1989 color code wiring diagram?

[battlewagon]

I picked up some doors from an 89 Suburban, electric locks and windows, from the junk yard.....thinking I could just "hot wire" them to a positive lead for power and everything would work ...... Not So Much.
Nothing does anything. Ground is chassis, screwed to the door frame, power is 12 from an spare 12 V battery.

I've looked everywhere I can think of, web sites and in my own service manuals for a color code diagram for this year series truck, but no luck.

The pink wire seems to be "hot" ,but when connected to + ...nothing happens. Any ideas from you would be much appreciated.

[Greenlee]

I'm using the wiring harness from an 89' Suburban to rewire my truck. I bought complete wire diagrams from an Internet site. Unfortunately, I'm traveling now and don't have access to them. From memory, I think you are correct that the pink wire is power. The harness for the doors is completely separate from the rest of the trucks wiring harness. One wire plugs into the fuse box where it says pwr wdo. I think you have to have the switches pluged in from door to door for it to work. I hope this helps. I will have access to my wiring diagrams in a few days.
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[battlewagon]

Thanks for the quick response! I don't intend to use the wires to the rear windows or doors...so that may be a problem, if as you say they have to all be connected. I suppose I could just connect all like colored wires to the same from each door..? That would still leave the rear door wiring dangling....

This isn't rocket science just 12 V DC. It should be that difficult, but it's got me baffled.

The doors are going in this, Off Road Rat Rod, 1980 Chev 4 X 4 with a utility trailer box on the back. It was so wrong it was "right".

[battlewagon]

If there is not a specific wiring diagram available, maybe someone can explain the basic theory?

Is there one hot wire that provides power to the various actuators and motors? That appears to be the pink wire that goes to the window switch on the drivers side. The door lock switches appear independent of that wiring to me....right?
Wouldn't a DC actuator/motor, with a chassis ground, need 2 wires....up or down....open or closed? By reversing the polarity it should operate opposite to the first command....right?
I need to find the hot wires to the window motors and then the door lock actuators, then interchange the wires, by using the switches if they are working...right?
Would all the wiring on each door, driver and passenger, need to be connected or can I hot wire each door separately for a test? That's what I'm trying to do now. The door lock and windows worked before we removed them from the vehicle of origin, and that's what has me baffled.
I would never have taken them if I didn't think I could simply hot wire them afterward. It won't do to drive around all winter in Michigan with the windows down.

[Greenlee]

Cool truck!

The door locks are part of the same harness. I'm not using rear doors either. I unplugged wiring going to the rear and am not using it.

If i were in your shoes I would go to a junkyard and get the wiring harness for the doors. I suspect any 81-87 pickup or suburban up to 91 will work. The burbs have extra plugs for wires running to rear.
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[wyattglock]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1237301677

Here is a power window schematic from another part of the site. I don't have my truck sitting on my driveway right now or I would go out and open the door. I still have the interior panels off from doing my mirror install.

[battlewagon]

Thanks! Not quite the right diagram, but useful none the less. The newer trucks have power locks and I'm wanting to use the doors in a pickup cab.

We spent about 3 hrs connecting wires today and finally got both windows to go up and down and doors to lock and unlock.... the only problem is we are making and breaking contacts manually, rather than just wiring it up with one positive and one negative and having things work on their own. Still baffled why this is happening....
There is no apparent "ground" location or wire, since to reverse directions I must move the negative lead to it's respective wire. I wonder if I just need to connect the negative to the door frame as a ground? That would be too simple. But that's the way I started out when nothing would work.

Any thoughts? Appreciate the help.

[battlewagon]

Originally Posted by Greenlee

Cool truck!

The door locks are part of the same harness. I'm not using rear doors either. I unplugged wiring going to the rear and am not using it.

If i were in your shoes I would go to a junkyard and get the wiring harness for the doors. I suspect any 81-87 pickup or suburban up to 91 will work. The burbs have extra plugs for wires running to rear.
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Thanks. We just chopped off the wires inside the Suburban toe kicks and pulled the wires through the grommets. I had no idea that I couldn't just wire the hots and find a ground and be done with this...Grrrr.
We do understand that for the drivers window control to operate the passenger's window there must be some wires connected from the drivers door. Same with the door locks. We laid the doors together with the wires pig-tailed and got things to work, but only by manually switching the negative to various appropriate wires. Grrrr.

[wyattglock]

There should be a ground wire in the door harness somewhere. I had the same problem with my mirrors when I installed them. I ended up grounding the switch inside the door and the problems went away. These trucks usually just reversed polarity to the switch for up or down. That is why you have to keep moving the ground back and forth. Once you get the switch grounded right, and the right power wires to the right side, it should work out. Good luck getting that done, its a real PITA!

[battlewagon]

Well we gave up for today and loaded the doors into my son's pickup and he will take them to both of his Auto Tech classes and ask the instructors how to wire them. Hoping they will have an answer. His course this term is "electrical" and boy that's just what the Dr. ordered!

I didn't see an obvious "ground" wire in the harness, and that's why it's such a difficult issue. All the wires seemed to run either to a switch or to the motors which are buried inside the doors. I wonder if one of those motor wires is a ground? There are also thicker and thinner wires, thicker going to the motors and thinner going to the switches.

I can't believe there is no way to get a color coded diagram for this thing. I must be the only idiot who thinks this would be an easy swap out.

About 30 years ago I built this buggy and completely wired the thing from scratch. 57 Ford running gear 2 WD shortened the frame 42 " and ended up with a 76" wheelbase.... short!
I put the engine in every possible location, stock, rear and mid. Mid worked best. I "had" to sell it to stay married. I miss that truck! I don't miss her.......

[chebyshortbox65]

That's because if you remove the harness complete you will find it has relays that control the Windows and locks just get the complete harness and be done with it and not reinvent the wheel the reverse ground system is inside the switches and then they turn on diffrent relays to go up or down some of the simplistic things can sometimes be the hardest to figure out
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[battlewagon]

I think I will probably give up in this swap out. I can get a newer cab, doors and clip so I can possibly return the electric doors for credit towards that one. Too much work required on the 80 cab I have now and making these doors work on that.

Thanks to all who tried to help! Nice folks here!