Fabricating Wheel Hubs

[Rokcrln]

To read the original thread and discussion on this topic go here- LINK


I thought I might change things up a bit and show you how I built the inner wheel tub covers for my Tahoe. I posted a few pics last night in the built thread and had a few guys PM me questions on how it was done. That got me thinking that maybe more people would like to see the process. For me this is second nature but for most this might be the first time seeing something like this. You can see more at Lazze Metal Dreams for some real cool tools and check out the free video gallery!

Ok I started with a piece of 198ga AKDQ sheet metal and drew out the rough shape of what I needed. I made the circle by placing a screw in the sheet at the radius point and using a tape and pencil I drew the line.



Next I placed the piece in front of the wheel tub to make sure it was correct and also so I could get a few measurements for my next step.



I then set up my Lazze Power bead roller with the male and female die's that I wanted (these two are not made for each other but with this machine being so adjustable you can do all kinds of cool things over the regular style bead roller) so I could start running the bead. What this combo of dies will do is form a nice round bead that is not as deep as if the dies matched. I wanted this for 2 reasons, first I do not have much clearance on the inside of my tubs and did not want the tire to touch if it was too deep. The second reason is when you roll a bead in metal it takes up metal from the surrounding area causing distortion in the sheet so this way I get a crisp bead with out warping the sheet very much.



Notice the red guide I have the right side of the sheet up against. The sheet follows this guide and that keeps the bead parallel to my edge so it is very important that your edge is perfect. I use a 2x48 belt sander to fine tune my edge otherwise any irregularity would be telegraphed into the bead.





Then I set the piece inside the wheel tub so I could scribe a line showing me where to trim. You want to be very exact at this to end up with a tight fit for welding.



After it was trimmed I laid my template for the suspension cut out over the piece and marked it using a divider so I could get a parallel line 5/8" of an inch away that would end up being my floor return lip when all was said and done.



I then trimmed on my new line and set the bead roller up with a new combination that would allow me to roll a 90* edge on the sheet since this can not be done in a brake due to not being strait. You can do this is several pieces and then weld them together but I am sure you agree this looks much cleaner and takes far less time. This took 1 1/2 hours and that was from layout to tack welding it in place.



After the first of 4 runs through the bead roller. Notice how the edges start to deform. This is because any time you bend a curved edge you will ether end up with too much metal *(inside curve) or not enough metal (*out side curve) and all this will be dealt with in the shrinker and stretcher.



After the second pass you can really start seeing the lip deform.



Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

Between passes 2 & 3 I had to use my shrinker to straighten out the edges before moving on.





Kind of a bad pic but it shows the last pass through the bead roller.



Then after about 2 minutes with a hammer and dolly to fine tune the edge it was ready for install.



Here is the finished product ready for final welding.



[IMG][http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/data/1093/tub17.jpg[/IMG]



Here is a bonus pic of a small (1/2 scale) roadster pick up I am building for my son. This was built using a lot of the same process I just went through for the wheel tubs plus much more. It will have a bed, hood with sides and a tube chassis. I have not decided if it will be powered or not, we will see down the road.



Kevin
LFD Inc.