Control arm bushings

[gchemist]

Has anyone replaced their A-arm bushings? I have one that is making noise. I suspect it's a lower one. Looking at parts from www.rockauto.com, replacing the upper shafts as a whole kit is worth it. The lower A-arms don't come in kits. Sets of bushing for both sides are available. Has anyone tried to replace them without unbolting everything? I mean not removing the coil to replace the lower bushings? My mechanic says he had done it.

[BarryB]

I've done it but I took mine off. I guess you could do it without disassembling the whole thing. leave the shock attached. put a jack under the bottom, jack stands under frame. take the two bolts loose then release the jack slowly. If you get to the bushings you need to figure out a way to press out the old and in the new. But in my opinion, I'd just take them off and have them pressed out and in at a shop if you don't have a shop press. probably save a lot of busted knuckles and cussing.

[90\87Formula]

I replaced the uppers in my '85 Blazer. I took mine completely off. Had to get a shop press them on.
I've got an '84 Extended cab that needs them now.

[gchemist]

Okay, ball joints were replaced today. Well, the passenger side upper arm bushings are shot! One is almost completely gone!! The rear one is barely holding on. The front one is missing an entire large piece. The upper arm was causing all the clunking noise. I order a set of polygraphite bushings from http://www.p-s-t.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2405/.f?sc=12
They are same style bushings I have on my C10 truck. These will stiffen the front end really nice.

The arms will be removed tomorrow. I plan on sand blasting them and painting them. I'll snap some pictures.

[1ATony]

We carry the control arms and bushings for these Chevy Blazers. Here's a link to them on our website if you would like to see what we carry.

Chevy Blazer Control Arm

[gchemist]

A picture of the upper A-arm bushings.



210,000+ miles beat them good. The new polygraphite bushings will arrive tomorrow hopefully. It will take time top put it all together again. It it may be until Tue or Wed before it's ready. Straight to the font end alignment shop afterwards.

[gchemist]

Can someone look at their upper control arm bushngs? I would like to know if there are washers on the inside of the bushings. We were cleaning up the parts when we noticed that only one shaft had only one washer on the inside. Inside being near the adjust bolt holes. The new bushings arrived today. My mechanis will start to installing today. I'm going over on Monday to help compress the coil. I ended up replacing all the ball joints as a maintenance.

[BarryB]

Did you ever say exactly what truck you were working on. 2wd 4wd? If 2wd I can go look at mine. 4wd someone else will have to chime in.

[gchemist]

My Jimmy is a 2WD and four doors. Thanks!!

[gchemist]

Ok, I like the new polygraphite bushings!! I can feel the suspension increased stiffness. I can hear them squeek a little. The squeek should go away after they break in. The front alignment went well. We tried to install the coil springs the same direction. The coil springs were slightly curved. Now my Jimmy has the front end higher than the rear. I'll have to measure to know the difference. It was nearly level with the helper rear springs.

I definately notice the wheel to fender gap increase. Hopefully, the coils will settle back into place. Now I feel the rear loose. Even with 1500 lb helper springs, the rear is way loose compared to the front. I feel the stops better too. The front does not dip like it did before the new bushings. I definately feel the power going to the rear wheels. Now even on dry pavement, at WOT, it can bark both tires. :biggrin: I should change out the motor mounts and tranny mounts for more power to the rear wheels. Now it need a nice long drive to break in the bushings.

[jhaymon]

well i guess you already got em in. so for future readers. theres only one washer on each upper control arm kingpin.you either have to remove the starter on the pass side or remove the retainer bolts. i use a ball joint tool to press the bolt out. if for some reason you try to pres the bushing in using the kingpin and bend the uppers like my buddy did last weekend, the whole control arm with bushing and ball joints cost about 120 at a parts house(160 if you want the top of the line). :side note: they are the same uppers and lowers as a monte carlo or an el camino if you want to upgrade to tubular control arms.
dont tighten the king pin bolts or the lower control arms bolt till you have a load on the front end. if you tighten it up with out a load, the bushings will tear.

bad bushings is a pretty common issue on s-10s with the 4.3. the exhaust is less the an inch away from the pass upper rear control arm bushing. it gets too hot and melts. poly bushing will not solve this problem so make sure to replace the oe skirt or use an after-market heat shield even if your running headers. you can get them from summit for tubular control arms, but i believe spohn makes an after-market heat shield that you can buy for oe control arms.

[gchemist]

jhaymon,
Thanks for the added info.

I like the new bushings. Now, I'm really temped to install new motor mounts. I can't believe how much power was being lost to the bad bushings. I definately recommend the polygraphite bushings.

Now that you mention the car compatability, I'm thinking of lowering mine. I would like to close the wheel gap by 1-1.5 inches.

[jhaymon]

when i bought my little s-10 i swore i wouldn't go overboard. i decided it would sound better with a v8 in it so i found an ls1 and dropped it in. I couldnt get it to hook up so i put an eaton posi rear. it sat to hight and corners like a tank so i put the qa1 coil over conversion on mine and tubular control arms from spohn on mine. i used belltech 2" lowering spindles and put a 4 link in the rear. rides like a dream and i still get good milage, but i think the paint need to be updated.

[GMCJOE]

Originally Posted by jhaymon

i use a ball joint tool to press the bolt out. if for some reason you try to press the bushing in using the kingpin and bend the uppers like my buddy did last weekend

I did the same thing putting mine back in on my 94. I just took a large enough socket and a hammer, hammered in between and put the holes back in there original positions. They flex very easily. Ball joint press works wonders on control arm bushings. It took me almost 2 8-10 hr days to do both sides of uppers and lowers, although I did rebuild the hole front end on that thing at the same time. Original equipement does not like coming apart after 18 years of abuse, especially when PO's used the 4x4 for its purpose.