original key(s) question...

[jocko]

From the factory - did the trucks come with a rectangular ignition key and differently keyed oval door keys? Seems that's how I remember it...

Reason I'm askin - gotta buy new door locks at a minimum - but noticed that some places (Classic truck parts, Truck shop, etc - but not LMC) sell a matched ignition/door lock set, and they come with rectangular keys only.

Assuming that if my first assumption is correct (rect (ign) + oval (door)) that this is just a new convenience item.

If that's the case, I'll probably save a few bucks and get the door set only (don't need ign). But if they DID all come matched and was 1 rectangular GM key only to open everything/start the motor, then I might buy the set.

Thanks!

[SS Tim]

A single square head key was the factory setup. If you are really lucky you might find the key code recorded somewhere in the paperwork. It was originally on the key punch out in the rectangular slot.
Now you could have the doors keyed differently if that is desirable. The glove box lock kit came with an oval head IIRC. But that could likely be keyed to match as well.

[LockDoc]

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Did you try the ignition key in the doors? If you roll the windows down and use a good light you can see the back of the door lock cylinders. Spray them with some PB Blaster or something similar (not WD-40). Also spray some in the key hole. Try the key again. Work the key in and out a few times to get the tumblers freed up. This applies only if the key will fit in the door lock cylinders, someone may have replaced the ignition lock cylinder at some point in time.

Another option you have is to pull the passengers side lock cylinder out and see if there is a code number stamped on it. If there is you can have keys cut from that. The pic below shows a sample of what the code number would look like. You may have to clean the lock case before you can see it.

The glove box locks could have either style key, depending on what the dealer had in stock. As Tim stated they can be re-keyed to match the other locks, with one caveat, the key you want to use has to slide into the glove box lock cylinder. I have modified glove box locks to accept any key or you can buy new sets with the glove box lock keyed the same..

LockDoc

[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

A single square head key was the factory setup. If you are really lucky you might find the key code recorded somewhere in the paperwork. It was originally on the key punch out in the rectangular slot.
Now you could have the doors keyed differently if that is desirable. The glove box lock kit came with an oval head IIRC. But that could likely be keyed to match as well.

So, from the factory, the same key worked the ignition and the door locks? I happen to have the key you mention with the factory code on it. It works the ignition, but not the door lock. I bought a whole new set, that includes the glove box lock, which stock mine doesn't even have a lock. I'm just wondering if I even need to install the new set, or if there's some other way to get the doors working with the key? Do you think maybe it just needs some lube?
Posted via Mobile Device

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Mister-B

So, from the factory, the same key worked the ignition and the door locks? I happen to have the key you mention with the factory code on it. It works the ignition, but not the door lock. I bought a whole new set, that includes the glove box lock, which stock mine doesn't even have a lock. I'm just wondering if I even need to install the new set, or if there's some other way to get the doors working with the key? Do you think maybe it just needs some lube?
Posted via Mobile Device

Yes, Doors and Ignition were keyed the same on all '67-'72 GM trucks.

Read my post above for Lube and test....

LockDoc

[jocko]

Thanks so much for the info all - I guess because my first 72 had oval door keys and rectangle ign keys, I just thought that was the norm. Then it again, it was 1983 and the truck was only 11 years old, so I assumed they hadn't been messed with. But am sure someone could have replaced a lock or so.

My issue is that the truck's driver door was wrecked some time ago, and the new door has a different lockset in it - so, may buy a new matched set. BUT, re-reading the thread reminded me that I do have the original smashed door lying around, so I can pull the thing out from there. But, I do know that in this truck's particular case, the ign key doesn't work in the original passenger door lock, so something is amiss somewheres.

But you answered my big question - if I do end up buying a new set, I'll buy a full matched set - thanks again, I really appreciate it - exactly the info I needed.

[jocko]

ok, now I am confused. Look at this page in the lower right corner - not that LMC is "the" tome of knowledge, most vendors show the ign and door as being two separate style keys(?) This is why I'm a little confused - that and my past experience with a 72 when it wasn't that old. http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=153

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by jocko

ok, now I am confused. Look at this page in the lower right corner - not that LMC is "the" tome of knowledge, most vendors show the ign and door as being two separate style keys(?) This is why I'm a little confused - that and my past experience with a 72 when it wasn't that old. http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=153

These are the same people that show the horn parts in the steering wheel assembled incorrectly... I rest my case...

Here is a key chart right out of my Briggs & Stratton factory manual for the '67-72 GM trucks. If you check the designated letters for each year (ie: "A", "C", "E", & "J", you will see that they are all rectangular head key blanks... EXCEPT.... All 1967, and a few 1968 trucks came from the factory with the small Octagon head keys, so these would be available in the "A" & "C" keyways also.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=246485

Some of the aftermarket locks sold by vendors have unrestricted keyways. What that means is that any key blank can be cut to fit the lock. So if you buy an aftermarket lock set you can probably have oval head keys cut to fit your locks if you want...

LockDoc

[jocko]

Nope, that won't be necessary - just ordered this here set... http://www.classicparts.com/1967-72-...ctinfo/18-154/

I kinda like my glovebox "not" locked, but ordered this set instead of the one without the glovebox tumbler that is only a few bucks less. This way if I ever want to lock it, I don't have to go grabbin more keys. I prefer the single key approach - was pleased to read what was posted and find out that was the way they originally came.

Excellent thread Leon, lots of detail, thanks for linking. And thanks for all the info everyone.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by jocko

Nope, that won't be necessary - just ordered this here set... http://www.classicparts.com/1967-72-...ctinfo/18-154/

I kinda like my glovebox "not" locked, but ordered this set instead of the one without the glovebox tumbler that is only a few bucks less. This way if I ever want to lock it, I don't have to go grabbin more keys. I prefer the single key approach - was pleased to read what was posted and find out that was the way they originally came.

Excellent thread Leon, lots of detail, thanks for linking. And thanks for all the info everyone.

No problem. That set should fix you up.

LockDoc

[chipflyer]

Great stuff Leon! You sir, are handier than a button on a shirt!

Jeff

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by chipflyer

Great stuff Leon! You sir, are handier than a button on a shirt!

Jeff

I don't know if that's good or not Jeff, I had one pop off yesterday..... Luckily I married a good seamstress.

LockDoc