600Hp, Which Radiator are you running?

[So.Cal.Super]

In tearing my truck apart I found the P/O put a 3 core instead of the 4 core back in the truck. Since the new engine will be well over the 500hp mark with A/C and driven almost daily with summer time temps getting over the 100 mark. I'm curious who is running what, I have read through a ton of threads on here but wanted to focus more on the built engine guys. I will be installing Wes's Dual electric fan set up and running a 160 stat and high flow water pump. Just debating on the 4 core stock vs Aluminum.

Thanks

[406 Q-ship]

To be honest......ditch the electric fan, the original heavy duty fan, fan clutch, fan shroud, and a good quality 180° t-stat is better that any electric fans. If you heart set on an electric fan set-up then you must switch to an aluminum rad (core on brass is just too restrictive to pull air through). I have always run the OEM stuff and thrown all the aftermarket cooling crap in the trash.

I have seen many early chevelles (limited radiator opening and not crossflow) with really big Big Blocks (like 555 and 572 with more than 700 hp) that use the Heavy Duty fan/clutch and fan shroud for an OEM big block car that run at 180° in heavy traffic at over 100° outside temp. So with all that in mind a OEM four core is added insurance but if the 3 core that is in really good shape it will get the job done, seal the radiator to the core support with taped foam insulation (makes sure all the air goes through the radiator). The fan should be place so the fan blade is half inside the shroud, placement is important! Believe it or not Autozone makes one of the better t-stats out there, I use a 180 myself but a 160° is OK too. How much base timing that you have in the engine will make a big difference in how hot this thing will run at idle, with a healthy cam it needs at least 12° up to 16° BTDC with a total of 38-42° (depends on the engine and how it is equiped).

My Chevelle out at Willow Springs road course in 110° outside air temp, running balls to the wall on the track with a 400 hp SB, a who knows where it came from 3 core rad and all I have detailed out here......190° - 200°

[trac209]

Personally I would stick to the electric fans. I really don't understand the hate for them? My truck makes an easy 400hp and with a oem Chevy celebrity fan and aluminum rad my truck will idle all day at 150 deg if I wanted it to. They are smaller and won't take your hand off when working on a running engine. My friends 9 sec nova makes over 1000 hp and he has the exact same fan with a smaller rad yet.
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[Pro Performance]

I think a single mechanical fan will outdo a electric fan, but two electric fans should perform better. The key is to make sure all air from the front of the truck hits the radiator, and can't escape by through large holes. You want to channel as much air as possible and force it through the radiator.

We have aluminum radiates we sell that are 4-core, with shroud and dual 14" electric fans. They are a direct bolt-in radiator with aluminum fan shroud. The setup runs $535 shipped to your door in the lower 48. This will have the integrated trans cooler if you are using that. You can plug if running an external one.

Travis

[1972RedNeck]

I would run a heavy duty clutch fan and throw something like THIS in front of the radiator.

But then again I sold my GMC to get a Ford so you might not want to listen to me.

[So.Cal.Super]

I already had an electric fan setup from Wes at Classic Heartbeat, I just never installed it because I didn't want to fry my stock Alt. His set up has the tight against the radiator fan shroud and two 1400 cfm fans.

With the 3 core, fan clutch, high flow W/P and 160 high flow stat I have gotten it up to 190 in the summer around here. I called and talked to a few Aluminum Rad dealers today, then I called and talked to Wes and settled on the 4 core brass to go with his fan setup. I'm keeping everything else as is. I figure I can always sell the 4 core and go Aluminum if need be.

406 Q-ship Your right on the fan needing to be setup correct with the shroud, mine was. I'm not sure on where timing on the new engine will be, the Cam will be healthy but I opted for more street D/D then Race. I will know timing after the dyno tune. I don't remember where I got my stat but it is a Robert Shaw High Flow. Most of the stores should sell them, I love them.

trac209 , big block or small?

Pro Performance, Thats a good price, I had not seen a 4 core Aluminum. Are those Made in the USA?

1972RedNeck..... We all make mistakes What ever it is you own, Enjoy it!

[into69z]

I am really impressed with the craftsmanship and performance of Entropy.....first saw it in use with the 48 hr Camaro build-car was run hard all day and never had an issue
1967 - 1972 Chevy Pickup Dual Fan Aluminum Radiator
$579.00

[71 super]

I just installed this past week a 383 (aluminum heads scat crank etc.) I replaced the the original 4 core radiator with a 4 core thickness -2 core aluminum radiator. The engine has a high flow aluminum water pump and stock 4 blade fan with a 195* thermostat. To date (engine install was finished last sunday evening), The engine has yet to reach anything higher than 198* I actually may have to drop the themostat to get a little temp into the engine. The truck will take its first road trip with a hard pull etc next week, but in my opinion a good radiator, shroud with stock type fan and water pump will eliminate problems later down the road if the electrical gremlins decide to bite.

[El Campo]

I have been wondering this same thing! Have a dyno proven 633 HP 535 BBC and looking for a radiator for it. No one really says that theirs cools over 600 except Griffin has a 2 core that has 1.5 inch tubes that will cool up to 800 horses but it is 700 dollars!!!

[So.Cal.Super]

71 super
I worked my Cast Iron Heads, I'm sure that holds a bit more heat then the Aluminum. Electrical Gremlins I'm not worried about, rewiring the truck, new alt and Battery. I hope that kills them all. Let us know how your hard pull goes.

Question if your at 198 with a 195 stat you want to drop the stat to get the engine warmer?


El Campo , I think Be Cool makes one also. but it's up there also.


When this is back together, by mid next month I hope I will update this with idle temps and driving. I may just drag a boat up the grade for fun while i'm at it.

[trac209]

So Cal Super my truck is a small block my rad is from summit racing and it is good to 1000 hp. And I've seen them perform to those very claims. Check out their website the prices are good too.
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[Pro Performance]

No, I don't believe they are made in the USA. I do prefer USA made products, but considering the money, it is a good deal. THe USA made ones will generally cost more, so it all depends on your budget.

Many people have purchased these radiators and have been happy. The company is located in souther CA.

Travis

[derotoreut]

I am in the process of putting in a new aluminum radiator from Wizard Cooling. My truck also had a 3-core radiator, which wouldn't cut it for me. My engine is a brand new 383 stroker that was dyno tested at 465 HP/465 TQ.

I would call the owner Scott at Wizard Cooling at 716-655-6760. They are great people to work with. The radiators are made in the USA by them. They used dual SPAL fans on mine. I would highly recommend them.

[So.Cal.Super]

Nice looking setup, let us know how they work.

[VWBeamer]

One thought is just because you have more HP does not necessary mean you need a lot more cooling, unless your towing or driving high speeds.

In normal driving it's going to take about the same HP from your engine, no matter if you got the biggest Big Block or the smallest inline 6. It's going to take 20-25 hp to drive down the highway. In each case either engine is going to make roughly the same heat. The big block may make more because of more friction, but it is also a larger heat sink and able to radiate more heat.

Point is, your 600 hp engine will rarely be called to produce any where near 600 hp, and when it is called on to do so it will usually only be a few seconds.

[So.Cal.Super]

Originally Posted by VWBeamer

One thought is just because you have more HP does not necessary mean you need a lot more cooling, unless your towing or driving high speeds.

In normal driving it's going to take about the same HP from your engine, no matter if you got the biggest Big Block or the smallest inline 6. It's going to take 20-25 hp to drive down the highway. In each case either engine is going to make roughly the same heat. The big block may make more because of more friction, but it is also a larger heat sink and able to radiate more heat.

Point is, your 600 hp engine will rarely be called to produce any where near 600 hp, and when it is called on to do so it will usually only be a few seconds.

I agree You won't call on all that power often, and it will take about the same hp to move it down the road, but there is a lot more heat. thats why even in stock applications there are 2,3, and 4 core radiators.
there is a good article here
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...s/viewall.html

There are other things to factor in also, idle speed, a/c, compression ratio, all affect heat. you still have to design your system to accommodate the worst.
I was more curious what those who have these bigger engines are using that works.

And I will tow with it up some serious grades, I do drive it at 80mph on the freeway and I do have to sit in San Diego traffic on hot days.
I just want to cover all my bases.

[VWBeamer]

Yea I agree, just pointing out that just because you have 3 times the HP of a stock 350 does not mean you need 3 times the radiator

I agree it's better to have too much than not enough.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by VWBeamer

Yea I agree, just pointing out that just because you have 3 times the HP of a stock 350 does not mean you need 3 times the radiator

I agree it's better to have too much than not enough.

It is definitely better to have more cooling than not enough. I am also running a Vintage Air system with condenser in front of my radiator, so I want to be sure I have adequate cooling.