How to remove K20 trans dipstick tube?

[Stocker]

It's leaking at the bottom o-ring. Is there any way to access the tube's attachment bolt behind the engine? I can't see it.... barely able to touch it by reaching behind the engine, more or less below the right side valve cover. It's so tight I don't think I can get a wrench in there -- and if I manage to remove it, I'm afraid I won't be able to re-install it.

Am I missing something here? There must be some way to reach that bolt without pulling the engine....

[budman k20]

I have the same truck and based on a foggy memory it is possible to get to it using a long extension and swivel socket. Your other option is to pull the trans cover and hope you have a better shot at it.

[haysonj]

It is on one of the bell housing bolts and you usually can get to it by reaching up from the bottom. Not real easy but can be done.

[Stocker]

Guess I'll keep trying. So far all I've been able to do is touch it - barely - from the top. No luck from below but I'll give it another shot. I think my arms need to be longer, skinnier, and younger!!

[Stocker]

Tried reaching that bolt from below.... if the truck still had single exhaust, I could remove the bolt. But as it is, it took all I could do just to touch it with my fingertips. No way could I get a wrench up there and remove it, much less re-install it after replacing the o-ring.

Only thing I can see to do is pull the right side exhaust, which I really do not want to mess with. As much as I hate to think of it, I might try sealing around the base of the dipstick tube with Permatex 81180, which is for making or sealing gaskets on automatic transmissions.

I'll think on it for a while, and take a good hard look at that exhaust pipe.....

[1972_Buford]

You don't have any universal ratchet joints? (Swivels). I could reach mine with one pretty easily. I also using a lot of extensions.

[Stocker]

Yes, I do, and I have extensions too. But I still need to be able to reach up there to put a socket on the bolt head, and to start the threads during reassembly. So far I have been unable to even see the bolt, or to reach it with enough room to put a wrench or socket on the bolt.

Just curious, do you have a 4x4 with dual exhaust? That's what's keeping me from reaching the bolt.

Disconnecting the exhaust will gain very little b/c the pipe is locked in place by the t-case & its crossmember. And it looks like I'll need to disconnect at least one of the transmission lines (to the radiator). Gonna be a PITA but that might be enough to do the trick.

Thing that burns my butt is I paid a shop to fix this 4 or 5 years ago. I can't find the receipt and the mechanic is no longer there. Grrrrr

[1972_Buford]

I have dual exhaust but no transfer case. mine was difficult to get to but not impossible. Hmm, Still learning with these trucks, but does the transmission hump unbolt from the inside of the cab to get to the bolts easier???

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by 1972_Buford

I have dual exhaust but no transfer case. mine was difficult to get to but not impossible. Hmm, Still learning with these trucks, but does the transmission hump unbolt from the inside of the cab to get to the bolts easier???

Yep, high hump 4x4, should give you access if you remove it...might be easier then fooling with the exhaust

There is soooo much grease and oil in that area, i dont think a sealer would work

[Stocker]

I hadn't even considered removing the trans hump -- great idea, I hope it works!

[budman k20]

I guess I should have called it a trans hump instead of a cover...

[Stocker]

No problem, I knew what you meant but I kinda spaced it out when you first posted that. I was still trying to reach it the hard way.

Right now I'm taking a break. Got the seat out (needs re-upholstered) and the tattered remains of the floormat and whatever you call the padding under the mat. The last bolt holding the hump is spinning freely but refuses to back out, so I'll try grinding the head off. The hump is pretty well glued down with - what, seam sealer? - so that'll be the next challenge.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Stocker

No problem, I knew what you meant but I kinda spaced it out when you first posted that. I was still trying to reach it the hard way.

Right now I'm taking a break. Got the seat out (needs re-upholstered) and the tattered remains of the floormat and whatever you call the padding under the mat. The last bolt holding the hump is spinning freely but refuses to back out, so I'll try grinding the head off. The hump is pretty well glued down with - what, seam sealer? - so that'll be the next challenge.

Lock the nut in place with vise grips, then when you have the entire nut plate off, you can weld the nut back on the strip
Could be wrong, but i think the whole nut plate is separate on each side

[Stocker]

Yes, there are separate nut plates on each side. Unfortunately, the one I had a problem with was top & forward (and not in the nutplate) and unreachable with visegrips. It took over an hour to grind off the bolt head, and I found the problem -- when originally installed, the bolt was badly crossthreaded in the nut.

Now I just need to pry up the hump, and it's really stuck tight. Anyone have a decent method of getting it free from the 41-year-old sealer? So far I'm working my way around with a knife, but it's going very slowly.

Thanks to all for the help so far. Can't say enough about the board members here!

[Lemield]

How about heating up the seam area of the hump with a heat gun? A hair dryer will work in a pinch...but Momma might get mad!

[Stocker]

Finally got the hump off! I worked a knife blade in and hammered it along one side for several inches until I could wedge a screwdriver into the gap. Then used a small nail puller (nothing like the correct tool for the job!) to slowly lever the hump away from the floor, cutting the sealer as I went.

That gave me access to the bolt holding the tube. So the tube is out, the old o-ring is off, and it is in great condition. Now I wonder if it was the right one to begin with.

I started another thread to maybe get some new eyeballs on that specific question of correct o-ring size.

[Billhilly]

Great you got it off. Imagine if you had to pay someone to do it! Mine still isn't even together, but when I saw the o ring I straight away thought I would have to use the right silicon, and the o ring. Then it might have a chance of sealing.