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#1 |
Professional Grade
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta
Posts: 7,915
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What tells you that a lifter is bad?
Alo, pulled one of my lifters tonight to see if I can find that knock from my engine on the driver's side, that thing must have been changed out with the engine rebuild... I can still see machining marks on the sides of it... If one of these things is collapsed, or bad, what am I looking for? I'm just gonna assume on of the springs is bad...
Also, how tight is tight enough for the engine to run off those tappets? I know the way to tighten them, start the engine, slowly back off the bolts on them until you hear a ticking, then tighten it slowly till it stops, then give it 3/4 of another turn, but how tight is tight enough to start the engine without damaging it?
__________________
1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lewisville, NC
Posts: 1,836
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I woould turn them down 1/2 a turn rather than 3/4, that seems to work a little better and insures their not overtight. And what exactly are you talking about being too tight to start the engine? The lifter preload? If so don't go more than 3/4 turn, if you have to go further to stop the noise then something is wrong.
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#3 |
Professional Grade
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta
Posts: 7,915
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What I mean is that I have taken my lifters out, so I have loosened those tappet things, how tight should I make them so I can start the engine later on without wrecking them
__________________
1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lewisville, NC
Posts: 1,836
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Oh I see what your talking about, talking about the rockers? Thats the push rod goes into and they rock on a stud and push the valve down? You will actually have to set the valve lash cold before you start the engine since you pulled the lifters. If you don't have a Haynes manual you should get one, it will be able to describe how to set the valve lash cold better than I could over the internet. You can run it like that but I don't trust my ability to get them just right like that so I just do that so the engine will run without harming anything then afterwards I adjust them using the running method.
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#5 |
Insert Witty Text Here
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,415
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Look on swervins's site, www.73-87.com. He has instructions for adjusting the valves:
http://www.73-87.com/garage/valvlash.htm Slonaker |
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#6 |
Professional Grade
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta
Posts: 7,915
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I gotta check that guy's site more often
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__________________
1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) |
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#7 |
Insert Witty Text Here
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,415
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Yep. Every time someone posts a queestion, I just say "look on Swervin's site."
![]() Thanks Mike! Slonaker |
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#8 |
Professional Grade
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta
Posts: 7,915
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My lifters are all convex
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__________________
1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) |
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