Any tricks you guys got for pulling the brake drums

[USAF65GMC]

Well I started working on the brakes since I am waiting on a couple of parts for the engine. The master cylinder was empty expect for some sludge and I had no peddle at all. I was planning on doing a complete rework of the system. Got the master cylinder off, but went to the first drum and it was a no go. I have tried beating the crap out of it and backing off the adjuster, but no luck. Do you guys have any tricks that may help me out.

[Boog]

It's most likely rusted to the hub. I apply some heat around close to the hub and give it some good smacks in between the wheel studs to knock it loose. Maybe some PB blaster before hand to soak where the drum meets the hub.

[too much stuff]

If you are on the front, there is a chance the drum is still rivited to the hub. May have to pull the castle nut and bearings and pull off as an assembly. Pics may help.

[Daddy Brim]

Look and see if the screws on the front of the drum are still on. They have a tapered head with a slot. I had to use penetrating oil and a impact screw driver to get mine off.

[50bomb]

Originally Posted by too much stuff

If you are on the front, there is a chance the drum is still rivited to the hub. May have to pull the castle nut and bearings and pull off as an assembly. Pics may help.

Yes I agree with this. I just put a new master cylinder in and wheel cylinder rebuild kit the other day. Could not get the front drums off worth anything. I was irratated. Finally remember I could take the nut and bearings off and it slid off very easily.

[GRX]

Originally Posted by Boog

It's most likely rusted to the hub. I apply some heat around close to the hub and give it some good smacks in between the wheel studs to knock it loose. Maybe some PB blaster before hand to soak where the drum meets the hub.

^^ My thoughts exactly! I have removed many rusty rear drums that way. Often the drum will give a loud "tick" when the parts free themselves under heat. Even had one pop right off the center hub onto my lap.

[Daner]

One of my brakes was sticking on a Nash car I have and backing it off didn't help me either.

What I ended up doing was: I put the lug bolts back in and wrapped baling wire around them in a sort of weave. Then I put the 3 jaw puller on the wire and pulled it right off. Quick and easy. Make sure you remove the castle nut and be ready to catch the bearing.

[davepl]

It always helps to provide some info on what you're working on... but since you didn't, I'll assume it's exactly the same as mine.

There are two big slotted screws that hold each drum on. It's not going anywhere until those are removed.

[USAF65GMC]

Sorry not to be more descriptive, but thanks for the ideas. It is the front drum on a 69 Chevy C-10. I have not had a chance to try any off the suggestions yet. I have attached a pic.

[davepl]

I don't see any evidence of the retaining screws I was speaking of, so they may only be on 3/4T and larger drums.

Do they move around at all? If you can rock them around a little bit but they won't come off, likely the pads. If they're solid, probably seized with rust somewhere. Soak the area around the center hub with PB or liquid wrench, heat, hammer, the standard stuff. I've never seen a puller big enough to pull a drum, but I'm sure they exist.

Someone above mentioned that the drums could be riveted to the hub... I'm not even sure what that means (never heard of drums being somehow riveted to the hub, but then I hadn't seen the retaining screws until they got in my way either), so check that too if you know what he was referring to.

And while I'm throwing out the obvious... are you sure you rotated the adjuster the right way? I can never figure it out from side to side so I generally tighten it until I get drag when rotating the drum and then go all the way the -other- way.

[OutlawRider]

I just beat the crap out of mine with a pry bar and BFH. Mine were frozen solid though.

[JDL]

At the 1:00 position is the rivet holding the drum to the hub just pull the cap and take the nut off and the hole thing comes off.

[too much stuff]

You can see the 3 rivits holding the drum on the hub. Pull the nut and bearings and pull the whole assembly. That is the only way you will get it. Once apart you can grind or chisel the rivits off and it will come apart easy next time.

[pritch]

It always amazes/impresses me that after 40+ years, the original drums are still on some of these. I never got a good answer on this, but can the drums be turned with the hub still riveted on?

[GuyO]

I had a truck once where only one front drum was rivited! I beat on that thing for about a hour before I realized it was not coming off without pulling off the dust cover and removing the castle nut. Whoever the PO owner was - it was a mean trick! BTW, except for that one hub, it was always the rears it seems that were harder to remove.

[oldspowered67C10]

can the drums be turned with the hub still riveted on?

Yes, assuming the shop has the bearing type centering cones for their brake lathe, most shops do.

[USAF65GMC]

Thanks for all the ideas! If I have time, I will give it a shot this evening. I have been trying to get the truck running, but had some time while I was waiting for parts, so I started on the brakes. The fun I am having with the ignition might be a whole other thread!

[USAF65GMC]

Originally Posted by too much stuff

If you are on the front, there is a chance the drum is still riveted to the hub. May have to pull the castle nut and bearings and pull off as an assembly. Pics may help.

That was it! I got them off. Now to replace the wheel cylinders. Thanks for the help!

[GRX]

Originally Posted by pritch

It always amazes/impresses me that after 40+ years, the original drums are still on some of these. I never got a good answer on this, but can the drums be turned with the hub still riveted on?

The truck in my sig still had the factory shoes and drums on the back. Needless to say they were shot. And yes, turning the front drum while still on the hub is proper way to do it.