Pieces

[hgs_notes]

Your rear end ratio will be a factor for deciding whether to go over drive or not. Mine was originally a 3.73 rear with a small v8. I grew tired of nearly 3000 rpm on the highway. I kept the TH350 and changed rear ends to a 3.07 and it's about perfect now. With that V6, if you have a 3.73 or 4.11 rear end you will want the overdrive. If you have a 3.07 now you would probably be happy with it and the TH350. Just my opinion, but it comes from my own experience.

As for the 4.3, it is just slightly smaller displacement than my old 283 and more displacement than the original 250. If it has a good cam it should run great in that truck.

[Palf70Step]

Thanks all.. Hgs, mine has a 3.07 in it now. I am thiniking still about just keeping a T350 because of the simplicity and not having to worry about TV -Cable issues.

[Palf70Step]

Got a little time today and put the accessories on the engine. I am still planning on using the Grand Cherokee electric fan setup with this engine. I got most of the stuff in and the hood back on today. It is nice to clear off the floor again.

[VA72C10]

Nice! Progress!!!

[krazy_texan]

geez i remember going with you to buy that truck and attempting to drive it back lol we definatly didnt get to far haha.

[Palf70Step]

Originally Posted by krazy_texan

geez i remember going with you to buy that truck and attempting to drive it back lol we definatly didnt get to far haha.

This is my original Jacob, not the 69 we attempted to drive back. What is left of the 69 is in pieces throughout the shed and yard But you are soooo right, it didn't get very far.

[Alan's Classic]

Very cool progress Bill!!

[70LonghornCST]

I'm glad one of us is making progress. Keep it up!

[Palf70Step]

Not really progress, but I acquired a long tail (well 9") T350 from a squarebody to put behind the 4.3 With the way things are set up, I think I'll be able to use the original 3 speed drive shaft. Right now I am around 3" too short, so hopefully the difference in the tail shaft will work out.

[fakerwade]

Hey Bill,,,any new progress??? How's your transmission working out???

[firedog]

Seen you are running a v6 which mounts did you use and which location did you mount it in

[Palf70Step]

Originally Posted by fakerwade

Hey Bill,,,any new progress??? How's your transmission working out???

No nothing really. I think I got most things caught up around the house and on the 83 that I'll be touching it some thiw weekend...I hope.

Originally Posted by firedog

Seen you are running a v6 which mounts did you use and which location did you mount it in

Firedog I am using engine stands and mounts from a mid 80s vehicle. When mounted in the V8 mount holes it actually moves a V8 back as if it were in the 6 cylinder stand mounts. With the V6, I moved the front hole back about 3" and drilled a new holes for the stands. It put the V6 about where it would sit right in relation to the firewall. I am using the stands, mounts and engine brackets off a 80s 305 V8 and not the V6 engine mounts. So far it seems OK.

The 70' s T350 (short - 6"- tail shaft) left me short for the drive shaft, but I have another T350 with a 9" tail shaft which I think will allow my stock drive shaft to work again. We'll find out this weekend I hope on how close my measurements were.

[Palf70Step]

Swapped out the short tail shaft T350 for the one with a 9" tail shaft.

stock drive shaft hooks up now. I will probably still need a new driv shaft down the line as it is still about 3/4" shorter than stock set-up was with the inline 6 & 3 speed manual.

What you guys think? Do I have enough yoke inside the tranny or go for a new drive shaft?

I also cleaned up the stock dipstick tube and repainted it. It is starting to look like an engine compartment again.

[fakerwade]

It looks about right to me Bill,,,as you know the yoke slides forward and backward as the suspension travels up and down and as the box is loaded and unloaded. Using the rust mark and the measurements pictured it looks like your right in the sweet spot of the yoke travel. It probably wouldn't hurt to have a driveline repair shop take a look at it just to be on the safe side.

[Palf70Step]

Little bit at a time.

Been working on putting front spindles and disk brakes on the old girl. Parts came from a 78 C10. It took a while to get the old stuff off. Many those ball joints did NOT want to come loose of the original spindle.

While I am at it I decided that I would test on how the old girl would look with a small bit of lowering. I took and cut the stock HD springs what I think will bring it down around 2". Depending on how you lower guys say it, I took out either 1-1/2 coils or just a single coil. Anyways, measurement wise it's about 2 inches less than the stock spring.

I had to weld up the lower ball join socket some so the ball joints would have a tight fit, but after all the mess, I finally got the driver's side in. I still have to hook up the cross link and the driver's side tie rod ends yet.

Hopefully I'll be able to get started (maybe even finish) on the passenger side tomorrow.

[Palf70Step]

Finished up the spindle and disk brake swap on the 70. 2 goof ups. 1. I didn't measure the distance before (1st picture) I did the swap and cut springs. I think I got between 2 and 3 inches on the drop. I know the from cross member is a good bit lower now. Sitting as she is now with 275/60x15, she is 30.6 inches from the fender lip to the floor.

Two, my quess-ta-met for my new tie rods is a bit off. They both don't go perfectly straight at the moment. Close, but oh well she's not driving anywhere real soon.. I'll tweak that later.

I am glad I got the cross link from the newer truck. That way I was able to use both inner and outer tie rods for the 78 doaner vehicle. Once I get a new MC and a proportioning valve, I'll bend an finish rerunning new front brake lines.

I am thinking about tackling the axle swap and doing a 2" drop block for the rear next.

[Palf70Step]

Care package arrived this week.

Master Cylinder and proportioning valve for the disk brake changeover.
and let us not forget
The 2" lowering blocks for the rear

Time to get to work!

[Palf70Step]

Cracked the rear open and got ready to change to the 5 lug axles. Just to find a rounded off bolt head for the lock pin bolt

I couldn't get a grip on it, so I tried using the dremel to make it a screw head, then use my screw head on the ratchet. Success, she came out

Luckily I had a bolt from another axle I took apart that I could use on the reassembly.

The 5 lug axles went in without an issue..sorta...more on that in a minute. Now onto the lower blocks.

I got mine and the brake parts from a place called performance on line (POL). They seem good and went on without an issue.

As you can see from the first and last pic, it really moved that rear end up.

[Palf70Step]

I had put new shoes on the drivers side then, mounted the new drum and a wheel for look sees.............Then it hit me. Where is the hole to adjust the brakes?.

There is no punch out in the drum like the 70's 6 lugs drums had (and one of the crappy 72 drums I had), nor was there a whole in the backing plate. So now I have to take the drivers side down again, pull the axle and use the 72 backing plates that have the holes in them.

One of them "you are a tard moments".

I didn't even think about changing the backing plates. I just figured they were the same since everything else fit. Oh well. I was looking at the passenger side and thought I had a wheel cylinder leak too, but it looks like I might need an axle seal on that one The seal looked OK, but whatever leaked in that drum, looks greaser than just brake fluid, so might as well put the seals in when I yank the axles for the backing plate changeover.

1 step forward....2 steps back.

[Palf70Step]

Well, got the 70 back together again. New axle seals, repacked the bearings, drop blocks in place.
Turns out the holes in the 72 backing plates are for???? as they do not line up for the adjuster. I ended up using my drill and dremel to make a slot in both drums. I thought I took a picture, but I didn't...so it has to wait.

I like the stance with the 2" blocks and the cut springs. These are cheapie rollers, but front is 275/60x16 and rears is 255/70x15.

Not scraping, but compared to when I had the ralleys and 275/60s on all 4 back in 2002, she has come down a decent amount for me.


I was not real sure how close they would be, but as you can see the 2" blocks with 15" ralleys, I better never have a flat while moving I guess I'll eventually be looking for some 17" (or bigger) wheels so I won't drag if I loose a tire.

For now she is tucked away so I can get both the 70 and the 83 in the shop if it gets extra windy and wet here this week.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Truck is relly comming along bill congrats and stay outta the weather headding your way..

[tantrumpipeline]

lookin sweet, came a long way

[fakerwade]

Wow Bill, I go away for just a little while and look what happens,,, progress!!!

Good job on getting that spider pin out. As far as setting your toe (in or out) I've had good luck getting that setting pretty close by using a friend, a tape measure, and a couple straight edges (about 3 feet long). Hold a straight edge (use a board or piece of square tubing) against the outside of the front tire about 5 or 6 inches from the floor (parallel to the floor) and have your friend do the same with his straight edge on the other side of the truck. Then use the tape measure to measure between the straight edge's at the front of the tires and then measure between the straight edge's at the back side of the tires. If the measurement is the same then you have zero toe in or out. If the front measurement is smaller then the rear number then your toe is "in". Ect. Give it a try, it should get you pretty close.