Stock Column with SB 350 - Need Advice and Pics

[c6_rob]

Ive got a 350 with a 700R4 in and have the stock column with the box cut off. I have a column saver kit on the end and im not sure how to route the U-Joints or where to locate the Hiem.

The angles seem steep. Im using the stock hole and plan on running the column shifter to my auto. Does anyone have pics of a modified stock column with a 350 installed?

I know I could go aftermarket but Im partial to the stock one.

The headers make the angle weird.


Thanks

[c6_rob]

With the hole right there its gotta come down pretty steep and get under the header and motor mount.

I know someone has done it. Or has a creative way.

Thanks in advance

[OrrieG]

It's been done. This will get you started: http://www.borgeson.com/Images/2012_Catalog.pdf

I expect it will take a couple of double joints, a couple of single joints and 1 or two supports. Start with 1/2 electrical conduit, duct tape and heavy card board or masonite for the supports to mock up a travel path. Measure the angles and determine the joint type you need. Figure out what goes on each end to match the box and steering column and a shaft configruation. Get the parts and start fabricating, paying attention to the orientation of the joints, they need to be synconized. Cut the shafts long and trim them to fit, you can't weld them back together.

[parkwood]

I can show you a few pictures of what's worked for me.. not all are trucks but the steering column and u-joints don't know that..
This one is a '56 chevy truck using a ididit column and three u-joints to clear the headers.

[parkwood]

This one is in a '52 chevy sedan, using the stock column.. might be closer to what you are working with and the frame is not as wide.. as you can see i used three u-joints and a carrier bearing.. if you have to use more than two joints you have to have a support bearing.. also you can see i had to notch the top of the frame a little to clear the double d shaft..

[parkwood]

This one is in a '50 chevy sedan also using the stock column using three joints and support bearing.. also had to notch the top of the frame to clear the shaft..

all these just to show you there is a way to do it, just think it out and take your time

Hope these help you....

[Highsider]

Parkwood has the answers!

[robin58]

Or there's something like: http://wizardsteerclear.com/

That one is pricy, but there are other manufacturers out there with the same concept.

[c6_rob]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

It's been done. This will get you started: http://www.borgeson.com/Images/2012_Catalog.pdf

I expect it will take a couple of double joints, a couple of single joints and 1 or two supports. Start with 1/2 electrical conduit, duct tape and heavy card board or masonite for the supports to mock up a travel path. Measure the angles and determine the joint type you need. Figure out what goes on each end to match the box and steering column and a shaft configruation. Get the parts and start fabricating, paying attention to the orientation of the joints, they need to be synconized. Cut the shafts long and trim them to fit, you can't weld them back together.

Thanks for the link!

[c6_rob]

Parkwood,

Those pics are worth a thousand words, that should help me get the wheels rolling. Once again youve helped. Thanks

[mr48chev]

There are several well done builds with MII front ends or even S-10 frames with simple and clean steering setups on here on AD trucks.

One thing, guys you really need to show photos of the model of truck he is working on or asking about with the modified steering. Showing a later model truck or car's setup really doesn't help much.

Here is how one of our own did it. This thread is off the HAMB because I can never find his build thread on here. Page 28 post 559 shows how he dropped the lower end of the column a bit in the firewall/floorboard to clear the engine/exhaust with the steering http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...568254&page=28

In post 16 he shows how he dropped the hole in the firewall/floor. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=568254

This link shows another guy's truck and his steering linkage.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...568254&page=31 post 620.
There are more and detailed photos and discussion on the next page.

From the mess I had on my firewall from when I first V8'ed the truck and moved the box outboard 1-1/2 inches with the stock column and then after I subframed the truck and hacked on the firewall some more for column clearance I wish I had taken a lesson from some of the mini vans and front wheel drive cars and put a stub column in the stock location and put two U joints under the dash to move where the column exits through the floorboard/firewall to the left a couple of inches. Weld a tube in the firewall for the shaft to exit and be held by bearings and a guy should have a straighter shot to the steering box and have an easier time missing the exhaust and left head of the engine. You could still use the top part of the stock column.

[parkwood]

I don't disagree offen with anyone on here but i must disagree with Mr48 this time.. If someone can see pictures of steering set ups be it in a car or truck and it is close to what they are working on it has to help.. i say this with all due respect to you Mr48 as you may have worked a ton more on these trucks than me..

C6 Rob on your truck like on the '52 suburban i did you may have to move the steering column over just a little to help clear the headers.. the pictures here are of the sub but didn't think they were good enough to post last time.. also by moving the column over you center the column between the gauges for a better look..

rob hope these help and you know how to get a hold of me if you need too.

[c6_rob]

MR 48, Thanks for the links.

Parkwood,

Id debating shifting it to the side like you did. I didnt even notice its not centered!! Im considering but Im looking for the easy route. Im lazy!! If I gotta mod it I will. I like how the bottom swivel is a stiffer support too because the stock one just has that rubber plate.

Below is a pic I found on here from member tylordurben. If I dont shift it and lower is a bit this is what Im going to have to do. What do you all think of these angles?

[robin58]

Those angles are fine if they're double needle bearing ujoints. Single is good up to 35, double up to 70.

E,g, http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/catalo...-p-1-c-12.html

[parkwood]

I agree they'll work, may not look the most pleasing but what ever it takes to get the job done.. take a look at the Flaming river joints.. i like them because of the stuff they are made out of so they don't rust...

But rob you've got a nice truck being built so if you want it to look even better take the time to do the little things like the steering column shift and it'll show in the end... just saying.. don't do like i did in my younger years and get it all done and painted and then look at it and say.. man i with i would have just did that, or moved that over just a little.... my dad use to say to me "why is there never time to do it right the first time but always time to do it over"

wayne

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by parkwood

I don't disagree offen with anyone on here but i must disagree with Mr48 this time.. If someone can see pictures of steering set ups be it in a car or truck and it is close to what they are working on it has to help.. i say this with all due respect to you Mr48 as you may have worked a ton more on these trucks than me..

Agree

[c6_rob]

Originally Posted by parkwood

I agree they'll work, may not look the most pleasing but what ever it takes to get the job done.. take a look at the Flaming river joints.. i like them because of the stuff they are made out of so they don't rust...

But rob you've got a nice truck being built so if you want it to look even better take the time to do the little things like the steering column shift and it'll show in the end... just saying.. don't do like i did in my younger years and get it all done and painted and then look at it and say.. man i with i would have just did that, or moved that over just a little.... my dad use to say to me "why is there never time to do it right the first time but always time to do it over"

wayne

Your right about that.

Another question, what style is better? set screw or pinch type? I dont want it backing off. I was almost considering ditching the set screw and going through bolts, is that overkill??

[mr48chev]

Gents, I was trying to help the man out and keep the answers on topic for an AD GM truck so he could actually see photos of some AD trucks that were done right. Although the photos of the install in the Car show a nicely done job with quality parts I fail to see how that is going to help the man decide exactly where he should route the steering on his AD truck. If I'm wrong with that concept so be it, I've only had 50 years of experience at playing with hot rods and customs and don't know everything.
The main thing is that I really want people to help others who ask questions with the best information they can provide that is on topic for the question asked.

I do know if a guy cuts corners the first time and doesn't do it right or use the right pieces he ends up tearing it apart later to do it right or gives up and sells the vehicle. That is the main reason my truck is down to the bare frame now, I cut way too many corners 30 years ago and now I basically have to start from scratch.

[PurdueSD]

no help, but that is sexy truck. I'm digging your style!

Too bad you don't have a build thread (hint hint)

[c6_rob]

Originally Posted by PurdueSD

no help, but that is sexy truck. I'm digging your style!

Too bad you don't have a build thread (hint hint)

I get the hint, maybe Ill get one going. I got a ton of pics juts got to get them organized and online

[PurdueSD]

For sure! I've a 350&700r4 i need to install soon, a pictoral would be tits.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Gents, I was trying to help the man out and keep the answers on topic for an AD GM truck so he could actually see photos of some AD trucks that were done right. Although the photos of the install in the Car show a nicely done job with quality parts I fail to see how that is going to help the man decide exactly where he should route the steering on his AD truck. If I'm wrong with that concept so be it, I've only had 50 years of experience at playing with hot rods and customs and don't know everything.
The main thing is that I really want people to help others who ask questions with the best information they can provide that is on topic for the question asked.

I do know if a guy cuts corners the first time and doesn't do it right or use the right pieces he ends up tearing it apart later to do it right or gives up and sells the vehicle. That is the main reason my truck is down to the bare frame now, I cut way too many corners 30 years ago and now I basically have to start from scratch.

No one is asking for resumes here. There are a lot of people on this site with experience and have been building cars for years. I find that no matter how long I've been doing something that I can and do still learn new techniques or just a new way of looking at something. That's what this forum is about in my opinion. Not to listen to one or two people who have years of experience, but to have a wealth of knowledge and experience at your finger tips and a choice as to what's the right path for you. People may not like how I do things and may like another person's idea better and that's cool as long as the they got the answer that they were looking for. That's the important thing.

As far as AD trucks vs. non AD trucks. I've worked on both the AD and the TF along with other makes and models and certain things are just basic car building concepts and apply no matter what you are building. Such as installing a column and the problems you may run into. No one can give specifics about any thing when you are not there personally to do the measuring and figuring. Even when we have the same setup there are variation of the how installs were done, but we can we can share ideas and information that may lead people in the right direction.

[Dads Burb]

Parkwood,

I noticed on some of the samples you show that the shafts and joints are pretty close to the exhaust headers. Are there any problems with the heat off the headers affecting the shaft or more importantly the needle bearings in the joints? What's a min clearance do you feel is acceptable?

[solidaxel]

That's the important thing.

As far as AD trucks vs. non AD trucks. I've worked on both the AD and the TF along with other makes and models and certain things are just basic car building concepts and apply no matter what you are building. Such as installing a column and the problems you may run into. No one can give specifics about any thing when you are not there personally to do the measuring and figuring. Even when we have the same setup there are variation of the how installs were done, but we can we can share ideas and information that may lead people in the right direction.[/QUOTE]


AMEN !!!

I have four AD 1/2Ton SNB trucks and all four of them have different routing of the column to the R&P and they all work.

You sit in the behind the wheel in each truck and the front wheels are usually in the same place, so connect the dots , but have fun!!

[_Ogre]

one thing i noticed is that c6rob has a finished truck and is now trying to get his column to work.
for future reference to other builders... mock up everything before you start bodywork.
when i did my steering mock up i realized that by lowering where my column came thru the firewall i would only need 2 u-joints.
granted i have a 58 and it has a wider frame and engine compartment,
but mock up before tear down for most components can save you a lot of rework or do overs.