from points to hei help?

[STP67]

Hey Guys what do i do with the old wires from the points distributor, ie the oil sending unit? 4.1 250 bare bones, the points distributor came part today (oem) so i'm wanting to put a hei in its place. just got it and can't wait to get it going. Thanks for any help

[LockDoc]

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Run a red 12ga wire from one of the "Ign Unfused" spade terminals in the fuse box to the "BAT" terminal on the HEI. Both ends of the wire will need a female spade terminal on it. For the time being I would just cut the ends off of the wires that went to the coil and put wire nuts on them until you make sure you don't want to go back to the points. One of them goes to the starter solenoid and the other one goes to the ignition.

Edit: Oh, and to the board
LockDoc

[STP67]

Thanks LockDoc, she's running good but i might need to move the timing one tooth to give me better clearence from the number one plug wire, when the idle smooth's out the pig tail plug is tight up against the plug wire, so i am thinking that it can only get better as i rotate the distributor counter clockwise.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by STP67

Thanks LockDoc, she's running good but i might need to move the timing one tooth to give me better clearence from the number one plug wire, when the idle smooth's out the pig tail plug is tight up against the plug wire, so i am thinking that it can only get better as i rotate the distributor counter clockwise.

That can be a problem sometimes.

LockDoc

[BadaSs_Cal]

Just out of curiousity, where did you plug the vac. Advance to? I got a hei from skip white and wanted to see what everyone else was doing. Thanks in advance.

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by STP67

Thanks LockDoc, she's running good but i might need to move the timing one tooth to give me better clearence from the number one plug wire, when the idle smooth's out the pig tail plug is tight up against the plug wire, so i am thinking that it can only get better as i rotate the distributor counter clockwise.

Refer to this thread from the engine forum FAQs on timing.
.....http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=290498

[PanelDeland]

Member "shifty" did a great write up on this.I couldn't find it in a quick search but it is in "krue's" index.It will allow you to make it look almost like the factory did it.

[19673ontree]

I see this all the time , and I guess it's just hard for me to understand ? I like my point's I have run points in every vehicle I ever owned and have yet to have a problem ? everybody hates points ? but why ?

[VetteVet]

Here is Shifty's write up from the FAQs, I missed the I-6 in the op.

........http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=148346

[ol'blu72]

I just replaced the wire to the coil with a 12g red from the bulkhead connector to the HEI.

[shok]

Originally Posted by 19673ontree

I see this all the time , and I guess it's just hard for me to understand ? I like my point's I have run points in every vehicle I ever owned and have yet to have a problem ? everybody hates points ? but why ?

I'm iffy on points myself ever since I had a ford ranchero with them. Car always seemed to run fine until it up and died. I discovered no spark and grabbed new points and condenser, popped them in and for the first time ever it was laying rubber left and right. I guess what I'm saying is points are great if you don't mind checking and adjusting them regularly, if you do mind then go electric and always be at the right setting.
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[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by ol'blu72

I just replaced the wire to the coil with a 12g red from the bulkhead connector to the HEI.

Don't shoot me if I'm wrong on this but I think that connection comes off of the ignition switch with a resistance wire. If so, you will not be getting a full 12 volts from it, you will be getting 6-8 volts. I'm not saying it won't work but if you are interested in high performance that's not going to be your best option. Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this...

LockDoc

[VetteVet]

Your right about the resistance wire from the key switch Doc, but the resistance doesn't start until the wire comes out of the engine side connector.
The resistance wire is shown in this pic below as the cloth covered wire in the top row.
IF a guy wanted to he could take the connector apart and remove the cloth wire and replace it with a 12 gauge red wire and go straight to the Bat terminal on the distributor.

[ol'blu72]

Yup thats what I did clipped the wire at that bulkhead terminal and slipped in a new wire with the NAPA part number 725145 bulkhead connector (it slips right in the terminal block there) I haven't taken the time yet to unwrap the harness and wrap the new wire in. I just ran the wire outside the harness. I will get it done soon tho.

Mine had a real makeshift job done. they had a power wire straight from the battery to a relay and ran the yellow coil wire to the relay to actuate it. It worked and had full 12V but it added a lot of unnecessary wiring and looked horrible.

Look at the link Vet put up thats what I went by. It is for a 6cyl but it is the same procedure.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Your right about the resistance wire from the key switch Doc, but the resistance doesn't start until the wire comes out of the engine side connector.
The resistance wire is shown in this pic below as the cloth covered wire in the top row.
IF a guy wanted to he could take the connector apart and remove the cloth wire and replace it with a 12 gauge red wire and go straight to the Bat terminal on the distributor.

Attachment 966881

Originally Posted by ol'blu72

Yup thats what I did clipped the wire at that bulkhead terminal and slipped in a new wire with the NAPA part number 725145 bulkhead connector (it slips right in the terminal block there) I haven't taken the time yet to unwrap the harness and wrap the new wire in. I just ran the wire outside the harness. I will get it done soon tho.

Mine had a real makeshift job done. they had a power wire straight from the battery to a relay and ran the yellow coil wire to the relay to actuate it. It worked and had full 12V but it added a lot of unnecessary wiring and looked horrible.

Look at the link Vet put up thats what I went by. It is for a 6cyl but it is the same procedure.

Thanks for the clarification guys... That would certainly be the clean way to do it...

LockDoc