what to look for in a replacement engine?

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by dhughins

when using car-parts.com how do i search for multiple years? it won't let me past the first step without putting a year in.

with TBI would i need the computer? would i have to install a fuel pump in gas tank? anything else i would have to add or do?

You can't search multiple years on Car-Part, but it will give back the applications in multiple years that work. For TBI use '95 1500 series truck. For Vortec use '99 1500 series truck. For a late carbed 350 look at '86 Caprice. A not-bad 305 to have would be '87-88 Caprice. It uses the same roller cam shortblock and heads as an IROC Camaro, but it has a q-jet instead of Tuned Port.

Yes, you need a computer and harness with TBI. I would not recommend piecing that together without buying a running vehicle. Vans are a good source, the harness is long and is very stand alone (at least before the 4L60E transmission) and can be found with lower mileage. You could put a S10 Blazer tank out back or find an external pump and use the current tank. Stock TBI and Vortec motors will easily go 200,000 miles without a rebuild.

Also, to the comment on mechanical fuel pumps. It is true that some TBI engines have the block drilled for the pump rod, some do not. I don't think I have ever seen a Vortec that was. On a TBI motor, look at where the pump goes. If it is open, it is not drilled. If it has a block-off plate, it is. I do not see any reason, other than a restoration, to use pre-'86 small-block engines. The 1 piece seal engines and the center-bolt valve covers seal SO much better. They bolt right in the same place and use the same accessories. The only thing you have to watch is intakes on the middle bolts.

After reading more comments, it seems you don't have a good place to do an engine swap. That being the case, I might not recommend a fuel injection conversion at this time. But long term for a daily driver I fully believe I could buy a van, do the conversion, sell the old stuff and some van parts (doors, wheels, column, bumpers) and crush the van and have less than $1000 in it-especially if I could find a wrecked one.

[RPBurris]

I would still take some more time and a little money to diagnose the 305 before committing to replacing the motor. Once you start down the road of disassembly it is easy to get carried away and before you know it everything is blown apart and 15 years later you are just getting it back together. A good weekend of wrenching and that 305 can come back to life.

[magwakeenercew2jh]

Originally Posted by RPBurris

I would still take some more time and a little money to diagnose the 305 before committing to replacing the motor. Once you start down the road of disassembly it is easy to get carried away and before you know it everything is blown apart and 15 years later you are just getting it back together. A good weekend of wrenching and that 305 can come back to life.

It's impossible for me not to chime in here. RPBurris, as well as many of the other folks that have written, is a wise man with good advice.

I think if you take the facts into account, you'll agree.

1) You have another vehicle to drive
2) You don't have a good place to work on it - long term
3) You have ACTUAL budget constraints
4) I'm guessing you want to just "buy a 350, put it in, and drive it".

Let me testify right now. It simply does not work that way. Unless luck shines waaaay over reality, any 350 you find will need more work than you anticipate. I mean more $$$$$.

Think about laying on your back in a greasy junkyard under someone else's problem that died there in a bed of 50 weight. A nice day, huh? 122 degrees F., and begging someone for a
cherry picker so you can load the "new" 350, now looking like a filthy $400 octopus, into the back of your other clean truck....Ouch!

The 305 is in your rig now. And with some TLC, thought, paint, and sweat, you can probably end up cruising down the road in a couple of weekends.

Here are a couple of thoughts:

Before you pull the pan, drain the oil. Check the oil out. Maybe even send it off for a chemical analysis. It's REALLY cheap. But before you do that, take a compression test. Then change the oil filter.
Pour in the goop if you think that'll help, and drain it again. Another filter. Maybe even cut up the old filter to see any sparkly. Fill up with oil and run it. Oh, before you do that, mark the dist. and make sure it's seated by unbolting the
hold down bolt lifting it and pressing down to insure a solid fit in the oil pump drive.

So, after all this, maybe you'll have $100 bucks in her. Maybe she'll be a solid runner...Maybe not. But, at that point, you are very much less deep into your budget than getting an (even running) 350 that may fly apart in 165 miles....
Unless, of course, you really, really know the donor car. And, as I said, even if you do, I don't see a transplant happening in any less than a month and any less than a grand.....But that's just my (learned-the-hard-way) $.02.

Of course, if the real reason is that you "....just want a 350", then break out $1,500- $2,000 and buy a crate motor. No judgement there.

[OJ1988]

Yep, try and fix the 305 like most of us keep saying.

These old trucks take work, if you can't spend the tine and money, get another hobby.

Why do you have this truck? What do you want to do with it? Very important questions that need to be tackled.

If you can't spend time and money fixing it up, you may need to reconsider having it.

Like I said, I have a small budget as well and it has taken me 3 years and about $6000 to swap a 350 and rebuild the suspension and brakes, and all the odds and ends to make my truck a good reliable driver.
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[MARKDTN]

I just want to reply 1 more time. I agree with diagnosing what you have and fixing it. Get another cheap mechanical oil gauge and make sure you are losing pressure. If you are, put a pump and screen in it. The small-block is an extremely simple and durable engine. Drain the oil and look at it is a good idea, but to me no way I put any chemicals in. Just oil, that's it.

The only time I tried chemicals I got burnt. I bought a 318 to put in a Dodge pickup. I put a new timing chain and oil pump and screen. It was sludged up inside so I pressure washed it and when I got it running I put in some kind of cleaner. Followed all the directions and ran it until it was hot and shut it off and drained it. Gave it back to customer. Well a day later it came back with low oil pressure. All that sludge was trapped in the pickup screen. Lucky it didn't hurt it. After that, I don't do internal cleaning on used ones. That motor went at least another 50k miles before he sold it.

I disagree about junkyard engines generalization. Now if you have a yard with a lot of abandoned vehicles, then yes, some kind of driveline issue is a definite possibility. If they buy wrecks and burned cars, then you have more to work with. Everybody is scared of burned motors, but I have had good luck with several, and they are generally cheap. I had a guy tell me once "the harder it's wrecked, the better it was running when it happened". Unless something breaks, there is a lot of truth in that. I have installed upward of 50 junkyard engines from most makes. Of all those I had 2 bad ones. I had a 2.5 in a '87 Olds Cutlass Ciera that threw a rod on startup and I had an '88 Toyota Cressida with a cracked head. I always replace the timing belt or chain if practical and basic tuneup parts. On a V8 I replace the oil pump and screen too because it is cheap insurance and I can examine the rods for loose bearings.

Anyway, I got off track. Sounds like the OP should do more diagnostics before he does anything else.

[aggieguy713]

i found my trucks non stepside twin! haha. But seriously, look for the one that has the least issues and the best price, from $300-700, were not talking crate, so just look for one that sounds solid, or that has a good price.

[dhughins]

well i'm gonna take the pan off and check out the oil pick up and pump soon. I haven't been able to do anything (recovering from back problems). i'm hoping to be able to do it this weekend. gotta find me an engine lift 1st. my town doesn't have a rental shop, closet 1 is about 30 minutes away. With my back I might end up waiting a lot longer before loading and unloading a engine hoist.

i'll drain the oil and dissect the filter before i pull the pan. thinking i might install a electric oil pressure gauge after all is done.

Thanks for all the advice.

I have had a few projects that I took a apart and later regretfully sold in pieces. Hopefully this won't be another.

I really gotta do something about a garage or at least shed/workshop.

[soxplayer]

Since you are junking the 305. Go and get a half gallon of diesel fuel. Pour it in the oils filler and start the engine. Let it idle (no revving) until warm. Drain the oil. Put in new oil and a cheap filter. (Better filters are more likely to plug up) See if your oil pressure problem goes away. If it does you want to change the oil every 500 miles for a while. When you change the oil do it when the motor is warm and add the half-gallon diesel and let it idle for a few minutes before you pull the drain plug. Eventually the sludge will come out.

[dhughins]

I'm not junking the 305 yet. You must have posted before reading my last post. I'll keep this in mind if it ever comes to that.
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