Replacing starter....questions

[Malamute]

I've searched and haven't found the specific info I need.

First of all over the last few weeks the starter labored more and more when starting my truck. Finally it just got to the point it made a grinding sound and then just quit. Don't think it's the solenoid and the battery is new.

I pulled the starter tonight(what a PITA that was with the headers next to it). I had to drop the starter first to even get to the point I could remove the wires and in doing so the connector came off of the wire on the R post. I can strip the wire and get the connector back on, that shouldn't be a problem.

I'm going to get the starter checked in the next few days, if it's bad I think I'm going to replace it with a smaller high torque starter. #1, is the wiring the same for these and #2, will it need to have the shims placed the same as the starter I'm replacing?

I know, long winded but I ran into a few problems I didn't plan on. Thanks.

[Andy4639]

Yes on all accounts. The mini starter at O-Reilly's auto parts is a great starter and it's a stock iteam also.
Mine is over 3 years old and hasn't missed a start yet!


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=4151565

[Tx Firefighter]

I'd be concerned about the newer starter having the small terminal for the yellow wire if the original poster still has points type ignition. It's a non issue if he has HEI of course.

[chevy72pu]

Here is the one I used. All wires connected just like the old one. Used one shim and it's a lock. 350 engine.

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-1319-n...sdr0031-l.aspx

[Malamute]

Still have point, had both wires but I just need to crimp a new connector on the end of one of them. Maybe I'll go with something like chevy72pu posted.

Thanks for the replies.

[TobyArnot]

Originally Posted by chevy72pu

here is the one i used. All wires connected just like the old one. Used one shim and it's a lock. 350 engine.

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-1319-n...sdr0031-l.aspx

2x

[GMCJOE]

I currently am using a starter off of a 98 or 99 Tahoe. It is the same as a mini-starter. I picked mine up from the salvage yard, the Tahoe was wreck and the unknown was there. The solenoid must have got a pretty good jolt. It pulls power and drains my battery in the ignition off position. With this said, I would not go that route (salvage yard) unless they let you take it to Auto-Zone to get it tested before purchasing it. I paid $25 for mine, so I could fix it or just toss it for a new one.

Mine looks just like the link Chevy72pu posted up. That's a good price too. That will probably be my replacement also.

[cdowns]

i would have cleaned up all 4ends of the plus and neg battery cables and where they mounted prior to removing and replacing the starter

[Malamute]

I don't think it was the connection but I thought about that. The starter was grinding/binding and then it just stopped altogether. Headers next to the starter make it fun to get to as well. That's why I'd like to get a smaller motor for when it goes back in, it really was a tough reach.

[arocars]

A heat shield is a good idea if your headers are really close to your starter. Also, not all mini starters are created equal. I bought an inexpensive one and it failed due to heat right away. I bought an expensive race starter and never had another issue.

[oklalawnboy]

Originally Posted by TobyArnot

2x

X3 but be sure you use the new bolts. They are metric diameter with standard threads. With reg/old type starter bolts, it can walk around a bit.

[Malamute]

Thanks for all of the input. I'll take it in Friday to see if it's actually the starter and I'll probably go with the O'Reilly if it is.