More brake questions....power vs manual

[woodscavenger]

How do the brakes feel after converting from manual drum/drum to manual disc/drum? Does it still require the same force? Are the brakes more responsive even without the power boost? Do I still drive around super defensive because I have Armstrong manual steering and leg-strong manual brakes?

Below is the background for the issue since I have a 62 with manual tranny.

I have scoured the search engine and read tons of posts. I have a 62 with a 350SBC with 4spd manual tranny using the hydraulic clutch. For those that don't know the brake and clutch master cylinder are a mated set. I am going to convert to front disc. I have not decided whether to do a mid 70's crossmember transplant and switch to 5-lug front or use an aftermarket kit and keep the 6-lug front. No matter which way I go I have the main problem of the mated master cylinder. I have looked at Captain Fabs option which looks well engineered but then I am looking at $200 for the bracket then I still need the power booster/MC combo with proportioning valve so that makes another 200-300.

I am contemplated keeping the manual brakes. I can do a Wilwood clutch MC and a generic dual chamber brake MC. I am not sure of the clearances but think I can make it work.

[markeb01]

I swapped mine to manual discs up front and drove it like that for several years. IMO it takes more pedal pressure with the disc brakes, because Bendix drum brakes are self-energizing and disc brakes are not. In simple terms, the friction created by self-energizing drums increases by a cam action in the brake assembly without applying additional pedal pressure. Discs only apply the linear amount of pressure exerted on the brake pedal, so they do require more force to slow the vehicle.

I was fine with this for a while, but with severe spinal deterioration the pressure required to stop the truck finally became more than I could manage so I installed a booster.

Post #37 on my build thread (page 2) shows how I solved the master cylinder issues on my truck. I connects to the factory pedal mechanism so the stock geometry is retained:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=444502&page=2

If you're young and healthy manual discs work just fine. If you're old or have back problems they can become downright painful.

[tincan1966]

IMO brakes and steering are not areas to pinch pennies. if going to the trouble of converting to disc, I'd add the power booster. From what other guys have done and how we do it in our shop, it takes $1000-1200 in parts to do a power disc conversion with quality parts, including all new lines front to back and rebuilding/replacing the rear brakes.

[chevy_mike]

My '65 has manual brakes and a manual trans. I was planning to swap over to power brakes (even bought the Capt Fab bracket) but decided the brakes are working well and is not too hard to push. Since it's a manual trans, I can push in the clutch and then I am only braking the weight of the truck. If I had an auto trans, I would put power brakes as you have to overcome the converter too. That adds more needed pressure to stop.

Just my opinion.

[1963c-10]

Im converting the front of mine to disc (6 lug cpp kit) and going non-power. The master cylinder was only $89.99 new w/the valve. If using capt. fabs bracket, there is plenty of room for a seperate hydraulic clutch and dual master cylinder. Have already mocked mine up. Now just waiting for 2 weekends to come around to do the conversion. Ive already got the new brake lines prebent to make the plumbing a little faster and went w/SS lines.

[likaroc13]

here's an older thread I started...might add a little more insight:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...09#post5462409