layed out square

[canadian 4x4]

i am looking into building another truck. it will be pieced together on a basic budget. currently all i have is a 77 c10 lwb minus cab and bed. i was thinking of shortening the frame and making it a swb. what is the best way to do the rear suspension? gonna raise the bed floor, looks best imo. I was thinking of sectioning the front cross member. it will just be a weekend cruiser with a sbc. any suggestions to a new guy with some crazy dreams

[Narxoleptic Customs]

Read...alot of reading... Craigslist shd help too...
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[502ms]

What's your budget?
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[canadian 4x4]

as cheap as possible with out cutting corners. a drop member is probably not in the budget if i can section my cross member but, if necessary then it can happen. i can weld and have access to TIG and MIG welder at work as well as a machine shop. Is buying a bag and compressor kit from a vendor such as pro performance the most reasonable way to piece this together?

[canadian 4x4]

what is the best rear setup 4 link? trailing arms? looking for opinions on both ease of installations, and possible home made set ups.

[andrewmp6]

Have you looked at http://www.porterbuiltfabrication.com/ his front and rear dropmember will lay frame easy,Its a little pricey but i think he still makes them as weld in and it was cheaper like that.

[502ms]

Definitely choose from our vendors, since they support us..
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[broey]

as someomeone who as actaully laid out a square. I just want to throw some things out there so you can be ready for them.

1. gas tanks. they sit below the frame rails. so they gotta go. This means you either need to buy a fuel cell, or a blazer tank. add in the cost of the fuel sending unit and the materials to modify your rear end where people usually place them (spare tire location)

2. If you are converting your truck from a long wheel base, to a short wheel base, you might as well just back half the truck. specially since you said you want to raise your bed floor anyways. here is a pic of a back half to illustrate what I am talking about.


the good thing about doing this is, very easy to go from long to short. and you can build and 2 link, 3 link, 4 link system you want for it. which means you can just buy a 4 link kit from any one of our vendors.

the other place you can save some bucks is by using a manual valve set up. it is going to drastically slow down the lift and lower speeds, but eliminates the need for electric valves and the wiring to them. also you need less fittings for a manual valve set up.

now for the front. a pancaked crossmember is going to get you low...if you combine it with drop spindles you can be as close to 1/2 inch from the ground. to actually lay frame you will need to combine your pancake with a mild z. if you are running big wheels you will want to either get a set of tubular control arms that move your wheel forward like the porterbuilt ones. of you can use the z to move everything forward.

some other things to think about as far as pinching pennies is little things. like if you do a triangulated 4 link, you wont need a pan hard bar or wattslink. so thats a few bucks saved.

also, the biggest savings could be with back halving the frame like I talked about earlier. cheap materials, easy access to making the fuel tank holder, don't need to buy a step notch since the whole frame is coming up. and you can buy any 4 link you want.

as far as buying the 4 link. or 2 link, or whatever you decide bundled is better, you need the bushings, bag mounts, axle mounts, frame mounts.. everything.. so Im sure some venders will chime in with any good deals they have.

hope this helps.

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by broey

as someomeone who as actaully laid out a square. I just want to throw some things out there so you can be ready for them.

1. gas tanks. they sit below the frame rails. so they gotta go. This means you either need to buy a fuel cell, or a blazer tank. add in the cost of the fuel sending unit and the materials to modify your rear end where people usually place them (spare tire location)

2. If you are converting your truck from a long wheel base, to a short wheel base, you might as well just back half the truck. specially since you said you want to raise your bed floor anyways. here is a pic of a back half to illustrate what I am talking about.


the good thing about doing this is, very easy to go from long to short. and you can build and 2 link, 3 link, 4 link system you want for it. which means you can just buy a 4 link kit from any one of our vendors.

the other place you can save some bucks is by using a manual valve set up. it is going to drastically slow down the lift and lower speeds, but eliminates the need for electric valves and the wiring to them. also you need less fittings for a manual valve set up.

now for the front. a pancaked crossmember is going to get you low...if you combine it with drop spindles you can be as close to 1/2 inch from the ground. to actually lay frame you will need to combine your pancake with a mild z. if you are running big wheels you will want to either get a set of tubular control arms that move your wheel forward like the porterbuilt ones. of you can use the z to move everything forward.

some other things to think about as far as pinching pennies is little things. like if you do a triangulated 4 link, you wont need a pan hard bar or wattslink. so thats a few bucks saved.

also, the biggest savings could be with back halving the frame like I talked about earlier. cheap materials, easy access to making the fuel tank holder, don't need to buy a step notch since the whole frame is coming up. and you can buy any 4 link you want.

as far as buying the 4 link. or 2 link, or whatever you decide bundled is better, you need the bushings, bag mounts, axle mounts, frame mounts.. everything.. so Im sure some venders will chime in with any good deals they have.

hope this helps.

awesome info broey!

[canadian 4x4]

thank you broey! i was hoping some one with some experience chimed in. back halving definitely seems like the way to go. possible to build my own triangulated 4 link? then just by a bag set up from a vendor? i don't think i want manual valves, not that i'm going to play with it a lot. but would save me from buying valves twice.

[broey]

Originally Posted by canadian 4x4

thank you broey! i was hoping some one with some experience chimed in. back halving definitely seems like the way to go. possible to build my own triangulated 4 link? then just by a bag set up from a vendor? i don't think i want manual valves, not that i'm going to play with it a lot. but would save me from buying valves twice.

yeah I think you have the right ideal.

[maxxxy]

Just do a "Z" and drop spindles, way less calculations and way simpler when it comes to planning. I've done the pancaked crossmember and it seems like it'd be easier to just go with the "Z", but if you feel like you really want to pancake, check out my build.

[broey]

Originally Posted by maxxxy

Just do a "Z" and drop spindles, way less calculations and way simpler when it comes to planning. I've done the pancaked crossmember and it seems like it'd be easier to just go with the "Z", but if you feel like you really want to pancake, check out my build.

this can lead to more problems. the engine sitting too high for the hood to shut, having to raise the transmission tunnel, crazy pinion angles... more things to think about...

[maxxxy]

Originally Posted by broey

this can lead to more problems. the engine sitting too high for the hood to shut, having to raise the transmission tunnel, crazy pinion angles... more things to think about...

I guess you're right!
Either way, take your time and figure out every possible detail you can about this sort of modification before you start. It'll save you time and effort in the long run.