Project "Captain Insano"

[suspect]

got the c notches in. wrestling the frame around is a bit tough, but worth it to be able to work from the side or on top. i'm going to leave it where it's at now because i'll need to tip it up again so i can cut or drill out some large holes through the upper bag mounting area for the rear, through the c notch and 2 layers of frame (this isn't going to be fun).
i mocked up the lower control arms with the bags and upper plates bolted on. i raised it up, held it with a C-clamp, and marked where to drill the plate bolt holes. there's not much room as you can see, so i used a small rod with a very sharp point ground into it and tapped it just enough to mark it. then removed all of it and remarked my holes with a punch. marking with a punch is important so your drill won't walk on you when you start. (and that crossmember is tough to drill through) i stepped down 3 bit sizes. started with a 1/8" to 1/4" to 7/16". doing this makes it a little tougher on the larger bits, but makes it much easier. i resharpend bits every other hole.
i just have a cheap grinder from harbor frieght. the motor isn't all that powerful for grinding big stuff or with lots of pressure, but it's perfect for sharpening drill bits and deburring edges.

[king-918]

Originally Posted by suspect

got the c notches in. wrestling the frame around is a bit tough, but worth it to be able to work from the side or on top. i'm going to leave it where it's at now because i'll need to tip it up again so i can cut or drill out some large holes through the upper bag mounting area for the rear, through the c notch and 2 layers of frame (this isn't going to be fun).
i mocked up the lower control arms with the bags and upper plates bolted on. i raised it up, held it with a C-clamp, and marked where to drill the plate bolt holes. there's not much room as you can see, so i used a small rod with a very sharp point ground into it and tapped it just enough to mark it. then removed all of it and remarked my holes with a punch. marking with a punch is important so your drill won't walk on you when you start. (and that crossmember is tough to drill through) i stepped down 3 bit sizes. started with a 1/8" to 1/4" to 7/16". doing this makes it a little tougher on the larger bits, but makes it much easier. i resharpend bits every other hole.
i just have a cheap grinder from harbor frieght. the motor isn't all that powerful for grinding big stuff or with lots of pressure, but it's perfect for sharpening drill bits and deburring edges.

How low should the rear sit with just
a c-notch in the rear? As in will it frame the truck or how much clearance
will you have when aired out
Posted via Mobile Device

[suspect]

Originally Posted by king-918

How low should the rear sit with just
a c-notch in the rear? As in will it frame the truck or how much clearance
will you have when aired out
Posted via Mobile Device

i'm not sure how far off the ground i will be when aired out. i've looked at alot of pictures to get an idea. different factors play into it like wheel/tire size, bump stops in notch, cups mounted on bags, etc. i know you can get it low enough to were the differential will stick through the bed an 1" or 2". i'm going with a wood bed, so i'm not sure if i want to go through the bed just yet for an 1". i'll have 20's for wheels. i think i'll get it pretty low.

[king-918]

Originally Posted by suspect

i'm not sure how far off the ground i will be when aired out. i've looked at alot of pictures to get an idea. different factors play into it like wheel/tire size, bump stops in notch, cups mounted on bags, etc. i know you can get it low enough to were the differential will stick through the bed an 1" or 2". i'm going with a wood bed, so i'm not sure if i want to go through the bed just yet for an 1". i'll have 20's for wheels. i think i'll get it pretty low.

Was kind of thinking the same just wanted some more input
Posted via Mobile Device