Starting issues after reaching operating temperature

[Bubba Aaron]

Turns not ales sorry
Posted via Mobile Device

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by Bubba Aaron

Correct 68 gmsee. Like the starter ales a half turn n that's it then just clicks after that
Posted via Mobile Device

Okay. So it does make a sound and tries to turn but you didn't answer whether it stays running normally if you don't shut it off.

Couple more questions.

When it cools off and you try to restart does it crank over normally or very slowly like it's struggling?

Did you check the voltage between neg and pos at the battery while it's running for the 13.5 to 14.5 +/- vdc?

[CC69Rat]

BA - check out this post when you have time.

NoNeck is my dad.

My GMC had a similar issue going on. He found the problem to be a resistor wire still left in the wiring harness. Has your truck been converted to HEI? Maybe your resister is the problem like mine?

PM dad if you want. He figured mine out and still has the pictures / parts he removed. It was pretty crazy.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=524926

[Bubba Aaron]

Yes the starter makes a sound and turns like a half a turn then stops then just clicks after that. but doesn't turn over. And yes it's stays running on its own. And yes when it cools it starts normaly it doesn't struggle. And no I haven't checked the Voltage between the neg and positive on the battery.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Bubba Aaron]

@ cc69rat is has msd pro billet distributer with a 6al ignition box n msd coil
Posted via Mobile Device

[CC69Rat]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=471270

Here's the resistor wire post..

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by Bubba Aaron

Yes the starter makes a sound and turns like a half a turn then stops then just clicks after that. but doesn't turn over. And yes it's stays running on its own. And yes when it cools it starts normaly it doesn't struggle. And no I haven't checked the Voltage between the neg and positive on the battery.
Posted via Mobile Device

It sure sounds like either the starter is breaking down or other electrical problem. I think at this point, you may have to do some easter egging.

I would start by rigging up some way to keep heat off the starter first. Maybe a piece of sheet metal. Then maybe use some compressed air (can) to cool the starter after the truck gets warmed up to operating temp. to see if it starts quicker.

Next, for funnsies, I would:

1. have the battery load tested.
2. Replace the battery cables if they're old and ensure the ground cable to the block has good metal to metal contact.
3. Maybe try a different starter. There's a lot of vehicles running with headers and don't have any problems so it may be worth a try.

[SS Tim]

I'm still thinking your ground path is not up to the rated load of the starter. If you only went to the frame for a ground you are depending on some metal to metal contact in the drive line or maybe if it is there a light engine ground to body strap. Grounding the battery negative cable to clean points on both the body and the engine are the best way. Adding a cable to the frame is a good idea as well.

[dracula4999]

Im with everyone else, i think it is your starter. I go thru about 1 starter a year on my truck cause it sits too close to the header, and i dont drive the truck that much either. You may also have your timing advanced too far. if i read right you have a msd box and distributor. Do you have a relay wired in for the box or distributor? The reason i ask is if you dont they can give you problems too if they arent getting a full 12 volts. I dont know if maybe they are pulling too much juice and your starter wont work on less voltage when its hot, i guess i could happen. My truck doesnt have a relay, and when i hooked up my 6al box and pro billet distributor my truck would die everytime i hit the brakes, or turned on the heater or headlights because they were pulling voltage away from the coil. I can run just the box, or just the distributor without the relay but not both together.

[502ms]

I agree with dracula - if the starter is getting heat soaked, it may be harder to start after a while. You can also put a heat shield around it to keep the heat from preventing starting

[68gmsee]

Seems to me that if the timing is that far advanced to keep the engine from turning over when hot, it would struggle some to start even when the engine is cold.

[kwmech]

Still hasn't answered about the condition of his cables or battery. OR even if he has moved the ground cable back onto the engine block. The best starter around isn't gonna work with crap hooking it up

[GMC Canuck]

If you have access to an amp clamp it will tell you in a hurry whether the problem is electrical or mechanical. If the amp draw is high, the starter is trying but can't turn. The headlight trick is a good indication of this but headlights dimming could also be a bad connection. Another good tell of excessive current draw is if the starter is pulling several hundred amps the cables are likely to be warm. If you have low current draw, you have an electrical problem. Whether it's a bad starter or bad connection, tracing through with a volt meter will pinpoint where the problem is.

The starter on my truck was giving me grief a couple of weeks ago. The headers cooked the starter solenoid. It acted just like a dead battery. Sometimes cranking over real slow, sometimes just clicking, sometimes nothing. Had the solenoid rebuilt and it works like new again.

[SS Tim]

Well said! Keep it up there are always electrical questions here.

[hjewell2]

I dare say it is heat soak after you shut it off. try a 160* T-stat if you do not have one in already. 14* to 16* initail is normal for spicy motor what is the LSA and duration for the cam Maybe you can back it off tad. I myself never worry about initail I check for total advance 36*@ 3000 rpm. Does it crank over or does it ring the flywheel and not rollover when at this heat soak period. my LT1 motor is 11-1/2 with pop up pistons. when it hits the
90* mark its gets cranky (LOL) I know to let it set for an hour before restarting. At the racetrack I use fans to cool the engine bay between runs. Hope this helps.
__________________

[FlounderGDI]

It sounds a lot like my truck when I was having timing issues. When it hit 200 degrees the truck wouldn't restart. I played with the timing and finally got it dialed it right and now I have no problems.

One thing to try is when it's heat stalled, unhook the plug from the HEI distributor and try cranking over. If the timing is off then the engine will crank like normal when the distributor is unhooked. If it doesn't then you have other issues. You should also have your battery checked. The battery on my truck would start the engine once but when the truck warmed up it wouldn't. It might be weak and not be able to produce enough amperage to turn the engine over when it's warm.