HELP, Slamming the rear of my 66 on a budget.

[bird7263]

Ok my brothers, I need a little help here. I am wanting to slam the rear of my 66 short step. As of right now I have 3 inch lowering blocks and stock jeep TJ rear springs in the rear. I am about an inch from the rear axle hitting the frame. I have not C notched yet.

So here's what I am thinking. C notch the rear, throw in some drop coils along with the already lowering blocks and throw in the long adjustable track bar. My question to you fellas is. Do I need to buy lowering shocks or a shock relocation kit? Like the one Brothers sells. Will all of these components work together. I am going to get started on this real soon. And am going to take detailed pics and do a good thread on it.

I wanna be low!!

I was going to air ride the rear but I on a budget. I don't really care about going up and down with air. I just want to have the tail dragger style look. I will probably do a total of 3 inches maybe 4 up front.

and if any of you have these parts for sale, I am all ears!!!! And any pics of ideas and combos of this would be great.. Thanks all.

[Tx Firefighter]

Yes, you're gonna need lowering shocks or shock extenders to go that low.

Also, make sure you're rear bumpstops are either gone or trimmed real short.

But, overall, remember that the maximum you can possibly go lower is that 1 inch of space between your axle and frame currently. It will simply sit bottomed onto the frame without a c-notch.

Overall, it's a poor plan though. If you want real low static drop, get the proper springs or springs and lowering blocks and a c-notch along with shock extenders.

[bird7263]

Well that is that plan.. The c notch is here and ready to go in.. My question was what maybe what lowering coils and shock combo kit to go with. I have done several of these before but with out the use of the lowering blocks.

[66chevy PROSTREET]

c notch, 6" springs, 2" block, basic shock relocaters, adjustable panhard bar.

thats 8" of smooth drop pal, i rocked this setup for a while before bags with no problems, thats about as low as you could go with store bought stuff, unless u make yourself some bigger blocks,but your already kinda low


this is 8" static in the rear

it takes alot of work(and money) to get these trucks on the ground after these steps

[bird7263]

That is a sick ride bro. I have the 3 inch blocks so I guess I can squeeze an extra inch.. Did you have to do anything to your cross member?.. Drive line issues.. I already have new one piece in there..

[66chevy PROSTREET]

Originally Posted by bird7263

That is a sick ride bro. I have the 3 inch blocks so I guess I can squeeze an extra inch.. Did you have to do anything to your cross member?.. Drive line issues.. I already have new one piece in there..

nothin to the members or driveline, when you lay frame you have to mod the crossmembers, or if you go with a bigger c-notch than the regular CPP , or BROTHERS type.

[SCOTI]

Bags out back allow for 6" plus drops & then adjusting the ride height if you want to use the truck as a truck. They can also be done @ a comparable cost vs. dropped coils if set-up as a 'static' drop . ....

Firestone 224c (F-6873) air bags @ $75ea (6" or 7" bags, whichever you like better)
90° air bag fittings $5 (x2)
straight 'schrader' fittings $5 (x2)
DOT .250" airline $20 from Suicide Doors

So $190 for the big drop that's adjustable or about $120 for the same ride height & no adjustment. $70 to be able to use your truck as a truck while still getting low is pretty freakin cost effective.

As for shock brackets, you're ahead of the game because the 3" lowering 'blocks' lower the truck w/o affecting required shock length. You can modify the upper brackets allowing the shock bolt to be higher vs. the original hole (trimming the bracket & drilling a new hole is free). I know the pre-67 lower brackets are a little different vs 67-72's, but you might also be able to 'tweak' the earlier lower brackets for more travel (I know you can for the 67-72 lower bracket). You flip them upside-down & side to side w/some flattening & a little grinding. Combine the two mods & you'll gain ~ 3" of shock travel. It's the same thing as a $60 aftermarket 'shock relocation kit' for free. It's worth trying if you need the additional travel.

The c-notch & 'super track-bar' kits are a definite necessity.

[bird7263]

Scoti, so the air ride kit you are talking about. This is not an adjust on the fly thing.. Obviously there is no tank or compressor. But I see what you are saying.. you can find an air pump and adjust where you want it. Have you used this stuff? also. I am familiar about flipping over the 67-72 lower rear shock mounts. Well at least I have heard about it.. Do you know where there is any thread on here that might show that? And might show the adjustment on the top? Either way there is some work involved. Cause you have to pop the old rivets out on the top mounts, but hell if I can figure out a way to save money thats even better!! Thanks for the help.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bird7263

Scoti, so the air ride kit you are talking about. This is not an adjust on the fly thing.. Obviously there is no tank or compressor. But I see what you are saying.. you can find an air pump and adjust where you want it. Have you used this stuff? also. I am familiar about flipping over the 67-72 lower rear shock mounts. Well at least I have heard about it.. Do you know where there is any thread on here that might show that? And might show the adjustment on the top? Either way there is some work involved. Cause you have to pop the old rivets out on the top mounts, but hell if I can figure out a way to save money thats even better!! Thanks for the help.

Yes..... Although you're using bags for rear springs, in this configuration they would be considered a 'static' drop drop because there's no immediate means to adjust the height.

Yes..... This is the same set-up used on my 68 swb for 2yrs. After that, I started using my trailer more frequently. That required adding air in the darkness of the early mornings so I upgraded adding a tank, compressor, & manual controls to allow 'on the fly' adjustments. But, I only added air when I hooked up my 18ft trailer to tow another vehicle (try that w/6" dropped coils).

I have the shock brackets I modified but don't know of any 'how-to' threads that have been posted. I can prob put together an imprompto 'how-to' but would need some OE brackets for pics so it would take a few days. It's a bit of work (2-3hrs including figuring it out). Aftermarket relocators are about $60 bucks (simple R&R); but still require removal of the originals . . .....

[fleetman]

scoti has it all pegged.
i have a set up like he suggests on my 66 longbed. ( he did suggest it as a matter of fact).
firestone bags (no bag brackets)
1 1/2" lowering blocks
adj. panhard
no c notch
(work in progress)
ran the schraders out to fleetside license bracket holes. cool.
no brackets on the bags gives you additional drop also.
and oh yea... shock relocation for better shock travel and angulation.

[Rat66]

fleetman, I have a 66 longbed that I am looking at doing the exact setup you have. I am just trying to figure out exactly which parts I need to do it. Could you let me know which parts you got and where? I would also like to understand the bags with no brackets a little better. Do you have any pics?

What did you do in the front?

[fleetman]

hello rat
you are in the right place to have your questions answered.
start over in the suspension section.
do a seach there ... and type this in...
max bed wt

you will see a thread started by fleetman.
read it through... but near the end scoti supplied some links ( #16 response )- check these out and surf the suspension area you will find lots of info.
i got my bags from ridetech (firestone 6781) through a vendor here (you can get the bags, shraders, airline from same vendor).
in the front i am doing drop spindles and one full ring cut from a old stock spring ( which yields approximately another 2 " drop ).
bags in the rear offer a versatility that drop springs do not. they may be a little more maintenance and a few buck more than springs but if you want haul or tow.. they can give the best result.

[Dustin07]

yeah.... compressor(s), tank, switches.... there is more cost to it than just bags and a couple fittings. BUT I think its still the way to go. If you really want your truck slammed and plan on spending a LITTLE money on it now to do it.... just buy the parts and slowly acquire what you need to bag it. If you like a slammed truck you'll go with air eventually and end up spending more anyways lol

luckily I saved the two viair 480's off my '62, so I'm going probably just buy bags and redneck it for this summer. then go porterbuilt over the winter, personally.

[Rat66]

Thanks fleetman! I will check it out.

[BR3W CITY]

Don't get cheap sleeve bags, you'll end up permanently dragging the rear end around.


Why not just buy some good bags and fitting for the rear, and run the NPT->Schroeder valve so you can run them manually like the air shocks. That way you have good parts, and can add a compressor etc as time or budget allows.

You should be able to do the rear under a few hundred.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Don't get cheap sleeve bags, you'll end up permanently dragging the rear end around.


Why not just buy some good bags and fitting for the rear, and run the NPT->Schroeder valve so you can run them manually like the air shocks. That way you have good parts, and can add a compressor etc as time or budget allows.

You should be able to do the rear under a few hundred.

Exactly. I did the rear schrader set-up for less than $300. The addition of the compressors, air tank, & switches does allow on the fly adjustments (or allow you to 'play'), but it's not mandatory for the rear of these trucks.

More drop vs coils.
More load capacity vs. drop coils.
Adjustability vs. none w/coils.

Slightly more install effort vs coils (holes for air fittings) on extreme drops. Otherwise it's about the same amount of install effort w/mild drops.

Seems bags are a win-win...