Making a valve compressor tool =) - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Russell · 10-14-2003, 07:06 PM

Hello =)

I've gotta change out my valve seals, and get this engine put back together, and being the poor kid I am, I can't afford to get a real tool, and I'm sure it'll take me longer than a day to replace all the seals, so I need to make a tool of my own, anyone have any ideas for it?

I'm just gonna pull the heads to work on the valve seals, I should replace the gaskets in the heads anyways... Any complications that may arise from such an action?

*Zilverado* · 10-14-2003, 08:11 PM

Unfortunately, I do not have a digital camera with me right now, or I could take a photo of the tool I made last summer to do the job. I bought one at a local tool store - it was garbage, so I made my own. Now, I have both a cutting torch and a welder to make it easier. I'll try and explain it to you.

BTW, I only removed the valve covers, not the complete head to do mine. I imagine if you take the heads right off, you could come up with all kinds of ways to skin this cat.

What I did (start your imagination)...

- I took a flat piece of steel 2" x 2 1/4" x 1/4" thick.
- I torched a u-shaped notch in from one end, approx. 3/4" wide x 1" long - this fits over the valve spring retainer, around the valve stem.
- I then drilled a 3/8" hole approx 1" from the other end - this fits over the rocker stud (see where I'm going with this?).
- I then welded this plate to a stiff bar (mine was 1/2" x 3/4" x 14" long), forming a 90 degree angle - sort of like a 90 degree pry bar.
- ....and that's it.

I then used the rocker stud as a fulcrum.
- remove the rocker.
- place the 3/8" hole over the stud, with the u-shaped notch on the valve spring retainer, place the nut back on the rocker stud.
- now you are able to pull back on the bar, forcing the spring to compress.
- .... then go from there.

Oh, yah, I did have to cut and reweld my handle when I did the cylinder next to the brake booster. Of course, if you remove the heads, you won't need to worry about that.

That's it. I wish I had a digital camera to post a pic, but the mental image will have to do.

Have fun

*1FaastC10* · 10-14-2003, 09:12 PM

that's what i have, and i love it. the best 21.99 i ever spent!

Frank-id · 10-14-2003, 09:45 PM

Do not remove heads to replace valve seals. This is an easy task orcan be very involved.....
My recommendations are.......
only change the intake seals, use the ford type 5/16 inch umbrella seals, andget/buy tool for compressing valve springs while heads still on engine.An air compressor is required to change seals.
A tool that is required is an old spark plug. The spark plug must have the porceline, center electrode and ground removed. A short male quick air hose disconnect needs to be welded or brazed to the spark plug where center electrode was located.
Method of replacing seals is......
remove distributor cap to observe rotor position, remove both valve rocker covers,remove all spark plugs, and have method of turning engine over to each cylinder. The firing order for sbc is 18436572 and rotor will rotate clockwise as viewed over dist. Turn engine by some method till rotor is pointing at number one cylinder and verified by viewing timing mark on harmonic balancer and timing mark. The piston does not need to be exactly at top dead center to change seal. Next the tool for air connection is screwed into head , for the first one, do number one, front drivers side.
Connect air hose to fitting, which will pressure the cylinder and hold valves closed. Next remove rocker arm on intake valve. Use valve spring compression tool, made by KD #912, to compress valve spring and remove 2 valve keepers. Slowly relax pressure on spring tool and remove tool and spring. The oil seal can now be seen. Remove old seal and install umbrella seal over valve stem with a little grease. Reassemble the valve with the spring, retainer and 2 keepers.
The rocker can be assembled later after the other seals are changed.
The valves can be adjusted after all the valves parts have been reassembled.
Now is the time to adjust all the rockers. I usually release the rockers untill a loud clacking is heard and then rocker nuts are slowly tightened untill all noise is stopped and just 1/2 turn tighter.... I do this adjustment several times.

Frank-id · 10-14-2003, 09:47 PM

Here is da KD tool #912

*Zilverado* · 10-14-2003, 11:12 PM

Hey those manufacturer's stole my idea!!!!!!!

Russell · 10-14-2003, 11:19 PM

Looks easy enough to fab =) Thanks for everything!!

soleeagle · 10-15-2003, 12:17 AM

I have one of those tools too, I love it. I like the idea of using an old plug to use air in the cylinder.

10-14-2003, 07:06 PM	#1
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Making a valve compressor tool =) Hello =) I've gotta change out my valve seals, and get this engine put back together, and being the poor kid I am, I can't afford to get a real tool, and I'm sure it'll take me longer than a day to replace all the seals, so I need to make a tool of my own, anyone have any ideas for it? I'm just gonna pull the heads to work on the valve seals, I should replace the gaskets in the heads anyways... Any complications that may arise from such an action? __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

10-14-2003, 08:11 PM	#2
Zilverado Account Suspended Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 798	Hey there, Fellow Canuck :D Unfortunately, I do not have a digital camera with me right now, or I could take a photo of the tool I made last summer to do the job. I bought one at a local tool store - it was garbage, so I made my own. Now, I have both a cutting torch and a welder to make it easier. I'll try and explain it to you. BTW, I only removed the valve covers, not the complete head to do mine. I imagine if you take the heads right off, you could come up with all kinds of ways to skin this cat. What I did (start your imagination)... - I took a flat piece of steel 2" x 2 1/4" x 1/4" thick. - I torched a u-shaped notch in from one end, approx. 3/4" wide x 1" long - this fits over the valve spring retainer, around the valve stem. - I then drilled a 3/8" hole approx 1" from the other end - this fits over the rocker stud (see where I'm going with this?). - I then welded this plate to a stiff bar (mine was 1/2" x 3/4" x 14" long), forming a 90 degree angle - sort of like a 90 degree pry bar. - ....and that's it. I then used the rocker stud as a fulcrum. - remove the rocker. - place the 3/8" hole over the stud, with the u-shaped notch on the valve spring retainer, place the nut back on the rocker stud. - now you are able to pull back on the bar, forcing the spring to compress. - .... then go from there. Oh, yah, I did have to cut and reweld my handle when I did the cylinder next to the brake booster. Of course, if you remove the heads, you won't need to worry about that. That's it. I wish I had a digital camera to post a pic, but the mental image will have to do. Have fun

10-14-2003, 09:45 PM	#4
Frank-id Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Twin Falls, Idaho Posts: 73	Replacing sbc valve seals Do not remove heads to replace valve seals. This is an easy task orcan be very involved..... My recommendations are....... only change the intake seals, use the ford type 5/16 inch umbrella seals, andget/buy tool for compressing valve springs while heads still on engine.An air compressor is required to change seals. A tool that is required is an old spark plug. The spark plug must have the porceline, center electrode and ground removed. A short male quick air hose disconnect needs to be welded or brazed to the spark plug where center electrode was located. Method of replacing seals is...... remove distributor cap to observe rotor position, remove both valve rocker covers,remove all spark plugs, and have method of turning engine over to each cylinder. The firing order for sbc is 18436572 and rotor will rotate clockwise as viewed over dist. Turn engine by some method till rotor is pointing at number one cylinder and verified by viewing timing mark on harmonic balancer and timing mark. The piston does not need to be exactly at top dead center to change seal. Next the tool for air connection is screwed into head , for the first one, do number one, front drivers side. Connect air hose to fitting, which will pressure the cylinder and hold valves closed. Next remove rocker arm on intake valve. Use valve spring compression tool, made by KD #912, to compress valve spring and remove 2 valve keepers. Slowly relax pressure on spring tool and remove tool and spring. The oil seal can now be seen. Remove old seal and install umbrella seal over valve stem with a little grease. Reassemble the valve with the spring, retainer and 2 keepers. The rocker can be assembled later after the other seals are changed. The valves can be adjusted after all the valves parts have been reassembled. Now is the time to adjust all the rockers. I usually release the rockers untill a loud clacking is heard and then rocker nuts are slowly tightened untill all noise is stopped and just 1/2 turn tighter.... I do this adjustment several times. Attached Images __________________ Chevy stepper 400sb 350 turbo

10-14-2003, 09:47 PM	#5
Frank-id Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Twin Falls, Idaho Posts: 73	spring compressor tool Here is da KD tool #912 Attached Images __________________ Chevy stepper 400sb 350 turbo Last edited by Frank-id; 10-14-2003 at 11:23 PM.

10-14-2003, 11:19 PM	#7
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Looks easy enough to fab =) Thanks for everything!! __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

10-14-2003, 09:12 PM	#3
1FaastC10 Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Elkhart, IN Posts: 6,400	that's what i have, and i love it. the best 21.99 i ever spent!

10-14-2003, 11:12 PM	#6
Zilverado Account Suspended Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 798	Hey those manufacturer's stole my idea!!!!!!!

10-15-2003, 12:17 AM	#8
soleeagle Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Shelbyville, Indiana Posts: 614	I have one of those tools too, I love it. I like the idea of using an old plug to use air in the cylinder. __________________ Chuck '85 Chevy Silverado 4X4 '91 Chevy 4X4 Suburban http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/545941



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