Disc Brake Conversion Question

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by dcramos72

luvbowties,

Thanks so much for all of the info. I just drilled a hole 1" lower on the brake pedal bar and unfortunately no diff.

I think you might be on to something regarding my pedal not pushing completely into the MC. When I was bench bleeding the MC, at the end it got to the point where I could barely push the piston in, so I figured it was fully bled. I would assume if the booster rod was pushing into the MC I would encounter that same resistance, but like I sad it goes right to the floor very easily. I'm gonna call Early Classics as well to see if they know anything about a spacer. Like I said I'm pretty sure the piston I was pushing against was flat with no shape at all, but to bleed it I did have to stick a phillips in to the MC about 1" to contact the piston.

One question. When the motor is running the pedal goes to the floor very easily, but when I turn off the motor there is a bit more resistance in the pedal. Any reason for that?

Also this is a dual MC kit with dual front lines and proportioning valve. There is a thick (rear) line and a thin (front) line coming of the PV. Thick line goes to the rear and thin line breaks off to the calipers. Doesn't seem to be any leaks and I did bleed all wheels after I hooked up the MC.

Thanks!

Dan

((One question. When the motor is running the pedal goes to the floor very easily, but when I turn off the motor there is a bit more resistance in the pedal. Any reason for that?))...That is good: it shows your booster is 'boosting' and making it easier to depress the brake pedal while running, which is the correct thing for it to do.

I still think the little spacer is going to be the solution. I read about some 'Corvette-style' mc's last nite, & the site mentioned it included an 'adapter' for the different style mc.

This site mentions the different mc's, the deep-hole and the shallow-hole. Don't see the site mentioning including the adapter right now(gotta go meet my walking buddies).
>> http://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/...cat/cat210.htm <<

[CRGRS 66]

Thank you to the OP, and all who have posted. It is just such a tremendous education hanging out on this forum. I will be doing a similar upgrade this winter, one more bit of knowledge that may save me time and agro.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by luvbowties

((One question. When the motor is running the pedal goes to the floor very easily, but when I turn off the motor there is a bit more resistance in the pedal. Any reason for that?))...That is good: it shows your booster is 'boosting' and making it easier to depress the brake pedal while running, which is the correct thing for it to do.

I still think the little spacer is going to be the solution. I read about some 'Corvette-style' mc's last nite, & the site mentioned it included an 'adapter' for the different style mc.

This site mentions the different mc's, the deep-hole and the shallow-hole. Don't see the site mentioning including the adapter right now(gotta go meet my walking buddies).
>> http://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/...cat/cat210.htm <<

Ok, here's a site that mentions, very briefly, the deep-bore adapter
>> http://www.performanceonline.com/Dru...Type-MC-82016/ <<.

And here are 2 pics I found on another forum's site that show how the same mod can be done by adapting a longer-or-shorter pushrod out of the booster to accomplish the same thing. Pics show 2 diff. boosters--older one for a shallow-bore and newer one that adjusts for either mc by adding/removing a screw-on booster-rod-lengthener/shortener [Still haven't found a pic of an actual bore-plug adapter--it is so simple to make one. I experimented w/a round wooden rod from Lowe's to get the correct length:so cheap & easy to cut and trim, and cut another one if you cut it too short, etc. You want to have a tad of clearance between your booster-rod and piston-adapter (or piston itself if using a shallow-bore mc)].

>> http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20...r/101_8025.jpg <<

>> http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20...r/101_8026.jpg <<

[luvbowties]

...and finally a pic of an adapter, thanks to CPP. Look about halfway down the site.

> http://www.classicperform.com/TechBo...ot.htm#pushrod <

[dcramos72]

Wow,

Fantastic info bowties. Thanks!

I called Early Classics and explained everything. They said their booster and mc do not need a spacer or adapter and should work together right out of the box. They advised that I try rebleeding everything as it takes a lot of bleeding to get the full system fully pressured. I will try this and if it doesn't work give them a call back or try an adpater.

I defintitely have the 1" bore from looking at pics on CPP.

I wonder if there is anyone else out there that has bought a kit from Early Classics and had this same issue?

Thanks again for all of the info. I'll let you know how things progress.

Dan