Best way to mate pilot shaft with clutch and flywheel

[72step]

I am working on getting together a 1965 C10 230 6cyl factory four speed transmission. When I got the project the rebuilt engine and factory transmission and bell housing were all in the bed disassembled. I have been trying to install the transmission/bellhousing onto the engine and am having one heck of a time aligning it. I tryed with the engine on a slab and tryed to wrestle the transmission in. I even tryed hanging the engine and transmission on two seperate lifts and tryed wrestling it that way and a bolt broke and the engine fell and destroyed the balancer. I'm grateful I didn't get hurt but I guess I've never messed with manual transmissions much. Any tips are greatly appreciated. I'm thinking I'm going to try and get my cousin to help me as two is better than one with this dilema. Thanks.

[jj1965]

Buy an alignment tool for the clutch and make sure it is setup right. Get some long all thread and put it in your block to guide the transmission forward. One piece on each side should be good enough. I supported the engine from my cherry picker and the trans on a jack. should slide together easily if you have the clutch aligned properly.

[jocko]

oh my Lord - glad you're ok. Hope the crank snout did not get bent... Might want to check for run out before ya stick it in the truck. Sorry, but thought I'd mention.

Technically, the correct way to do what you're doing is to use a clutch alignment tool. Without it, you're stabbin in the dark. I once used a broom handle with a whittled down end to sumilate the pilot shaft, but it was pure luck it worked.

If you don't have a clutch alignment tool, you can use the i/p shaft of any old trans with the same number of teeth on the clutch hub. But you probably don't have that either - seems nobody ever does.

If unfamiliar, the way the tool works is to install the tool through the clutch disk and simply stick it into the pilot bushing. It holds the clutch centered until the pressure plate is bolted down and holds the clutch disk in place. With the tool still in, bolt the pressure plate onto the fly and then remove the tool. The clutch disk will remain in place and properly aligned - then stab the trans in through the clutch - being very careful not to bump the clutch disk real hard with the i/p shaft, knocking it out of alignment. You'll probably still have to wiggle it a bit, but will be much easier than what yo
u mention above - it's stabbing in the dark without a clutch alignment tool.

OOPS - SIMO post!

[geezer#99]

Here's a link to a pic of the tool you need.
http://www.elcaminostore.com/chevy-c...10-spline.html

[72step]

Thanks for the info guys! I wonder if the local parts stor would sell one or only with new clutch discs? I guess I could order one for $5.

How would I check the crank for runout/damage?
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[padresag]

put the bell housing on the eng separately and then install the trans to to the bellhousing. much easier.. if one has a wood lathe handy, one can make an alignment tool quite readile and it will be a better fit than you will buy. to make it easier ; there are 4 bolt holes where the trans mounts to the bell housing. the top 2 are threaded. screw in a couple of studs so that the 2 top holes of the trans can slide over them to guide it in. you can use a couple length of ready rod or a couple of bolts(4-5") cut the head off and thread them in. I could never understand why anyone would try and put the b/housing and trans in together as a unit
ron

[72step]

Originally Posted by padresag

put the bell housing on the eng separately and then install the trans to to the bellhousing. much easier.. if one has a wood lathe handy, one can make an alignment tool quite readile and it will be a better fit than you will buy. to make it easier ; there are 4 bolt holes where the trans mounts to the bell housing. the top 2 are threaded. screw in a couple of studs so that the 2 top holes of the trans can slide over them to guide it in. you can use a couple length of ready rod or a couple of bolts(4-5") cut the head off and thread them in. I could never understand why anyone would try and put the b/housing and trans in together as a unit
ron

That's the first thing I tried but I quickly figured out that the throw out bearing is tough to put in if you do that so I figured the other way was the right way. In most car transmissions what you say might be the case but this old school granny gear tranny is a freakin boat anchor. The bell housing is a a feather weight compared to it so in a sense I thought it was easier because you can grab the bell housing from the outside for leverage.

[tincan1966]

It's easier to install the release bearing on the fork then install bellhousin, then insert two long guide bolts, as suggested and slide trans on. If you do it this way, you are almost guaranteed to be aligned going in and prevent damage to the clutch disc.

Alot of us have done alot of these type trannys, and this is the better way.

[72step]

Originally Posted by tincan1966

It's easier to install the release bearing on the fork then install bellhousin, then insert two long guide bolts, as suggested and slide trans on. If you do it this way, you are almost guaranteed to be aligned going in and prevent damage to the clutch disc.

Alot of us have done alot of these type trannys, and this is the better way.

Okay, I will do that. I need to find me clutch alignment tool also. What years chevys have the same splines for these?

[geezer#99]

There's only 2 sizes.
10 spline and 26 spline.
Yours is probably 10 spline.