How to order brake line kit with system like this??

[weever82]

Wanting to order all new stainless brake lines but my setup appears to be different than stock/factory pictures I am seeing online.

I was told I have a 9" Mcgaughys booster/mc up front with power brakes/discs and drums in the rear.

My prop valve is no longer under the master cylinder and is back by the right rear tire.

Are the brake lines still factory into the m/c? Don't think the new kit would match up front without the prop valve up there.

Any thoughts?

I am also wanting to switch out the master cylinder for a chrome one and was curious how to tell the bore size? is it a 1"?

Thanks again for all your guys time, I really appreciate it!

Weev-

[ChevLoRay]

I intend to get my brake lines from Inline Tube. You might send them an email and explain your situation and see what they suggest.

[SS Tim]

It "LOOKS" like they just pulled the existing drum distribution valve out and used a union to join the lines. This eliminated your brake warning lamp switch. The line going into that added rear adjustable prop. valve appears to be the original line all twisted and rusty. Inline Tubes would be the place to start. Adding a 71-72 combination valve should take care of your warning light and the prop. valve need with a stock 71-72 type installation. They make these new along with the lines and brackets. A SS line kit should be no problem for them. www.inlinetube.com

[Lee H]

No offense but no one will be able to match up to that hack job. I second inline tube, I just installed one of their SS kits. Give them a call, they can help you. I would humbly recommend you go back to a stock system that a company spent hundreds of thousands of dollars engineering and perfecting vs trying to mate up with bubbafied mess.
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[weever82]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

It "LOOKS" like they just pulled the existing drum distribution valve out and used a union to join the lines. This eliminated your brake warning lamp switch. The line going into that added rear adjustable prop. valve appears to be the original line all twisted and rusty. Inline Tubes would be the place to start. Adding a 71-72 combination valve should take care of your warning light and the prop. valve need with a stock 71-72 type installation. They make these new along with the lines and brackets. A SS line kit should be no problem for them. www.inlinetube.com

So I could order a disc/drum combo value that goes under the master cylinder and just put in a union or new line where the other one is by the rear tire? Then maybe the factory lines would work for it?

thanks again for all your time

Weev-

[SS Tim]

Well yes, I think. Just so we are on the same page. Get with Inline about the right SS line kit for your truck with a conversion. Also their disc brake 71-72 disc conversion combo valve kit with the short lines and the bracket. http://inlinetube.com/Prop%20Valves/DVD-02.htm Add a full set of new hoses and you should be good to go. Except for the indicator light wiring but that should be a simple thing to sort for you.

[PanelDeland]

I think any of the line companies should be able to help you out.I had no luck with inline.I ordered at a swap meet and half a dozen phne calls and 6 mo later I finally called(took three tries to get thru) and cancelled. YMMV

[M.Lowrie]

Just went through this a few weeks ago with the same master cylinder/booster combo. I purchased a replacement line kit from Inline Tube and "conversion" lines that go from the master to proportioning valve. I then had to re-bend and flare the output lines from the proportioning valve. Here is a picture of it back together.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by weever82

Wanting to order all new stainless brake lines but my setup appears to be different than stock/factory pictures I am seeing online.

I was told I have a 9" Mcgaughys booster/mc up front with power brakes/discs and drums in the rear.

My prop valve is no longer under the master cylinder and is back by the right rear tire.

Are the brake lines still factory into the m/c? Don't think the new kit would match up front without the prop valve up there.

Any thoughts?

I am also wanting to switch out the master cylinder for a chrome one and was curious how to tell the bore size? is it a 1"?

Thanks again for all your guys time, I really appreciate it!

Weev-

Why would u put the valve back by the back tire? weever I know it wasn't u but the PO just can't think of any reason to do this. What good is that for the front brakes, for that matter any of the brakes? I would order all new everything and start over and do it right like the factory had it.

[weever82]

Must have been cheaper that way... I am ordering a full stainless kit with a disc/drum valve for up front and a new master cylinder. That way everything is new and no problems. Can anyone tell me the bore size of the m/c when I order another one? Seems there is two sizes...

Thanks again guys!

Weev-
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[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

Why would u put the valve back by the back tire? weever I know it wasn't u but the PO just can't think of any reason to do this. What good is that for the front brakes, for that matter any of the brakes? I would order all new everything and start over and do it right like the factory had it.

The added prop. valve is doing exactly what it should be doing back there. That is why the brakes work at all. The trick is adjusting it properly. The purpose of adding a prop. valve when doing a drum to front only disc change is to reduce the pressure to the rear brakes. Drums take far less pressure than discs. The stock combination valve in a drum/drum truck is to distribute the fluid and provide a warning circuit. Now with that removed and a dedicated valve in the rear supply lines the brakes can be adjusted to work, even work well. The problem is you have lost the warning switch capability.
By installing a factory combination (prop) valve it will be set close to what the truck needs as every truck has a different load bias and tire size. Then the rear replacement line set, a front line set specific to discs, hoses and the short M/C to combination valve line will round out the installation. If you choose to install a new M/C (disc specific) then there are even less variables.
Can't advise you on M/C bore size but there tech. line should be helpful.

[Andy4639]

That's correct and why put the valve under the truck like that.
The pressure setting is the main thing and to test drive the truck hop out climb under it to adjust it just seems very odd to me.
If they would have bought a stock proportioning valve they would have hooked it up and been done.
I guess that's some peoples custom touches!
I would have a hard time trusting that setup for long.

weever82,
I am ordering a full stainless kit with a disc/drum valve for up front and a new master cylinder

that's what I would do.