Advise on a cheap drop for 49 chevy 5window

[essner]

Hey guys I am currently working on my 49 chevy 5 window 3100...I'm looking to get it as low as possible for as little as possible... I want the drop to be slammed but I dont want to spend alot of money....so I was wondering what set ups you guys have used.... Also if you guys should send some pics of how it looks or how low it will be..... I recently seen a drop axel in the brothers catalog, did anyone use this set up on their build?

THANKS DEVAN
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[mknittle]

I like the way mine sets with no air in the tires.LOL
No really,
Truthfully I am just getting started on that stage of the build. I mean re started.

[essner]

Right now mine is lifted a little....ON JACKS LOL
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[kustombrad]

Check out how I did it. Slammed on a next to nothing budget!

[mr48chev]

Sometimes cheap and advisable don't quite go hand in hand.

This is with 205 60x14 tires on the front and two or three (I can't remember) leaves removed from the front springs. The front bumper is about six inches off the pavement in the photo.


The problem with doing it with the removed spring leaves is that there is no travel and the axle is always bottoming out of the frame. Sitting static I have about an inch and a half between the cut off bump stops and the axle. It also doesn't steer worth a damn to be truthful and I have (had) to stay on top of it all the time when driving it. The truck was thrown back together in three weeks in Aug 1989 to make the Kustom Kemps Mountain High Northwest Natonals in Chelhalis Wa that Labor day. Three weeks from a bare chassis with only the front axle under it to a drivable truck. It was intended to be torn back down that winter and redone right but I totaled my daily driver 70 C10 and had to drive the 48 to work and never ended up redoing it until now.

You can reverse the eyes in the main leaves of the springs and get a couple of inches of drop. The dropped axle would give you what ever drop you want and you might save a bit of money by having your axle dropped but that would have to be checked out and compared to the new one.
One axle dropper that a lot of guys use with great results is http://www.droppedaxles.com/CHEVY_AXLES.html 300 to drop your axle

I'd also think about going to low profile tires as that will drop the truck several inches with no other change.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by essner

Right now mine is lifted a little....ON JACKS LOL
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Mine will be lifted too tomorrow>LOL on jacks too.

[99 to Life]

Hey I posted a thread similar to this. Only I am willing to spend what I need to get it properly done with a drop axle. I wouldn't recommend taking springs out or putting the springs under the axle etc. As noted the drive would be sacrificed. I think the link to dropaxles.com is a good link here is one of many for say some lowering blocks for the rear
http://www.streetrodhq.com/dept/Truc...ts_Shocks.html

There really doesn't seem to be too many people offering these and or example of people running these. That is why I am deciding to go this route on my next build, along with an inline engine.

You can get sway bar kits too, the cheapest I seen was 150. I think that will be essential for good handling. Some good kingpins too I have read really make a difference.

[MrTucker]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

...I wouldn't recommend taking springs out or putting the springs under the axle etc...

the springs are already under the axle...

[99 to Life]

MrTucker. springs are on top unless the two frames I have are modified when I already got them. Here is my 52' springs on top. axle is 7" off of ground with 15" tires. My other frame's axle is 7" off ground with 16"

[MrTucker]

I was referring to the rear - I should have been more specific

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

... here is one of many for say some lowering blocks for the rear
http://www.streetrodhq.com/dept/Truc...ts_Shocks.html

There really doesn't seem to be too many people offering these and or example of people running these.

Anyone know why the lowering blocks offered say only up to '54? What changed? I have a '55 2nd series and wonder where I could get lowering blocks and U bolts if I decided to go that way?

[Intimidator]

cant really tell by the pics, but are your shackles aligned under the frame rail? Boo.

If they are to the outside of the rail, flip the rear shackles up to the top of the frame.... that'd give you a substantial drop and should provide plenty of clearance.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by MrTucker

the springs are already under the axle...

I believe he is saying on the front axle. Some guys put the axle on top of the spring for about a six or seven inch drop but it comes with a lot of issues.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Anyone know why the lowering blocks offered say only up to '54? What changed? I have a '55 2nd series and wonder where I could get lowering blocks and U bolts if I decided to go that way?

The later trucks have wider springs if my memory serves right and the blocks for the AD trucks are only 1-3/4 inches wide.

Check the local 4x4 shops. Lift blocks for 4X4's are the same as lowering blocks and they usually have pretty stout U bolts available.
You want the blocks to be the same width as your springs.

It all depends on how you bolt them on and the relation of the axle to the springs if they are lift or lowering blocks. They might stutter and stammer a bit if you tell them you are going to lower a truck though. Some 4x4 guys don't understand the other side of the truck world.

[99 to Life]

Yah I was referring to front axle. Again, I think a drop axle would be the way to go. as for the rear I think blocks would the way to go. I believe my shackles are inside aka right under the frame. I can confirm that this weekend.

If you run a different rear end, CPP makes this rear end conversion kit, if you want to do away with the OG rear end. Here is the description

"Our conversion kit allows you to update your existing axle to any 3-inch diameter rear, including GM 10- and 12-bolt, F-Body 7.5", Ford 9", or any other axle with 3" diameter axle tubes. Can also be
used as a flip kit for a 4" to 5" drop. Welding is
required. This kit also contains provisions for modern shock absorber mounting, a vast improvement over the original lever-action shocks. Axle seats also available separately."

Or also this second pic is if you want to recenter your aftermarket 3" diameter rear end in the fender wells, since the OG axles are not centered and I believe if you lower them it might tend to push it forward even more.
their description

"Used to center the rear axle in the fender opening when installing a late model rear axle with stock leaf springs. Moves rear axle 1-1/2"

[johns truck]

4" dop axle from sids!

[mr48chev]

This is on my truck with a few leaves removed and shows why it isn't all that wise to remove the leaves to lower the truck.
When I removed the leaves it was to throw the truck together for two events and then take it apart and put a Mustang II front end under it. That was in 1989 and live somehow got in the way and I drove it for 100K that way. And yes it did ride every bit as rough as it looks like it did.


I'd suggest a dropped axle from Sid's (pay the core that's cheaper than freight from Hawaii) and maybe a pair of new drop springs to get a couple of more inches.

You could put the axle above the springs but no one that I know of makes a bracket to mount the axle and you would be on your own there. As others said that isn't without it's own bag of worms in that the tie rod comes real close to the spring and you may end up with bump steer because of the new axle location. You would also have to figure out how to build the mount for the axle on top of the spring. That may not be all that hard if you are a good fabricator but isn't going to be easy if you aren't.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Anyone know why the lowering blocks offered say only up to '54? What changed? I have a '55 2nd series and wonder where I could get lowering blocks and U bolts if I decided to go that way?

up thru 54 the rear axle was on top of the springs, lowering blocks go in between the axle and springs to lower the axle.
55-59 the axle is under the springs. blocks in between the axle and springs would raise the the truck.
it's almost free to lower the 55-59 trucks rear by flipping the axle from the bottom to the top.
spring pads, u-bolts, c-notch and a square plate is all that is required to flip an axle.

this is my 58 with a flipped axle on stock springs