Pancaked Xmember Question

[Solo2002]

Originally Posted by Realnoisy

I agree that sectioned/pancake xmember is not just for bagged trucks but that is a lot of work for 2 inches on a static drop. Since I'm converting to a 73' xmember to gain disc brakes, power steering the time was right to section.

IMO, you could DROP CUP LCA's, drop LCA's 2 inches, Zframe or cut coils to gain 2 inches much easier than sectioning the xmember.

But you would still lose 2 inches of ground clearance of the x-member with LCAs and not with a pancake rite?
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[Realnoisy]

Originally Posted by Solo2002

But you would still lose 2 inches of ground clearance of the x-member with LCAs and not with a pancake rite?
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Correct

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by Realnoisy

I agree that sectioned/pancake xmember is not just for bagged trucks but that is a lot of work for 2 inches on a static drop. Since I'm converting to a 73' xmember to gain disc brakes, power steering the time was right to section.

IMO, you could DROP CUP LCA's, drop LCA's 2 inches, Zframe or cut coils to gain 2 inches much easier than sectioning the xmember.

Hmmm,

This procedure was not hard at all, and very basic actually.

But I can see for some, this might be a large task.

Yours looks like it came out good.

Whether you drop cup or step the LCA's, your still gonna have that hanging crossmember or LCA.

For the person who wants a small drop/rake....then I would say "no, you probably wont need this"

However, if you want a low slung body, are not ready for bags, and do not want to make contact with that manhole cover down the street.....you might wanna go this route.....
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[Realnoisy]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

Hmmm,

This procedure was not hard at all, and very basic actually.

But I can see for some, this might be a large task.

Yours looks like it came out good.

Whether you drop cup or step the LCA's, your still gonna have that hanging crossmember or LCA.

For the person who wants a small drop/rake....then I would say "no, you probably wont need this"

However, if you want a low slung body, are not ready for bags, and do not want to make contact with that manhole cover down the street.....you might wanna go this route.....
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Posted via Mobile Device

The procedure (pancaking) itself is easy. What I'm talking about is the removal of the xmember and all the components to get it out. Once out, then you should power wash and clean it, measuring 10 times, locate a plasma cutter (unless you are fortunate to own one) or another method of cutting it out, shim & weld it up, buy lots of rods and grinder wheels (I probably made 3 trips to welding supply), re-install xmember and all the components for 2 inch drop. To me, it's a lot of work and time....I'm an old guy doing it this by myself and in this Texas heat (105 degrees) doesn't help matters.

[chevyrestoguy]

Another real option to consider is Z'ing the chassis. There are a few advantages to this method versus other methods, but it'll require very precise measurements and good fabrication skills to do it correctly. If you properly plan out the mod, the actual work is pretty simple.

Z'ing
Pros:
4 cuts (2 rear/ 2 front)
The factory steering geometry does not change
You can easily move the wheels 1" forward to center them in the openings
No steering clearance issues
No drilling/ elongating holes on the crossmember
Many more options on height (you can "Z" almost any height you wish)
Provides a real lowering option (can run stock coils and spindles, if you want)
Inexpensive

Cons:
Requires good measuring and fab skills
Need to build a jig to hold the frame rails and front frame horns in position
Need to adress the motor mounts if you want the engine to remain in the stock position
You have to trim the inner fenders for clearance

Sectioning the Crossmember
Pros:
No major frame cuts
Good info on-line (i.e: Capt Chaos's pictures, etc)
Can go back to a stock crossmember if you wish
Inexpensive

Cons:
Requires a lot of cutting and welding on the crossmember
Requires redrilling the holes on the side of the framerails
Makes it more difficult to access the alignment bolts during front-end alignment
If you want to move the wheels 1" forward, you have to redrill the frame
Can only go 1.5" before steering linkage clearance becomes an issue
Must move steering box up accordingly to eliminate potential bump steer condition
You may have to notch the driver's upper control arm for steering rod clearance


Each method has it's pros and cons. A lot of guys don't like the "Z" method because once you've cut the frame and the entire section is loose, you are 100% committed. With the crossmember method, you can do the work on a spare crossmember, and always have an option to put your stock unit back in. Some members have suggested a little bit of both. A mild "Z" of about 2" plus a mild crossmember sectioning of 1.5 can give you 3.5" extra clearance, and that's a TON. Just say you lowered your truck 5" in the front, and afterwards, you only have 2.5" of control arm clearance to the ground. Add 3.5" to that..........Hitting the LCAs on everything becomes a thing of the past, and you have a vehicle that rides like a stocker.

[Solo2002]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

Hmmm,

This procedure was not hard at all, and very basic actually.

But I can see for some, this might be a large task.

Yours looks like it came out good.

Whether you drop cup or step the LCA's, your still gonna have that hanging crossmember or LCA.

For the person who wants a small drop/rake....then I would say "no, you probably wont need this"

However, if you want a low slung body, are not ready for bags, and do not want to make contact with that manhole cover down the street.....you might wanna go this route.....
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Posted via Mobile Device

Thats what im going for to have tha lowest static drop that i can get but keep like 3 to 4 inches of clearance a 8X8 drop will be cool and i dont wanna go the bag route been there done that if i can get around them ill try my best to do so
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[Realnoisy]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Another real option to consider is Z'ing the chassis. There are a few advantages to this method versus other methods, but it'll require very precise measurements and good fabrication skills to do it correctly. If you properly plan out the mod, the actual work is pretty simple.

Z'ing
Pros:
4 cuts (2 rear/ 2 front)
The factory steering geometry does not change
You can easily move the wheels 1" forward to center them in the openings
No steering clearance issues
No drilling/ elongating holes on the crossmember
Many more options on height (you can "Z" almost any height you wish)
Provides a real lowering option (can run stock coils and spindles, if you want)
Inexpensive

Cons:
Requires good measuring and fab skills
Need to build a jig to hold the frame rails and front frame horns in position
Need to adress the motor mounts if you want the engine to remain in the stock position
You have to trim the inner fenders for clearance

Sectioning the Crossmember
Pros:
No major frame cuts
Good info on-line (i.e: Capt Chaos's pictures, etc)
Can go back to a stock crossmember if you wish
Inexpensive

Cons:
Requires a lot of cutting and welding on the crossmember
Requires redrilling the holes on the side of the framerails
Makes it more difficult to access the alignment bolts during front-end alignment
If you want to move the wheels 1" forward, you have to redrill the frame
Can only go 1.5" before steering linkage clearance becomes an issue
Must move steering box up accordingly to eliminate potential bump steer condition
You may have to notch the driver's upper control arm for steering rod clearance


Each method has it's pros and cons. A lot of guys don't like the "Z" method because once you've cut the frame and the entire section is loose, you are 100% committed. With the crossmember method, you can do the work on a spare crossmember, and always have an option to put your stock unit back in. Some members have suggested a little bit of both. A mild "Z" of about 2" plus a mild crossmember sectioning of 1.5 can give you 3.5" extra clearance, and that's a TON. Just say you lowered your truck 5" in the front, and afterwards, you only have 2.5" of control arm clearance to the ground. Add 3.5" to that..........Hitting the LCAs on everything becomes a thing of the past, and you have a vehicle that rides like a stocker.

That's some great information! Thank you Chevyrestoguy!

[Solo2002]

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by Realnoisy

The procedure (pancaking) itself is easy. What I'm talking about is the removal of the xmember and all the components to get it out. Once out, then you should power wash and clean it, measuring 10 times, locate a plasma cutter (unless you are fortunate to own one) or another method of cutting it out, shim & weld it up, buy lots of rods and grinder wheels (I probably made 3 trips to welding supply), re-install xmember and all the components for 2 inch drop. To me, it's a lot of work and time....I'm an old guy doing it this by myself and in this Texas heat (105 degrees) doesn't help matters.

OK, you didnt mention that before. You gave us pics of a loose crossmember, so I just ran with that.

We are all 'old' guys to some people ... I'm getting up there too !

I have alot of cool fab tools at my shop...but my "how-to" was done at home with basic stuff.

I just want to show how a person can do it at home, without a plasma even.

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Another real option to consider is Z'ing the chassis. There are a few advantages to this method versus other methods, but it'll require very precise measurements and good fabrication skills to do it correctly. If you properly plan out the mod, the actual work is pretty simple.

Z'ing
Pros:
4 cuts (2 rear/ 2 front)
The factory steering geometry does not change
You can easily move the wheels 1" forward to center them in the openings
No steering clearance issues
No drilling/ elongating holes on the crossmember
Many more options on height (you can "Z" almost any height you wish)
Provides a real lowering option (can run stock coils and spindles, if you want)
Inexpensive

Cons:
Requires good measuring and fab skills
Need to build a jig to hold the frame rails and front frame horns in position
Need to adress the motor mounts if you want the engine to remain in the stock position
You have to trim the inner fenders for clearance

Sectioning the Crossmember
Pros:
No major frame cuts
Good info on-line (i.e: Capt Chaos's pictures, etc)
Can go back to a stock crossmember if you wish
Inexpensive

Cons:
Requires a lot of cutting and welding on the crossmember
Requires redrilling the holes on the side of the framerails
Makes it more difficult to access the alignment bolts during front-end alignment
If you want to move the wheels 1" forward, you have to redrill the frame
Can only go 1.5" before steering linkage clearance becomes an issue
Must move steering box up accordingly to eliminate potential bump steer condition
You may have to notch the driver's upper control arm for steering rod clearance


Each method has it's pros and cons. A lot of guys don't like the "Z" method because once you've cut the frame and the entire section is loose, you are 100% committed. With the crossmember method, you can do the work on a spare crossmember, and always have an option to put your stock unit back in. Some members have suggested a little bit of both. A mild "Z" of about 2" plus a mild crossmember sectioning of 1.5 can give you 3.5" extra clearance, and that's a TON. Just say you lowered your truck 5" in the front, and afterwards, you only have 2.5" of control arm clearance to the ground. Add 3.5" to that..........Hitting the LCAs on everything becomes a thing of the past, and you have a vehicle that rides like a stocker.

Definately great info !

I like the idea of just doing the crossmember. In my case, with my '62 burban, I plan on performing a 63 and up frame swap in the future.

The crossmember will be already be done.

[Realnoisy]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

OK, you didnt mention that before. You gave us pics of a loose crossmember, so I just ran with that.

We are all 'old' guys to some people ... I'm getting up there too !

I have alot of cool fab tools at my shop...but my "how-to" was done at home with basic stuff.

I just want to show how a person can do it at home, without a plasma even.

I can't wait to see your "How To" especially the steering. Going to be tackling that very soon. Your burb is looking nice! I'm definitely going to follow your thread!

[RollinKaos]

Thanks for the info guys. I am going a static drop and want to get down as low as I can and looking at all the options out there.

[stealth_weapons]

here is what you get for clearance with an 8 inch drop in the front




but it looks b!tchin'. i only have a 4in drop in the rear right now.

[Realnoisy]

That's not bad! You didn't have to pancake xmember for an 8 inch drop.

[stealth_weapons]

Originally Posted by Realnoisy

That's not bad! You didn't have to pancake xmember for an 8 inch drop.

true but i am very limited to where i can ride around plus speed bumps and flat tires are my worst enemy. also i cant use the drive over pits for oil changes because the LCAs will hit the safety rails

[Realnoisy]

Originally Posted by stealth_weapons

true but i am very limited to where i can ride around plus speed bumps and flat tires are my worst enemy. also i cant use the drive over pits for oil changes because the LCAs will hit the safety rails

Would 1.5 inches higher make a big difference for you?

[stealth_weapons]

yes another 1.5 would be great. as of now with either of my front tires completely out of air the LCAs are about 2 sheets of paper from the smooth and level garage floor. imagine having a flat out on a road. i try to prepare for worst case scenarios, for every day cruising 1.5 may not seem like much but it is.

[tincan1966]

Here's a shot we took of mine with all air out of front bags and RF tie flat to check clearance. I had about 2 3/4" under the LCA and a little over 4" at center of crossmember.
AND I can get my speedway aluminum racing jack under the rocker on the frame!

[Solo2002]

Originally Posted by tincan1966

Here's a shot we took of mine with all air out of front bags and RF tie flat to check clearance. I had about 2 3/4" under the LCA and a little over 4" at center of crossmember.
AND I can get my speedway aluminum racing jack under the rocker on the frame!

Love the look of the truck beside your burb it's like lmao too cool
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[Bazooka]

Originally Posted by stealth_weapons

here is what you get for clearance with an 8 inch drop in the front

but it looks b!tchin'. i only have a 4in drop in the rear right now.

holy crap that would make my rearend pucker everytime i seen a bump in the road

your right it does look great tho

[tincan1966]

Originally Posted by Solo2002

Love the look of the truck beside your burb it's like lmao too cool
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LOL I never realized but you are right, it does sort of have an "OH MY GAWD" expression to it.......

[Realnoisy]

or....

[Solo2002]

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