Electrolosis eating heater core? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Scrub · 10-12-2003, 06:24 PM

Off 67 72 topic,
I am posting this here cuz you guys:
Rock,
know stufff,
Answer posts
Plus no buddy knows me at the 94 - 98 board.

My buddy has a 94 burb and the heater cores just rot out of it. Both front and rear went out, so he bought a new one and it lasted 3 months. He took it back and they gave him a new one, but the guy told him an electrical short was eating the aluminum cores....
Anyone ever heard of such a thing? The battery has one of those battery buddy things that disconects the battery if there is any batery drain and it isn't going off, so I am doubting this story.

I'm thinking his water has something in it that is caustic. Can you get Non-aluminum heater cores? any advice?
Thanks in advance.

lukecp · 10-12-2003, 06:29 PM

http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/n...ctrolysis.html

Yes....it could be the problem. You would have to have a positive source of electricity in your coolant though.

I bought a heater core for my truck from O'Reilly's and it was made out of the same metal as my radiator.

**passthebuck** · 10-12-2003, 07:27 PM

ok-back to highskool chemistry. aluminum is more reactive than iron & steel. Aluminum is the most reactive metal in the cooling system SO it gets attacked first by the acidic coolant. Coolant becomes acidic over time due to its rust inhibitors & the like breaking down. I had a similar problem - my aluminum thermostat housing was being eaten away SO I bought a MOTORAD radcap that hangs a piece of magnesium down into the coolant. Magnesium is MORE reactive than aluminum so it gets eaten first. The magnesium is called a sacrificial anode & it works. One could even do the same thing by throwing a pebble-sized hunk of magnesium down the neck of their radiator once or twice a year BUT you couldnt monitor how fast the anode is being eaten... A cheap source of magnesium are some old lawnmower decks (cast magnesium). Check out this link i found:

http://www.team.net/html_arc/datsun-.../msg00807.html

I know they're talkin about Datsuns BUT it is relevant to us too.

jamis · 10-12-2003, 07:34 PM

you can buy Zinc anode at a marine supply store that will screw into the intake manifold. As far as ectrolysis goes you might have a poor ground to the engine and body. That would charge the coolant and it would look for any ground it can find. It could also be cheap coolant.

Longhorn Man · 10-12-2003, 10:34 PM

Take a volt meter, and dip the positive lead into the coolant, and then the negitave lead onto the neg battery post. I think it is supposed to be under.5 volt. If higher, then flush and fill with new coolant.
And while chainging coolant, this would be a good time to get rid of that dex cool crap.

10-12-2003, 06:24 PM	#1
Scrub Collector of rusty Items Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Sisters,Oregon USA Posts: 731	Electrolosis eating heater core? Off 67 72 topic, I am posting this here cuz you guys: Rock, know stufff, Answer posts Plus no buddy knows me at the 94 - 98 board. My buddy has a 94 burb and the heater cores just rot out of it. Both front and rear went out, so he bought a new one and it lasted 3 months. He took it back and they gave him a new one, but the guy told him an electrical short was eating the aluminum cores.... Anyone ever heard of such a thing? The battery has one of those battery buddy things that disconects the battery if there is any batery drain and it isn't going off, so I am doubting this story. I'm thinking his water has something in it that is caustic. Can you get Non-aluminum heater cores? any advice? Thanks in advance. __________________ Scrub Sisters, Oregon - Home of the Sisters Rodeo. 70 GMC 1,000,000 + miles 72 K-20 project, 456 Dana60 front, Corp14 rear w/locker, 265R19.5 tires 20-ply. Warn 12k winches both ends, Cross-over steering with raised tie-rod, Powerbox steering, 4500 watt 120-AC power, Air, Hydraulic aux power, 4 inch lift, 5000 lb air-bags both ends.

10-12-2003, 06:29 PM	#2
lukecp Formerly yellow72custom Join Date: May 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 7,531	http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/n...ctrolysis.html Yes....it could be the problem. You would have to have a positive source of electricity in your coolant though. I bought a heater core for my truck from O'Reilly's and it was made out of the same metal as my radiator. __________________ '72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride. '70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck. '97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg

10-12-2003, 07:27 PM	#3
passthebuck Sisyphus was my mentor! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Carleton Place, Ontario CANADA Posts: 984	ok-back to highskool chemistry. aluminum is more reactive than iron & steel. Aluminum is the most reactive metal in the cooling system SO it gets attacked first by the acidic coolant. Coolant becomes acidic over time due to its rust inhibitors & the like breaking down. I had a similar problem - my aluminum thermostat housing was being eaten away SO I bought a MOTORAD radcap that hangs a piece of magnesium down into the coolant. Magnesium is MORE reactive than aluminum so it gets eaten first. The magnesium is called a sacrificial anode & it works. One could even do the same thing by throwing a pebble-sized hunk of magnesium down the neck of their radiator once or twice a year BUT you couldnt monitor how fast the anode is being eaten... A cheap source of magnesium are some old lawnmower decks (cast magnesium). Check out this link i found: http://www.team.net/html_arc/datsun-.../msg00807.html I know they're talkin about Datsuns BUT it is relevant to us too. __________________ passthebuck #5642 -TWO 1967 GMC 910's. One with L6/3-on-the tree and the other with 355 w/435hp & a 700r4. -a 2013 Honda Civic as my "sensible" car

10-12-2003, 07:34 PM	#4
jamis F.A.S.T. president Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 1,883	you can buy Zinc anode at a marine supply store that will screw into the intake manifold. As far as ectrolysis goes you might have a poor ground to the engine and body. That would charge the coolant and it would look for any ground it can find. It could also be cheap coolant.

10-12-2003, 10:34 PM	#5
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Take a volt meter, and dip the positive lead into the coolant, and then the negitave lead onto the neg battery post. I think it is supposed to be under.5 volt. If higher, then flush and fill with new coolant. And while chainging coolant, this would be a good time to get rid of that dex cool crap.



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