Problem after install new dizzy cap

[75 big 10]

Got some free time this morning. Looks like the ahole that installed the engine for my grandad got lazy, he didn't put the wires back in the metal tube and left them loose on the back of the block. He had them zip tied to the plug wires. I remember hearing something like a zip tie braking when I was pulling plug wires. It popped both fuse able links and melted most of the wire. Looks like I am going to build a new wire harness for it. Does anyone know what amp the fuse able links are? Thanks!
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[bowtiemanchevyman]

All i did was re ran the wires to the fender on the drive side and mounted a fuse box. ran the alt. to it instead of the juntion on the fire wall. those two wires feed the fuse panel. heres a pic of wht mine looks like. my alt. go in to that then down to my battery iso. i have two battery. the i hook up the two wires. i just test the truck with different fuse untill i found one that would work. you can see in the othere pic that the juction box just has two wire, one for my heater and the unhood light.

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by 75 big 10

Looks like I am going to build a new wire harness for it. Does anyone know what amp the fuse able links are? Thanks!
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Fusible links should be 4 wire gauge sizes smaller than the wire they're protecting.

I believe the wires you're dealing with in that area will be either 12 or 10 gauge from the factory. So use a 14 ga fusible link wire if it's 10 ga wire. Or a 16 ga fusible link if it's 12 ga wire.

Note that the location is important too ... don't be tempted to re-locate the fusible links up on the other end of the wire where they'll be easier to reach. They need to be on the "source end" of the wire for best protection. Otherwise it leaves a section of wire unprotected ... a potential fire hazard if it ever shorted out again in that area.

Here's some additional info on fusible links you might find helpful --> http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml