Cheap performance mods thread!

[Wallee]

Post your cheap hp gain performance mods, can be anything as long as its cheap! So we have a figure of cheap I would say anything 200 dollars and under could be considered cheap when you think of what could be spent on a engine.
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[prostreetC-10]

Quite simply in the number one spot should be the black 4 HOLE phenolic 1" carb spacer.

Number two could be long tube headers.

[Wallee]

Originally Posted by prostreetC-10

Quite simply in the number one spot should be the black 4 HOLE phenolic 1" carb spacer.

Number two could be long tube headers.

Carb spacer, any info on how it works? Excuse my ignorance on spacers but how do they work and how much power increase are we talkin?
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[prostreetC-10]

In a nutshell....they isolate the carb from heat and extend the throttle bores in the base plate by 1". This gives the fuel a little more time to atomize before it is whirled into the intake runners. They can be great for our trucks in helping the low end torque. On general street applications, you should run a 4 hole on both dual plane and open plenum intakes. Must be careful when using on spread bore intakes. Usually will require a thin steel plate for proper mating. It's not that they provide a tone of HP, it's that the HP gains to cost of item is really good. Could be in the 3-8 HP range or more. What I seem to notice is a pickup in throttle response.

[Wallee]

Originally Posted by prostreetC-10

In a nutshell....they isolate the carb from heat and extend the throttle bores in the base plate by 1". This gives the fuel a little more time to atomize before it is whirled into the intake runners. They can be great for our trucks in helping the low end torque. On general street applications, you should run a 4 hole on both dual plane and open plenum intakes. Must be careful when using on spread bore intakes. Usually will require a thin steel plate for proper mating. It's not that they provide a tone of HP, it's that the HP gains to cost of item is really good. Could be in the 3-8 HP range or more. What I seem to notice is a pickup in throttle response.

Nice! Love the detailed information, I might have to look into doing that on my truck.
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[prostreetC-10]

Actually....I'm going to change the number one spot. I think the best and cheapest performance mod is to have someone that knows what the hell they are doing perform a tuneup on said vehicle. Nice parts that are not properly tuned/setup do not provide performance gains! You can gain/lose tons of hp just by having a carb and timing all messed up!

[Wallee]

Your right about that for sure!
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[Coley]

Definitely 'ditto' on the tune-up comments posted by Pro-Street. The other mods (under $200) that come to mind would be either an aluminum intake (dual plane) manifold and/or a set of reasonable exhaust headers. These would/could be economical if bought as quality used....and I'm a big fan of that!!!
Now, back to the carb spacer...that is really interesting. I thought that they were best for high rpm advantage, not lower rpm torque? I'm not sure where I got that 'high rpm advantage' info, it isn't from experience either way.
If that is the case.....hmmmm, I'm going to look into that mod a little further.
Question: what about the aluminum carb spacers? (note: it seems to me that the aluminum ones...which there are a lot of....would transfer heat just like the cast or aluminum intakes....so I'm not sure why the alum. ones would be much good). The phenolic ones (non-metal) sure make a lot more sense for heat isolation to me.
Good thread guys...keep the ideas and feedback comin'.
Coley

[geezer#99]

You're right Coley about the heat transfer part. You know they make them out of wood too!!

[C-10 simplex]

i agree with the tuneup----get the ignition dialed in precise for the engine.


Also, i think theres transmission modulator thing that can either be adjusted (free) or replaced ($12) to provide higher rpm shift points.

Also, if quadrajet then different metering rods and jets. Cheap.

[dmw319]

Originally Posted by prostreetC-10

In a nutshell....they isolate the carb from heat and extend the throttle bores in the base plate by 1". This gives the fuel a little more time to atomize before it is whirled into the intake runners. They can be great for our trucks in helping the low end torque. On general street applications, you should run a 4 hole on both dual plane and open plenum intakes. Must be careful when using on spread bore intakes. Usually will require a thin steel plate for proper mating. It's not that they provide a tone of HP, it's that the HP gains to cost of item is really good. Could be in the 3-8 HP range or more. What I seem to notice is a pickup in throttle response.

I have one I just put on my intake (which I think is a spread bore) but I dont have a thin steel plate (there was one but it seemed redundant so I took it out). Truck seems to run fine though? Hmmm

[BMERDOC]

C-10 Simplex is right about the ignition. Timing, not just initial, but how it advances and how far it advances really makes an improvement. More reseach and tinkering involved and the parts don't cost a lot.

[Wallee]

Originally Posted by C-10 simplex

i agree with the tuneup----get the ignition dialed in precise for the engine.


Also, i think theres transmission modulator thing that can either be adjusted (free) or replaced ($12) to provide higher rpm shift points.

Also, if quadrajet then different metering rods and jets. Cheap.

On that quadrajet thing, new metering rods and jets? Any certain kind of jets? Hard to do?
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[Coley]

Originally Posted by Wallee

On that quadrajet thing, new metering rods and jets? Any certain kind of jets? Hard to do?
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No, not hard to do..but you have to figure out if you actually need to to begin with and what your particular engine needs.
Usually just a carb rebuild restores a lot of power through the better tuning. After that you have to find out which carb you have....then check to see what rods and jets you have in it. From there you can start with just changing the rods....this leaves your idle, low speed alone and changes your mid throttle.
You can bring on the secondaries sooner by adjusting the 'opening point' on the left (passenger side) of the carb....but be careful. Too much adjustment here will create bog.
Coley

[Wallee]

Originally Posted by Coley

No, not hard to do..but you have to figure out if you actually need to to begin with and what your particular engine needs.
Usually just a carb rebuild restores a lot of power through the better tuning. After that you have to find out which carb you have....then check to see what rods and jets you have in it. From there you can start with just changing the rods....this leaves your idle, low speed alone and changes your mid throttle.
You can bring on the secondaries sooner by adjusting the 'opening point' on the left (passenger side) of the carb....but be careful. Too much adjustment here will create bog.
Coley

Thanks! I might check into that, anyone else liking all these ideas!?
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[Gumby]

a higher stall torque convertor, best seat of the pants mod ever. I don't come around corners and have to open all 4 for a laugh, just flash to TC to stall speed

[cdowns]

REMOVE WEIGHT a noticable amount of weight reduced give a noticable measureable differance in performance FREE
SYNTHETICS rear and tranny spin easier wheel bearings roll easier

less airflow under a vehicle cause less drag// i've built front air dams for less than a hundred

[C-10 simplex]

RE: the metering rods/jets etc. Yes, find out what you have for a baseline and then you may only have to go bigger one size and that may have a noticeable effect.

[cableguy0]

The absolute cheapest power you can get is setting the timing and ignition curve properly. A weight and spring kit for an hei is 9 bucks. In most cases between setting the curve and timing properly its worth 25+ horsepower for under 10 bucks and an hours work.

[kikkegek]

I would suggest loosing the ugly flex-fan or fan-clutch and installing a electrical fan.

engine will rev easier, because you loose the heavy fan and you will gain a couple of HP.

the mod is easy and will cost you under $100,-

engine bay will also look much cleaner.

and then make a fanshroud using:
http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54...FanShroud.html

[Gumby]

Ive done em all, inake, carb, ign mods, exhaust

Only mod that was ever an instant "oh my" giggle like a school girl every time, was my TC upgrade. And its only a 2200 stall 12" from ACC accperformance.com

would like a 2800 10" now

[prostreetC-10]

Originally Posted by cdowns

REMOVE WEIGHT a noticable amount of weight reduced give a noticable measureable differance in performance FREE
SYNTHETICS rear and tranny spin easier wheel bearings roll easier

less airflow under a vehicle cause less drag// i've built front air dams for less than a hundred

What sucks is sometimes removing weight can be very expensive because some things must be replaced with a lighter part. Lighter part = racing part (sometimes) = $$$.

I know what you meant though. I reduced friction by going with this thing they call a rolling.....or roller cam. Not cheap either!

[terry b]

steal a car with a great motor and put it in your truck.

[Coley]

Another inexpensive one is to switch from the stock 1.5:1 ratio rockers to the 1.6:1.
This adds lift to the valves which gives the same results as a mild cam changeout...without changing the cam. You would see a noticeable improvement in your low end torque and response straight away.
Ideally the rockers would be roller or equivalent...and you might get a good deal locally (used) or thereabouts.
Coley

[prostreetC-10]

Just be careful because that can add .030 of lift or more (or less). Don't want to take springs that might be at there limit and send them into coil bind or something else. Granted...there is a lot to take into consideration in this area.