Replacing late model body side trim - maybe helpful information

[speedygonzales]

Changed out one side so far. My fingers need a rest before the other side. A few places have the replacement molding like LMC. Classic parts is cheaper but then who isn't cheaper than LMC.

trim

Once you pull ONE piece off, use it as a template to cut the new one. When you do, it will leave 2 foam strips behind. They can be "rolled" off with your fingers.
foam backing
Warm up the trim in the sun (slow) or with a blow dryer if your are not working in hot weather to soften it up. It will cut much easier when warm. Use these to cut it with.
cutters
Hacksaw crinkles the chrome tape. Sharp cutters are the key.

NOTE: Don't cut the roll like I did in 2 equal pieces. Work from the roll one piece at a time. Use tape under the molding before you remove it as a guide to keep it straight. It can sag in the middle but more on that later. Once you have the foam "rolled" off with your fingers, use alcohol to get the glue off. It worked better than goof off and left no residue. Of course wipe the area down with a clean paper towel before you adhere the new one.

When placing the new one, I peeled the two strips on each end just a couple of inches only and placed each end on the side panel lined up with the tape guide and to the adjacent piece. The short ones can peel and go. The long ones need to be taped up in the middle to prevent sag before the tape is removed or use a long straight edge like a level to keep the middle straight.

Last is where the logos like the 1500 are. They are held into the side molding with stems that come off the back of the logo that embed into molding and are gripped with clips. Shown here: clips
These are pushed into the back of the original modeling. I did not see where replacements were available. I was told by body shops guys to not use them and simply cut off the tabs on the back of the new logos and glue them onto the new trim.

I don't trust gluing plastic to rubber (rubbery material) so I drilled the new molding using the old one as a template with a 5/16 drill bit and drill press. Then pushing the old clips into the new slot.

Note: I did not want to chance damaging the door so I pushed the logo into the side molding on a bench before attaching it to the door. Use a lube and push it with your hands. I used a book to spread out the influence of a mallet and it cracked.

One last point, If you notice the end of your old trim, it looks like this: end delamination

LMC has this end sealer
I don't know if it works but it may be worth while to try. I was going to use black silicone like ultra black to prevent weather from causing a problem.

[Tom]

Im just about to order new trim for my 98. I just replaced the front bumper strip so of course the rest doesn't look good lol. Thanks for the write up!

[TennesseeZ]

Nice writeup Speedy, looks like you've done a super job especially with the emblems and all. Are you going to post some pics of the finished job?

[speedygonzales]

I only did the drivers side so far.


Little closer

Excuse the beer DUH.

The new emblem in place


What the old crappy emblem looked like


Incidentally the dealer down the road from me gave me a better price on the 1500 logo GM part number 15551231 then Classic did.

And Tennessee, yours is the size truck I want. Short bed regular cab. I been dieing to get a new Ram with a diesel, 6 inch lift with 37's on it. But alas I don't have $45K to throw around.

[TennesseeZ]

Originally Posted by speedygonzales

I only did the drivers side so far.

That side looks great, probably actually looks better than the assembly line job, I know you put more care in it than a machine!

Originally Posted by speedygonzales

Excuse the beer DUH.

LOL you deserve a reward!

Originally Posted by speedygonzales

The new emblem in place

Thanks for posting how to make the emblem look that good, I had often wondered if it was possible.

Originally Posted by speedygonzales

Incidentally the dealer down the road from me gave me a better price on the 1500 logo GM part number 15551231 then Classic did.

If I'm buying stuff pretty regular from the local dealer I usually get it cheaper than list, and usually cheaper than Classic too, when you figure in shipping and such.

Originally Posted by speedygonzales

And Tennessee, yours is the size truck I want. Short bed regular cab.

I wish it still looked that good. Been sitting for a couple years now while life happened around it. Someday!

[speedygonzales]

Originally Posted by TennesseeZ

I wish it still looked that good. Been sitting for a couple years now while life happened around it. Someday!

I understand the paint thing. Tell you, places like Maaco do a fair job for the price. Could be temporary till you can afford the "great" paint job. Neighbor got is full sized Bronco 2 toned for $500. at a Maaco he frequents. I think it looks good. Swears to do it in the winter when they are hurting for work and cut better deals to keep the shop busy. I'm gona do a 98 Civic I have, the paint is chalky.

I wanted to Line-X under the new strip I just installed. But believe it not the cheapest around here was $525. Ouch I can wait for that much.

I can't understand how someone got their entire truck Line-X'd !!!! Had to be thousands. Their getting over $600 for the bed here. The cheapest dude here explained my sides require more taping and masking then doing just the bed. I don't see it though.

You may not have noticed in the picture, but I got the backs of the mirrors done quite a while ago. The paint chips were bad. The Line-X has held up great. The stuff in my bed faded bad though.

[TennesseeZ]

Originally Posted by speedygonzales

I wanted to Line-X under the new strip I just installed. But believe it not the cheapest around here was $525. Ouch I can wait for that much.

If you have air you could try something like this, and save a little money. Scroll down to the bedliner kits.