ac condenser??

[86c20]

how are are they to replace? the one in my 85 k30 has a leak so it needs to go. is there anything i should know?

thanks, mike

[chengny]

Not too bad to R&R. GMC shop manual procedure:


REMOVE OR DISCONNECT


1.Battery ground cable.
2.Discharge the system.
3.Grille assembly.
4.Radiator grille center support.
5.Left grille support to upper fender support (2) screws.
6.Condenser inlet and outlet lines, and the outlet tube at the right end of the condenser.
CAUTION: Cap or plug all open connections.



7.Condenser to radiator support screws.
8.Bend the left grille support outboard to gain clearance for condenser removal.
9.Condenser assembly by pulling it forward and then lowering it from the vehicle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT


1.New condenser.
CAUTION: Add 30 ml (1 ounce) of clean refrigeration oil to a new condenser.



2.Left grille Support.
3.Radiator support screws.
4.Condenser inlet and outlet lines.
CAUTION: Use new seals (O-rings) coated with clear refrigeration when connecting refrigerant lines.



5.Left grille support to the upper fender support screws.
6.Radiator center support.
7.Grille assembly.
8.Battery ground cable.


If you don't feel like tearing the grill and radiator support apart, just drain and pull the radiator (push the shroud back) and remove the condenser from inside the engine compartment.

[DetroitIron]

I have a plow rack which makes taking the grill apart a nightmare...the last sentence from chengny is very spot on about taking the radiator out is the way I just did mine. for what its worth

[crazeetxn]

+1 on chengny. Had to take my grill, condersor, and radiator off to get to the harmonic balancer one time. Piece of cake.

[88Jimmy4x4]

Originally Posted by 86c20

how are are they to replace? the one in my 85 k30 has a leak so it needs to go. is there anything i should know?

thanks, mike

its easy, 2 bolts top and 2 bolts bottom once grille is removed and grille mounting brackets......did mine 2 weeks ago. You will need new o-rings for the lines....get the green ones

[86c20]

sorry guys i am not up and the ac names. i need the one on the fire wall. i thought that was the condenser. must be the evaporator??? and was told a new dryer too can i ask why? thanks and sorry for my mistake. later, mike

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by 86c20

sorry guys i am not up and the ac names. i need the one on the fire wall. i thought that was the condenser. must be the evaporator??? and was told a new dryer too can i ask why? thanks and sorry for my mistake. later, mike

Originally Posted by 86c20

sorry guys i am not up and the ac names. i need the one on the fire wall. i thought that was the condenser. must be the evaporator??? and was told a new dryer too can i ask why? thanks and sorry for my mistake. later, mike

The Evaporator is fairly easy to replace. Install a Variable Orifice Valve at the same time.

You need a new drier any time you crack open an AC system or have a leak because moist air quickly saturates the desiccant pak. You should wait to remove the seals and install the new drier just before you vac the system down.

Once the system is sealed crack the high side port and blow a dry inert gas like Nitrogen, CO2, or Argon through the sealed system from the low side port. Blow it through for a couple minutes to sweep out most of the moist ambient air. This should keep the oil and drier from absorbing too much moisture. It'll make your vacuum pump happier too.

Updating to R134.
You will want to make sure that there is a High Pressure cutout switch installed and that the High and Low Pressure Cutouts are set up for R134 pressures.
You can get away with cutting off the collars and replacing the flexible portion of the lines with new barrier hose and new crimp collars.
Every O ring in the system will need to be updated to R134 spec.
You'll also want to flush the R12 oil out of the lines and condenser (unless you upgrade the condenser).
Installing a high efficiency parallel flow condenser will keep the vent temps down when idling.
Drain and refill the compressor with a full charge of Ester oil. Ester won't have a conniption over the dregs of R12 mineral oil left in the system and it's less hygroscopic than PAG oil. Don't burn the old mineral oil. It probably still has some R12 trapped. You do not want to breathe Phosgene gas.