To pull the trans or not? That is the ?

[Wallee]

Here I am going to show pics of a 69 chevy I bought a few weeks ago that the guy who installed the trans on obv. was a complete fool but that is ok I bought it as a project. I am going to post several pics and questions to follow with the ultimate question being should it be taken completly out or try to repair what is going on now... Ok so as of now it wont shift on the go unless you let off the gas put in netural and back to drive for all gears. It will click in reverse and drive(first) right away.


First what is this I am looking at here on the top right side towards the engine. Is it the Vent?


Second, This kickdown cable that goes to the carb looks to be chewed up! How do I get it out, I took the little bolt out of the plastic and the cable is down in the trans, Do I need to drop the pan to get it out??


Third, You see those parking brake cables stuffed tight as a fiddle string on top of the trans? I think those are supposed to be hanging under the trans not on top, am I correct here??


Fourth, Do you think from what you see here that the front seal is leaking?



Fifth, Check this dipstick tube, looks to be leaking like crazy?


Sixth, Other end of the kickdown cable


Seventh, Speedometer cable is supposed to go here buttttt, The cable from the stock speedo has a screw on adapter and this thing your looking at here has no threads to screw it on so what the hell am I missing lol???


Eighth, Shifter looks to be weaping can you tell?


Ninth, Rear seal, Think it needs to be replaced? Looks wet to me.


Tenth, Pics of the pan leaks!



Last but not least! This vacume? hose keeps coming unhooked so is that keeping it from shifting as well?? As pictured is how it was last time we tried to drive (unknowingly).

[Hubscrub]

wow, yes the vacuum hose not connect will mess up the shifts. The dip sick should have a seal around it and you'll need a kick down cable, it should disconnect under the big black part form the trans try pulling it up some to see if it's hooked to another part in the trans. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

[jsbgump]

The first pic is the vent. second the cable has a wire type hook thaat goes through an eyelet on the bottom of the cable. The e-brake cables should be under the trans. The dipstick should have a seal sither a oring or a bushing type seal. I would worry about the trans pan seal first and go from there on the rear and input seals. The vacuum line is to large for the vacuum modulator on the trans. The spedo I have no clue what to tell you there.

[LMREESE]

Any idea what tranny that is? I'm not big on autos but if it were mine and it was a project truck that I didn't need to drive for awhile, I'd pull it and go through everything. You'll know alot better what all needs fixed after you get it on the bench.
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[spatz]

the modulator is at the rear of the trans it is a turbo 350 three speed. the leaks appear to be from the tv cable which you will be replacing and from the dip stick tube. fix those two areas and wash the trans down and check for a pan leak. looks like the fluid is running from the dipstick tube and being blown back. good luck

[SS Tim]

That looks like a junkyard rip out trans with the TV cable all stretched and torn up. The missing threaded portion of the speedo drive adapter with the plug in it is another factor that tells me to just do it. At a minimun pull the trans to inspect, reseal multiple leaks and get a feel of what I fear is a near usless core. Wonder what the T/C looks like inside?

[Wallee]

Ok so some are saying pull it and some are saying to fix a few things like the dipstick and see what happens. The thing I have to ask is the reason the trans isnt shifting? Because of the vacume being off or? Also I have to ask you SS Tim how does that TV cable come out??

[SS Tim]

The "Detent Cable" actually is not that hard to change. You unbolt the cable at the trans. case and pull it out against the internal full throttle stop. Hold the clip and detach the cable end. Attach the new cable, insert into case and install retainer bolt. If you are trying to do this in the truck fish the cable up after it is attached to the trans.. Be aware there is a service procedure for adjusting the cable. Still, I think pulling and cleaning is the best way to start. ID it, the governor, the speedo drive gear and determine what adapter and gear is going to be correct for you application.

[Wallee]

So I pull it to a point where it will unhook? Then attach a new one?
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[Wallee]

Also to check the vent can I run a wire in it to make sure it's open?
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[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by Wallee

So I pull it to a point where it will unhook? Then attach a new one?
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Yes, just hold the hook with something like needlenose pliers while swapping cables.

[Wallee]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Yes, just hold the hook with something like needlenose pliers while swapping cables.

Picked up a cable on my lunch break! Swapping when I get off going to try and see if it will shift with the vacume attached and this detent cable hooked up correctly!
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[faribran]

i would try to get it to shift correctly and address some of the leaks.. may not have to pull the tranny

[Wallee]

Does the dipstick tube just slip out?
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[RPBurris]

If the outside looks that bad just imagine what the inside is like!! If you are planning on pulling the motor anyway just do it all at the same time. You can bring your trans to any shop and it will be way cheaper and faster for them to rebuild your trans. Lots and lots of issues here.

[CC69Rat]

I'd just pull it all and go through it. If you fix one leak and increase pressure in another area, etc. .. I'd say it's just going to be one after another, just small pesky problem.

Sometimes it's easier (and cheaper) just to do it one time and be done with it. You can trust it to at least get you home and be safe, etc .. Not saying dump $1,000 into a rebuild but this way you can check the front seal issues, etc. To me that looks like the rear main leaking .. but sometimes it's tough to tell until it's apart.

Do you have a lift to work on it? Is this your daily driver?

All these trucks are a little moist underneath. they all 'mark their territory' to a point but I'm just seeing too many small issues. Personally man, I'd pull it and just start back from a clean solid point.

[Wallee]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

I'd just pull it all and go through it. If you fix one leak and increase pressure in another area, etc. .. I'd say it's just going to be one after another, just small pesky problem.

Sometimes it's easier (and cheaper) just to do it one time and be done with it. You can trust it to at least get you home and be safe, etc .. Not saying dump $1,000 into a rebuild but this way you can check the front seal issues, etc. To me that looks like the rear main leaking .. but sometimes it's tough to tell until it's apart.

Do you have a lift to work on it? Is this your daily driver?

All these trucks are a little moist underneath. they all 'mark their territory' to a point but I'm just seeing too many small issues. Personally man, I'd pull it and just start back from a clean solid point.

I don't have a lift but dropping the trans on the ground will be doable with a jack, it is being built to be my daily driver so I don't really want to skip around my father in law just keeps telling me to try and fix it while it's in but I on the other hand have always wanted to just pull it and start from new. I might just pull it tonight and check the rear seal as well... Lots of work to be done on this truck ha ha!
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[GMCJOE]

I suggest pulling it, take it to a transmission shop and have them go thru it. Sometimes if they open them up, they see that everything is still good and just reseal them. Yours seem to have been ran leaking and not shifting correctly for sometime. The PO probably has ran it low on fluid several times. Possibly has some damages done to the internals. I would say at minimum, after getting the cable replaced and vacuum hooked up, find out if it seems to shift correctly and not slip. Then pull it, reseal the front and tail, pull the pan replace the filter and pan seal. Though, none of this will guarantee that it won't take a crap on you short after doing this.
Take it to a transmission shop, if you can afford to and have them do there magic on it. That's your best bet.

[Wallee]

Originally Posted by GMCJOE

I suggest pulling it, take it to a transmission shop and have them go thru it. Sometimes if they open them up, they see that everything is still good and just reseal them. Yours seem to have been ran leaking and not shifting correctly for sometime. The PO probably has ran it low on fluid several times. Possibly has some damages done to the internals. I would say at minimum, after getting the cable replaced and vacuum hooked up, find out if it seems to shift correctly and not slip. Then pull it, reseal the front and tail, pull the pan replace the filter and pan seal. Though, none of this will guarantee that it won't take a crap on you short after doing this.
Take it to a transmission shop, if you can afford to and have them do there magic on it. That's your best bet.

I am probably going to do exactly what you stated here and more than likely it's gonna be rebuilt!
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[CC69Rat]

Might as well put a shift kit in it while it's apart. I had a TH350 built to hold about 450hp once and they did something with removing 'every other' spring (?? .. not sure what that means) to get it to really shift firm. Man, .. I tell ya .. It was in a 69 Camaro with a built LT1 (0010 block, +.0040, steel crank, pink rods, 286 cam, 3310, headers, etc.. ) It would FLY. 2800 TCI converter, 3:42.

You'll be much happier knowing it has been gone through. Just be careful underneath it, make sure the truck is secured and you have another jack to brace the back of the engine. ..

Or, if you can, just pull engine and trans. (?) I usually just snatch them out all as one piece. ..

[Wallee]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

Might as well put a shift kit in it while it's apart. I had a TH350 built to hold about 450hp once and they did something with removing 'every other' spring (?? .. not sure what that means) to get it to really shift firm. Man, .. I tell ya .. It was in a 69 Camaro with a built LT1 (0010 block, +.0040, steel crank, pink rods, 286 cam, 3310, headers, etc.. ) It would FLY. 2800 TCI converter, 3:42.

You'll be much happier knowing it has been gone through. Just be careful underneath it, make sure the truck is secured and you have another jack to brace the back of the engine. ..

Or, if you can, just pull engine and trans. (?) I usually just snatch them out all as one piece. ..

I wish I had a lift if I did I would pull the engine as well and at least clean it up ya know?
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[SS Tim]

Rent a hoist after everything is loosened up and ready to pull. First buy yourself a manual because it does not sound like you have any reference other than the board on this trans. A factory service manual and a factory chassis overhaul manual together, will go a long ways towards clearing up your truck knowledge.

If you do pull the trans. and engine together make sure you pull the converter to flexplate bolts while it is still in the truck.

[BLAZERMAN]

What ever you do get rid of that chrome dipstick tube!!, you can find a good oem or go to any GM dealer and get one. If you put that one back in it will more than likely continue to leak.

[68 TT]

That tail housing looks like it came off a third gen Camaro trans with a torque arm mount. The early ones could have a non-overdrive trans but they are not very common. I am more inclined to think it is from a 700R4. I know the early bolt pattern interchanges with a T-350 but I don't know if the speedo gears & bushing are in the right place for it to work properly.

Do you have a pic of the whole bottom of the trans pan so we can ID it?

With so many things wrong with the install I would be inclined to drop the trans and have it checked out by a trans shop. Who knows what else is wrong with it.

You can always put a rebuilt one in its place and turn that one in as a core.

[cris well]

I'd put a new 'tight fitting' rubber line on the modulator (vacuum) line first and see if it shifts properly (you may have to put one on the top side also).

And fix the dipstick tube with an o-ring or some kind of sealer.

It may last a while like it is.