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07-04-2012, 01:28 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Chatsworth, CA
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LCA balljoint/castle nut question
Just installed some 2" drop springs to raise up the front a little from where the po had it. When I got started I noticed the castle nut wasn't threaded very far onto the driver's side spindle/lca balljoint (pics should show what I mean). Thought the po was just lazy and that I'd been lucky driving around with the balljoint not completely seated. Happened to finish up the passenger side first and was actually amazed how easy it was. Thought I was just about done when I was lifting the jack to seat the balljoint, but even after banging on my spindle like I was trying to get it off, I couldn't get the castle nut on any further than the po had it. I'm wondering first off, why not? Second, how serious of an issue is this? And third, should I just get a new balljoint? It seems fine otherwise, and when on the road I couldn't notice it.
Here's a pic for reference of the passenger side (good one) and the drivers side (not completely seated). Thanks Ezzz |
07-04-2012, 11:09 AM | #2 |
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Location: Mustang, Oklahoma
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Re: LCA balljoint/castle nut question
Looks like the first pic the castle nut is actually on way too far, The cotter pin should go through the hole when aligned to one of the recesses in the nut as opposed to above it.
The second pic looks normal to me. I am guessing you have a mismatched set of ball joints, the 67-70 have a different taper than the 71+73+. What year is the truck, the frame, the control arms. What suspension crossmember does it have, is it 5 lug or 6 lug. More info is needed to determine what is wrong here.
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Dan <---(my name) 67 SWB C10 project "GEORGIA"-59 Brookwood 2dr wag...Next project-03 Tahoe 4x4 5.3 family ride-07 Hondur Accord, commuter car |
07-04-2012, 11:24 AM | #3 |
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Re: LCA balljoint/castle nut question
Here is a pic of mine during tear down, the cotter pins are removed and you can actually see light through the hole in the top one. If you look real close you can also see the hole aligned with the castle nut on the bottom also. Im guesstimating about a 1/4" of ball joint thread should be above the castle nut. Note how the hole lines up to the recess in the castle nut. See the proper depth of the ball joint through the nut this should be the proper seated depth. And this would be a pretty big safety concern as one of the ball joints may fail and cause a big problem. Hope this helps and sorry I don't have any clean reassebly pics...yet
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Dan <---(my name) 67 SWB C10 project "GEORGIA"-59 Brookwood 2dr wag...Next project-03 Tahoe 4x4 5.3 family ride-07 Hondur Accord, commuter car |
07-04-2012, 05:09 PM | #4 |
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Re: LCA balljoint/castle nut question
Something is not right on that installation. Maybe put some washers under the nut so you can torque it up and install the cotter pin correctly. Or replace the ball joint with the correct one.
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07-04-2012, 05:11 PM | #5 |
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Location: Chatsworth, CA
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Re: LCA balljoint/castle nut question
Thanks for the info. Guess it makes sense the cotter pin should go through the recessed part of the nut.
Not sure of all the specifics of the truck. Lost the po's number when my phone broke, but he listed it as a 69 and that matches that slip pasted to the inside of the dash. Found out the drop spindles are made by cpp. So if the ball joints are different and not necessarily broken or messed up, does that mean it should be alright? Or will the suspension geometry or things like that be slightly off with different parts on each side? |
07-05-2012, 01:01 PM | #6 |
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Re: LCA balljoint/castle nut question
I would replace the ball joints because disk brake spindles use different ball joints than the drum brake spindles. I assume the PO put the new CPP spindles on and left the original ball joints. The ball joints have a different taper and are probably the cause of the ball joint going farther through the spindle.
There is a CPP rep on here i think cppjeff ? contact him or call CPP direct to ask which ball joints they recommend with your spindles. I will see if I can find him on here.
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Dan <---(my name) 67 SWB C10 project "GEORGIA"-59 Brookwood 2dr wag...Next project-03 Tahoe 4x4 5.3 family ride-07 Hondur Accord, commuter car |
07-05-2012, 01:07 PM | #7 |
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Re: LCA balljoint/castle nut question
I PM'ed CPPJEFF so Hopefully he can tell you which ball joints to use and if they are indeed the wrong ball joints currently on your truck.
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Dan <---(my name) 67 SWB C10 project "GEORGIA"-59 Brookwood 2dr wag...Next project-03 Tahoe 4x4 5.3 family ride-07 Hondur Accord, commuter car |
07-05-2012, 02:02 PM | #8 |
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Re: LCA balljoint/castle nut question
Thanks Dan, really appreciate it.
Got a notch kit on the way from CPP, so I guess this is a good time to get all these issues sorted while the trucks parked. Thanks again Ezzz |
07-05-2012, 02:25 PM | #9 |
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Re: LCA balljoint/castle nut question
These guys are right about the ball joint. Now is the time to make it right.
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07-05-2012, 02:26 PM | #10 |
67-72 parts collector,…
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Mid-MO
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Re: LCA balljoint/castle nut question
Your balljoints and outer tie rods HAVE to match the year of drop spindle you purchased.
They will be either: 1) 60-62 2) 63-70 3) 71-72 4) 73-87
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Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823 |
07-05-2012, 03:01 PM | #11 |
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Location: Chatsworth, CA
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Re: LCA balljoint/castle nut question
Got it, balljoints will be replaced. And I should check to make sure tie rods are the same? I'm assuming I have a 69 frame and related suspension components, but how can I check if my spindles are 63-70 or 71-72?
Thanks |
07-05-2012, 03:08 PM | #12 |
67-72 parts collector,…
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Re: LCA balljoint/castle nut question
What part number spindle did you order?
I see in the first picture that they are CPP spindles.
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Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823 |
07-05-2012, 03:14 PM | #13 |
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Re: LCA balljoint/castle nut question
Didn't order them myself. They were on the truck when I bought it.
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