got me a t-5!

[brokenspoke]

Originally Posted by jocko

here's what I used, worked great (you're probably already seen it): http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1351&ppt=C0015
Note - I've discovered that OReily's online part numbers don't always make sense to the 9guy behind the counter - but if you walk in with this printed out, they will find it and have it. Usually a 1 day turnaround if not in stock. I did say "usually" - due to some behind the counter antics, mine took a week, but generally speaking, I'm glad there's at least an OReily's in my town. We also have a good autozone counter guy as well. Hope that helps. NAPA also sells almost the same thing, but they do carry the part also.

Thanks Jocko....never too old to learn something....

[66redw/white]

well of course the fly wheel was not in stock. itll be here tommorrow at 1030. so well have to see what happens. i did notice that my brake master cylinder is leakin like a champ. so maybe well tackle that today. woo hooo!

[jocko]

Ha, that was my "next" project too, until the master froze up on the test drive and locked up all 4 wheels... But I was lucky, locked up in the driveway on the return trip! But, wanted to swap to dual master cylinder anyway - so that was the "push" i guess i needed...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=4936191

[66redw/white]

jocko your a dang life saver man. i dont know how but your ruffly 2 steps ahead of me at all times. you arent planning on baggin your truck soon are you. if you wouldnt mind just doin a write up on that too! lol.

[jocko]

Ha, sorry, no plans for that yet - I'll have to read your write-up for that one. I'm gonna have to get some new tires I'm afraid, so that will take a little doe. I'm sold on 235-75-15's, but they seem to be very hard to find in blakcwall (not a fan of just reversing a whitewall...) The ones I have now are Primewell's (Tires Plus store brand) and they pretty much suck. The "look" of them is fine, but they always actually LOOK like crap because of some gunk in the rubber that keeps bleeding up thru the tire. I can scrub them and get them spotless and the next morning they will be all glazed over with some yellowish crap that looks like protective shipping goop. I've never seen anything like it, but it sure is annoying. Oh well. Mo fun. Maybe I'll just stick my rallies back on so I can stick some good ol BFG T/A's on and then I can fit disk brakes in the wheels and tear out my recent brake line job!

Make sure to ref the Chief's write-up also - good notes and detail in that one - it's in the thread posted above for the brake stuff.
Couple notes that might help (and folks on here helped me with) -
- the reservoir closest to the firewall is for the FRONT brakes
- the reservoir closest to the grille of the car is for the REAR brakes
- Chief's write-up explains where to cap a "T" and add a "UNION" joint so that you separate the front from rear brakes of the old single res master cylinder with the minimum amount of new line to bend.

[66redw/white]

my machinist decided that the spacer plate was worth 150 bucks. well i think im just gonna buy the 120 dollar one offa the internet. it sucks though because the trans in my blazer just went out today! fml!

[jocko]

66r/w, yep, that's a little steep for something that will still require some additional work once it's done (i.e. u drill the trans mount holes, etc). So I would do the same, just buy one.

On a side note, while I know I haven't had much good to say about them, Hamilton Intakes FINALLY called me back the other day to tell me their S10T5 Adapter plate was back in stock and ready for sale (that was real nice of em after I planned a whole swap around a part they advertised and then didn't have in stock for the entire summer...). But anyway, that is one more option for you seeing as they ARE in stock now finally. Personally, however, after the runaround I got from the Hamilton guys, I'd stick with Vintage Metalworks. but just wanted to throw it out ther in case you're in a bind.

Hate to tell ya my machine shop did it for $80, but when he was done, he said he wished he'd asked $120. So I was just a little lucky on that end. Next go round on a swap like this, I will probably go with Vintage Metal Works and save a little bit of headache. Nice guy, good part, good service, nuff said.

Here's the two commercially available adapters I'm aware of:
Vintage Metal Workd (already gave you this link I think): http://vintagemetalworks.blogspot.co...ter-plate.html
Hamilton Intakes: http://hamiltonintakes.com/products/...5-swap-adapter

[66redw/white]

finally bought my adapter today. things have been alittle ruff round my house as of late. but as soon as that sucker gets here im puttin it in!!

[brokenspoke]

Originally Posted by jocko

Hmmm. I bought the 11" mid-80's Astro Van pressure plate combo from Oreily's and it bolted to my flywheel in the same bolt holes as my original.

Could this be a V8/I6 difference? Astro Van was same bolt pattern as the flywheel on my 283.

I finally got on this project and did as Jocko stated....the 11 inch pp bolted on perfectly.....I'm happy as I needed a new clutch for the truck....I learned that the autoparts stores now only sell clutch packs....if the astro van didnt work I was going to have to buy 2 clutch packs.....$151.00 for one is enough...I shortened my drive shaft 9 inches....hopefully it will all be put together tomorrow

[padresag]

Originally Posted by brokenspoke

I finally got on this project and did as Jocko stated....the 11 inch pp bolted on perfectly.....I'm happy as I needed a new clutch for the truck....I learned that the autoparts stores now only sell clutch packs....if the astro van didnt work I was going to have to buy 2 clutch packs.....$151.00 for one is enough...I shortened my drive shaft 9 inches....hopefully it will all be put together tomorrow

the one thing to check is for the throwout bearing. there are 2 different lengths. there are 2 styles of pressure plates; diaphram or fingers(3). if your old one was a diaphram and your new one is also then you should be ok. you should also check the installed height of both pressure plates just so that so that you know the throw out brg is hitting at the same level, the p/late for the astro may be a little lighter then the orig in pressure .
just to save you grief later when you find that the clutch isn't engaging properly and you have to take it all out.
you should still be able to just get a disc only, you just might happen to talk to a partsman that doesn't have a computer stuck to his or her backside and that is all they understand
ron

[brokenspoke]

I went to 4 auto parts stores....none sell just a disk.....I know summit does but i still needed a pp

[66redw/white]

i got all my stuff from the local autozone. it wasnt to awful much
all though i havent been able to put it all together yet. im still waiting on the rear axle and the drive shaft. some unforseen expenses showed up.

cough cough divorce cough cough

but i guess thats the way things go sometimes

[jocko]

recommend buying a kit and not just a disk - or just a pp - or just a throwout, etc. As padre mentioned above, there are differences in the throwout bearings, but there are also differences in the pressure plates (in their thicknesses, etc). So, all "kits" fit in the same stock bell housing - and they work together for the proper stack height of pp and throwout bearing (or, more appropriately, release bearing - sorry). And you can only be assured of a proper combo if you buy in kit form. Granted, a disk is a disk - but the key (in my mind) is to get the pressure plate and release bearing together - and I don't know ANYone that sells a kit with those two that doesn't have a disk in it also.

There were pretty noticeable differences between the thicknesses of the old vs. new pp/release bearing combo - but they all (old and new) added up to approx the same stack height. For example, in my particular setup - if I'd kept or bought the stock 66 release bearing and used the astro pressure plate - it would have been way, way too "thick" and not enough room in the bell. The alternative is true also - astro release bearing with 66 pp would have been a different total stack height as well (although THAT combo should work because those items are both "thinner" than the matched set - but could cause release bearing and disk interference).

By "stack height" I mean the thickness of the pressure plate added to the overall thickness of the release bearing with the appropriate release bearing travel along the splines accounted for. to measure (roughly) place your pp on the ground smooth surface down. lay the release bearing onto tthe diaphraghm fingers, just barely touching. place a level across the top of the release bearing and measure from the high end of the release bearing to the floor. The height of the combo you are replacing (the factory 66 setup in my case) needs to be at least approximately the same height of the new pp/release bearing combo I'm replacing it with. i.e. all the crap ya gotta stuff in your bell housing depth and worry about it fitting and functioning.

[padresag]

the pressure plate should be bolted down to take the measurement- installed measurement
ron

[66redw/white]

fwew! man. what a ride this has been. got my trans back from the shop. had her cleaned up a bit. replaced some seals and a bearing or two. tomorrow ill be doin the install of the flywheel, clutch, and trans. so ill be sure to let yall know how it all goes exactly. im moving oct 15th to a new house and this sucker has been layed up for a YEAR!! i refuse to tow it to my new house!

[66redw/white]

well the flywheel that i have doesnt work. aint that a bi^&*. anybody with a straight six do this swap that can tell me exactly what flywheel to get? the teeth on the flywheel are bout a half inch away from the starter flywheel so my pressure plate wont fit inside the bellhousing.

[66redw/white]

i honestly dont know why i bought a flywheel for an astro van. lookin back on it that was pretty dumb. im going to check the autozones tomorrow.