To brace or not to brace

[72tutone]

I have read several you should and is not needed posts in regards to welding the cab together when doing rocker panel/cab supports etc.
What seems to be the definitive answer? My cab is on the frame, and is not coming off, which leads me to my next question.
I need to replace the following on both sides; both front and rear cab supports, the rocker panel outer, b pillar's and a pillars. In addition the cab mounts are shot.
I should start by putting the cab mounts on first? that whay the cab is shored up on where its going to ride for hopefully along time.
Next cab supports? and then inner to outer?

[67c10rustbuket]

I did NOT brace my cab while doing these repairs on my truck and my driver door fits better than it did before. However I will likely brace mine on the pass side in a couple places: front pillar to rear pillar, and cab corner to floor. This would eliminate a lot of head scratching and measuring. But it will get in the way when doing the repairs.

As far as the order: cut out the old and start at the farthest part you have to replace: cab supports,floor pans & outer floor, kick panel, A pillar, B pillar, rocker, cab corner. That is my procedure anyway. I did not replace the cab mounts yet because my supports were in good shape. My cab is also on the frame while doing the repairs.

[72tutone]

Thanks, for the input. Has anyone else replaced their rockers and braced or not braced their cab? I know more folks have done this.

So my other question remains unanswered.
Should I replace the cab mounts first? Again I hate to assume however it seems like it would make sense to have the cab where its gonna sit.
Please correct me if im wrong

[cdowns]

if you dont brace you can always just say "darn i should have braced it b4 i did it"

[PBFAB.COM]

I would recommend bracing the cab when doing extensive sheet-metal repair. It DOES help keep it fromt moving.

BUT.... the real key is to make sure you fit your doors up during the replacement of rockers/floor pieces/lower a-pillar etc. to check fitment. It will be a little extra work putting the door on and taking it back off to check, but a whole lot easier than doing all the work, only to find out the door fits like crap and having to cut it all up again.

Nate

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

I would recommend bracing the cab when doing extensive sheet-metal repair. It DOES help keep it fromt moving.

BUT.... the real key is to make sure you fit your doors up during the replacement of rockers/floor pieces/lower a-pillar etc. to check fitment. It will be a little extra work putting the door on and taking it back off to check, but a whole lot easier than doing all the work, only to find out the door fits like crap and having to cut it all up again.

Nate

Yep! you would be amazed how much the cab corner/rear pillar moves once you slice the cab corner off! And as Nate (porterbuilt) said fit the door throughout the process. I put my door on and off several times throughout the process to make sure that it lined up well and closed properly. I should have braced it like I said in the first post and I will brace it when I get on the passenger side. I was not recommending to not brace it I was just sharing my "lesson"

[turp mcspray]

I have never braced a pickup cab, and have never had any alignment problems. To me, the only way to do it is with doors installed. That way you know everything will fit.