New guy with questions!!!!!!!!!

[twangismythang]

Just bought this 68 LWB with opitional 396 and AC, the engine was a rebuild that sat for some time before getting it fired up. Once started it was found that the heads were not touqed down and a valve on the number 1 piston was bent. Removed the engine and found STD bore pistons and a small crack in the number 1 cylinder wall. I am thinking I can bore .30 and be fine, however I am not sure I want to spend the time and MONEY involved in a rebuild.
I am considering going with a small block just to get the truck on the road. I am new to the C-10's having recently converting over from mopar so that i could actually find parts.
My questions are should I scrap the entire project and run, or being that its a 396 truck shoud I stick it out and do the rebuild. Also if I go small block will I have to get new motor mounts, and will the BB bell housing fit a small block?
What would the truck be worth disasembeld?
I will try to post some photos for you guys to see.........

[Graham57a]

I would check the vin on the block and see if it's correct for the truck. If it's the number matching block then it would definitely be worth while to rebuild it and keep it with the original truck. I know that AC is a pretty rare option sin 67-8 and Id imagine AC with a big block even more so. If it's not correct to the truck then I'd say go ahead and put a small block in but you will need new motor mounts. That's where it turns into an opinion thing tho. Some guys will tell you to search for an era correct big block to replace the old one but that's your call.

[jocko]

hey welcome to the board - i agree wholeheartedly with graham - if numbers match -definitely rebuild. If not, then I'd compare rebuild with a replacement big block. If neither of those numbers tickle your fancy, then go sbc. But that'd be last resort since it is an original big block truck. Don't forget to figure in all the brackets, mounts, etc etc you'll need for a sbc swap, incl mounts. But it will still probbaly be cheaper than a bb.

[weaintscared]

I got a better ideal just give me the truck for real cheap and I'll take care of it and you want have to worry with,,, I'll come get it!! Lol
Posted via Mobile Device

[davepl]

Don't ruin your eyesight trying to find the VIN on the block - there isn't one. There's a casting code that will tell you if that block was meant for this year of truck, but beyond that you can't tie that engine to that specific truck. And with the carb and intake gone, you've got few date code to work with (but if you can find a date code on the heads or block that predates the truck assembly date by a reasonable amount, that helps).

I've sold quite a few running 396s (including STD bore) in the $600 range, but with a cracked cylinder wall it's probably not worth a lot.

If you're going to wind up restoring the truck, then I'd sleeve the block and keep the original engine. If it's just a driver, I'd put a different motor in it and keep that original under your workbench somewhere. And if it were me, I'd find a 454 shortblock somewhere, since that's what your accessories and mounts are set up for. If you can get a decent one for under a grand, that's probably cheaper than fixing the old one.

If it's a -super- budget deal, sure, stick a small block in it. But get one that's complete, carb to pan, along with accessories, or you'll spend more on misc conversion parts than you would on fixing or buying a big-block if you're not careful.

[dwarf717]

Drop a mouse in it, and tuck the rat away. If you someday sell the truck, you still have the original motor

[weaintscared]

I still like my suggestion

My build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=468622
Posted via Mobile Device

[Tinkermc]

welcome to the forum I like the idea of a matching numbers truck but as said you can save it. Track auto sells crate motors here for less that 1 grand, money is money and yes you will need new engine mounts, but you could drive in 2 or 3 days with a little work

[twangismythang]

The cast number on the block is 3916323 which is correct for the truck. The cast number on the heads is 3872702, on the block behind the timing gear it reads " pass hi perf x1", can anyone tell me what that indicates?

Also I checked with a machine shop and got quotes on the following

machine crank 85.00
hot tank block replace freeze plugs 100.00
chase main bolt threads, replace cam bearings 125.00
sleeve cylinder 75.00

I have never had any machine work done before, but from what I have been reading the prices seem reasonable. So if I get the machine work done and a gasket set, that should put me in the 500 dollar range. Then I will have to get the heads checked out, and replace the bent valve, and also get a new oil pick up tube. I am thinking it will be somewhere around 800 dollars by the time I get all the fluids.
Thats the low budget option, I was wanting to get a new cam and liter set since I had it all tore down, might as well add a little thump to it while its apart, it is after all a BIG BLOCK!!!

[Graham57a]

What are your plans for the truck? Are you wanting to restore it to factory or bag it and hot rod it? Those are big factors

[twangismythang]

The goal is to drink beer and do burnouts, just wanna put a mild cam in it with 4 barrel carb and headers. The overall goal ya could say would be semi rat rod, just gonna flat black it for now and get rid of those GMC envoy wheels. Keeping it for the most part stock, the truck is really in good shape body wise with little to no rust and is fairly strait. My commute to work is about 5 miles round trip so gas milage is not really an issue. I have a new F 150 so the chevy is just something for me to have fun with. I would like to be able to drive it anywhere if needed, so going overboard with horsepower isnt really the plan. I guess I need to start a build up thread and join in on the fun with you guys.