Cue-Ball's 1980 SWB

[Cue-Ball]

I used McGaughy's 2.5" drop spindles and cut half a coil off my stock springs. However, I'm not sure *which* stock springs I have. My truck was originally a 6-cyl and was swapped to a V8. I don't know which springs are in there or if they were ever replaced in the last 30 years. I'm pretty sure I'm going to cut another half coil off to drop the front another inch or so. Also need to remove the bumpstop and metal bracket from the rear to give me some more suspension travel since the back end tends to bottom out on large bumps.

[Cue-Ball]

A couple of small updates on my truck.

For a while now I've suspected that my catalytic converter was beginning to clog. When I bought the truck the carb was messed up and it was running VERY rich, which tends to kill catalytic converters in short order. Also, I had a set of headers that I had bought for my Camaro but that I knew would fit the truck and maybe unleash a bit more power (and hopefully mileage). So, I took the truck and headers down to a local exhaust shop. I had them install the headers, replace the cat, and make a new Y-pipe (it's still a 2-into-1). They charged me and arm and a leg, and even after using copper gaskets the truck had terrible exhaust leaks. I took it back to them two days later. After spending another day at the shop it STILL had leaks. I finally just decided to fix it myself (which I should have done in the first placed and saved several hundred bucks).

Today I replaced the copper gaskets with a set of Percy's "dead soft" aluminum gaskets. It took me about an hour and a half to complete both sides and was an easy job except for the rearmost bolt on the passenger side. There's just very, very little room in there for a wrench, even with the headers only have 1.5" primaries. I'm still hearing an exhaust leak, but I think it's at the collectors now and that the head-to-header seal is fixed (or at least a heck of a lot better). They look good and clear the frame and body easily. Rather than painting or Jet Hot coating, I've coated them with graphite spray. This is the first time I've tried this, but I've heard a lot of good about it. It's basically the same thing the concours restoration guys do, but they use a product called Calyx. This is the same thing but in a spray can instead of a tub. We'll see how it holds up. I also installed a set of Moroso wire separators that I bought a long time ago. They should keep the wires away from the hot pipes and just basically clean up the engine bay a bit. I like these ones because they're simple, inexpensive, and work really well. I'm not a fan of the chunky billet aluminum separators. These pics are terrible, but the light wasn't real great in my garage.


Once I got the headers fixed (sorta) I decided to make a run to the wrecking yard about 20 miles from my house. When I was there last time I thought I saw some door panel inserts that I could use. I also wanted to take a look at how the round headlights attach on the 79-80 trucks, because the core supports and/or lower valence seems to be different from the earlier trucks. I got down there and the door panel inserts wouldn't work. The truck they were on had power windows and mine has manual. Another truck had the same parts but they were beat up beyond usability.

However, I did finally manage to find a stock air cleaner. It's a bit beat up and rusted, but still usable. I'll just have to get it blasted and then paint it.


I also found a replacement driver's side seat belt, since mine is quite worn. The fabric of the belts is starting to fray from use. Unfortunately, despite looking the same at first glance, the replacement I spent time and energy to pull is quite a bit different. Chevy must have changed somewhere around 1981, because the buckle is totally different than mine. My stock '80 belt on the left and the replacement (from a >'80 truck) on the right.


Once I realized that it wouldn't fit, I was at least hoping to use the plastic pieces that cover the shoulder bolt. But that piece is different too, and the covers from the new belt won't fit my older one. Again, mine on the left and the newer model on the right.


So, it was a bit of a crapshoot today. I got the header gaskets changed out without much fuss, but there's still a leak somewhere (driver's collector, I think). I ended up with a replacement air cleaner, but it will need a lot of work before I can use it and the seatbelt I bought won't work. Two steps forward, one step back.

I think I've decided not to use the aluminum slot wheels for now. I really like them, but I can't find center caps that bolt on like the originals. I've found a couple, but they don't fit. So, those holes will need to be filled. Then the wheels need polished. I finally got a routine down that works well, but it's no use bothering until they're welded. I really need to get new tires soon, so these wheels will have to go on the shelf until summer. My plan now is to use the stock rally wheels that I've got. However, the edges have a little rust and they could all use a fresh coat of paint. So what I'm going to do is buy two more and freshen them up (maybe blasted and powder coated, if I can get it done cheaply). Then I'll put new tires on those two wheels and mount them, freeing up two more to do the same. That way I have no down time with the truck while the wheels are getting painted/coated.

[Low Elco]

Cue, search "slot mag" on eBay., there's two guys one in wa and one in ca that kinda specialize in such things. Give em a shout be four you give up. I'll sic jonboy on ya if you quit!
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[Cue-Ball]

Oh, I'm not giving up. I still would like to put the slots on there eventually. But I just don't have the time or cash to do them justice right now. My Camaro project just came home so all of my spare time and money will be going into that. I simply can't afford to shell out a couple hundred bucks to have someone weld and/or polish the slots. It's times like this I wish I had a TIG welder at home. But since I don't, they're going to have to sit on the shelf for a bit longer. I'm pretty sure I can get four rallies sandblasted and painted for well under a hundred bucks total, so that's the way I'm probably going to go - at least for now. I desperately need to get new tires on the truck, and the rallies seem like the quickest and cheapest way to get me where I need to be.

[Cue-Ball]

As I said in my last update, I decided to go with rally wheels for now. Instead of having them blasted and painted, I had them blasted and powder coated. The price was about the same and the powder coat should hold up much better to tire machines and brake dust. I bought two wheels off Craigslist and had them powder coated in silver metallic. The color is similar to stock, but the metallic gives it some extra pop in the sunlight. Having two extra wheels will allow me to put on two new tires at a time and not have the truck out of commission during the powder coat process. I shopped around for prices and ended up having the wheels done at Les Schwab. They send everything out to be done and it takes a week turnaround time. It's not a great powdercoating job, but it's good enough for my truck. There are still glass beads stuck in the wheel crevice, but they're not readily apparent once the beauty ring is on, so I'm okay with it, I guess. I could have probably gotten a perfect job by paying a bit more, but live and learn. Here's a pic of one of the newly refinished wheels next to one of my originals.

Now you know why they call them beauty rings! Without 'em the wheels are hideous! :-)

I also refinished two of the center caps to go on the freshly powdercoated wheels. They didn't turn out perfectly, but they look a whole lot better than before. I basically shined up the chrome with steel wool, primed and painted the base of the cap and bolts with argent silver spray paint, and redid the sticker in the center using spray paint and model paints. The bow ties don't look as good as I'd like, and the center caps themselves are starting to bubble where rust is forming, but I refuse to buy replacements. Hundreds of dollars for some chrome center caps is highway robbery. These will be plenty good enough for a daily driver truck like mine.


In preparation for putting on the freshened up wheels and new tires, I bought a pair of wheel spacers for the rear of the truck. One thing that has always bothered me about these trucks is how narrow the rear end looks in comparison to the bed. It makes it look like it's got a big, fat ass and skinny little chicken legs. I bought some aluminum 1.5" spacers off eBay and what a HUGE improvement. It's only an inch and a half difference but the visual change is dramatic. Honestly, I think this change did almost as much to improve the stance and look of the truck as lowering did. Here are before and after shots to compare.



The rear wheels no longer look so sunken in to the truck. And from the rear it takes on a much "meatier" appearance, even though the tires are stock sized. It should improve even further once I put a set of 255/70s on there. Even with wider tires it doesn't look like there's much chance of rubbing. Seems to be plenty of clearance.

[Jonboy]

I was a little apprehensive about running my slots without caps at first, but the look has grown on me. I am pretty lucky that they are push through rather than screw on, though. I forgot what a PITA mag lug nuts are too. The rally wheels will look good on the truck too.

In the mean time, I got sucked into your Camaro build thread. I agree with your choices 100%, especially the audio system. When it is all back together, it is going to be spot on. Nice job!

[Dusty4x4]

Nice build...

[Gordonr1973]

Looks really good with the spacers on.

One thing I saw someone on the forum do to hide the glass chips and little rocks that get caught in the rim crease is to run a similar color small bead of silicone around the crease.

Might help but it is hard to see the glass beads in your rims --- I wouldn't notice them unless you had pointed it out.

[Cue-Ball]

New stance! New shoes!

Late last week I finally got my front two tires mounted. I'd been running around with two "new" wheels on the back and two old ones on the front for almost two weeks while I waited for my wheels to come back from powder coating. Once they were finished I got my front tires mounted. The cleaned up wheels and new tires helped the looks of the truck immensely. Not only that, but I think the old tires were even worse than I thought. As soon as I got the fresh front tires mounted, all of my sloppy steering issues, bumpsteer, etc. went away.

When I replaced my spindles a few months ago I noticed that the dust boots on both lower ball joints were torn. Actually, torn isn't the right word. They were DESTROYED. Even though the ball joints themselves seemed okay, I knew it was only a matter of time before the grit and grime that got in there chewed them up. So, this weekend I replaced all four ball joints. I had planned on replacing the upper and lower control arm bushings too, but simply didn't have time. I've still got the parts, so I can do it next year or something.

While I had the front end apart I cut another 3/8 coil off the springs (I'm at 7/8 coil total) and degreased and painted everything. Huge improvement in the looks department, but I'm a little regretful about cutting the springs. I think I should have only cut 1/8 to 1/4 instead. I like the way the front sits now, but it's got enough rake that I'm tempted to lower the rear end, which I really don't want to do. I only have a couple of inches of travel as it is, and really don't want to go lower and be riding on the bumpstops all the time.

I've got a couple of pics, but neither of them are very good. The lighting was poor and the rest that I took didn't turn out at all.

[Cue-Ball]

Originally Posted by Gordonr1973

Looks really good with the spacers on.

Thanks. I think it looks SOOOOO much better. I'm much more happy with the truck now, simply because of that little fix.

One thing I saw someone on the forum do to hide the glass chips and little rocks that get caught in the rim crease is to run a similar color small bead of silicone around the crease.

Might help but it is hard to see the glass beads in your rims --- I wouldn't notice them unless you had pointed it out.

The bead of silicone is a good idea. I think I have some good clear silicone in the garage.

The beads that are stuck in the crease aren't really that noticeable, especially with the beauty rings mounted on the wheels. You really have to be looking to see them. And the fronts turned out much better than the rears, since they were cleaner to begin with. I guess the blaster didn't have to spend as much time prepping them, so fewer beads got stuck.

[Low Elco]

Love the new stance! Looks great!
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[Cue-Ball]

Despite getting torrential rains, I actually managed to get a little work done on my truck this weekend. On Thursday my heater core started leaking. It's been on the way out for a while. I can always smell when the truck warms up. But it finally started full on leaking onto the carpet on Thursday. So on Friday I pulled the heater box and put in a new aluminum hater core. No more leak!

Thanks to the leak, my carpet was soaked with coolant. No big loss, since it was the original carpet and was pretty much disintegrating anyway. There was a big hole in the driver's side and the sound deadener was crumbling into dust. So today I took the opportunity to put in new carpet. I ordered it a while back, knowing that it would need done soon.

I pulled the seat, pulled the old carpet, and pulled the old jute and sound barrier. Put in a bunch of "poor man's dynamat". I actually picked up a big roll of this stuff about 5 years ago to quiet down a loud fuel pump in a Mustang I used to have. I had a bunch left over when I was done, but lining the truck probably used up 2/3rds of a roll.


I lined the rear of the cab too. I'll put the cover back on later. Just didn't want to do it in the rain.


I ended up going with charcoal carpet instead of the stock Carmine Red. I think it makes it look a lot better. The red pops now, instead of being so overpowering. And the carpet is a very close match to the color on the bottom of the doors and dash, so it blends in very nicely. I'm very pleased. Here's a before and after.

[N2TRUX]

Ireally like your budget build you have going. Its a clean looking truck and the changes you have made really enhanced the look. I have never been a big fan of the big 80 headlights, but I am changing my opinion slowly. Your truck really loos good like it is. Since your budget is limited, I would consider leaving the headlights like they are.

Heres some 80 Silverado inspiration for you.

[Low Elco]

Interior looks great!
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[Low Elco]

What is that mat, exactly?
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[Cue-Ball]

Thanks for the kudos, guys.

@N2TRUX: I've seen that Silverado on here before and really dig it. The square headlights have grown on me, and I really think they look good as long as the truck is clean and the chrome is shiny. Unfortunately, my headlight buckets are starting to rust/peel. I was able to get all of the pieces to switch over to round headlights for way less than it would cost to get my parts rechromed. Still not sure which way I'll go, but I'll probably keep both sets of parts on hand.

@Low Elco: The mat that I used is some sort of generic underlayment that I got from Lowe's or Home Depot years ago. I don't recall the brand name or even what it was called, but it was in the roofing section. It's a few mm thick of a soft, gooey material with reflective material on one side and adhesive on the other. I don't recall exactly what I paid for it, but it was *cheap*! I bought a huge roll of the stuff for under $40 (I think it was more like $25, but it's been years and I don't remember). It's not as good as name brand stuff, but for a loud truck that is mostly wind noise it works fine. Did I mention it was cheap? :-)