Disc Brake Conversion Question

[dcramos72]

Yes, bought the booster and mc from Early Classics. They dug up my order this morning and confirmed I was shipped the correct parts and insured they should work together.
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[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by dcramos72

Yes, bought the booster and mc from Early Classics. They dug up my order this morning and confirmed I was shipped the correct parts and insured they should work together.
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If they indeed sent you the correct kit, and components were/are correct, then they may be correct. You have seemed all along that you know quite a bit about mechanics, and my evaluation of your abilities has not changed. But when we think about it, there is quite a bit of new, long, 'empty' tubing necessitated by converting to the dual brake system. When I installed my 'piece at a time' from various donor vehicles, I knew in advance that I would have a bunch of bleeding to do. So, I bought a full gallon to not only bleed the system's big volume, but to also run enough fluid thru so as to end up with all new fluid in my system. A good way to bleed front discs is to open both front bleeders and let it sit for 24-48 hours--this does a gravity bleed.

Now, there is always a chance you were sent a wrong part. To determine if booster and mc are compatible, remove mc from booster using only the 2 nuts--the lines will support the mc, and NO fluid will be lost. (1) Assume you have a deep-hole mc: Cut a 5/16 inch length of approx. 5/16 -3/8 inch diameter wooden rod(must fill most of deep hole mc's diameter) and slowly reattach mc to booster. If there is no interference, either booster rod is too short, or they omitted the spacer, or the rod needs adjusting longer if rod has the adjustable screw-on type(lengthening/shortening) rod. If you encounter any resistance pushing mc up flush with booster, that would indicate matching mc and booster. (2)Assume you have shallow-hole mc, watch when you reattach mc to booster. The booster rod should come to within approx. 0.030 inch of rear of mc's small-dimple piston. Any case: there should be no resistance mating mc to booster, else you would have partial-brakes applied at all times, causing a 'riding the brake pedal' condition.

I'd love to see a pic of your mc's piston-end and a pic of your booster's pushrod-end. I'd be looking for depth of mc-piston(deep-bore vs. shallow dimpled piston); and for booster's rod, whether short, whether it is long enough to reach bottom of deep-bore in mc piston, and/or whether it looks to be adjustable. See my email address in your private message box--IF I can determine how that forum-function works!

[dcramos72]

Bowties,

Sorry for the delayed response. I will take some pics tonight of the mc and booster rod and send your way.

Thanks so much for the info below. I will give this all a shot this weekend!

Thanks!!
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[jj1965]

I had the same issue and it was air in the system. Small leak I didn't notice and it caused the problem. I would bleed again and see if it helps. Does your MC rod have an adjustment. I extended mine until it applied the brakes and backed it off until they didn't rub a little adjustment made alot of difference.