front axle lock??

[ratfreak8871]

got my 96 k1500 stuck bad today pss. front wheel fell into a ditch deep enogh the frame bottomed out. drivers rear tire didnt have much weight pushing down. so heres my question. while trying to back out of this mess, i noticed both rear tires spun, as well as the pass. front, but drivers front didnt, seems i would have got out a hell of alot easier if it did. i thought the front diff. was locked when in 4wd, what gives? is it that the pass. front was spinning so easily that it got all the power?

[Stocker]

Nope, the front diff is open (from the factory). Serious off-roaders often install lockers up front.

[ratfreak8871]

thats what i thought but the owners manual says not to use 4wd on dry pavement (thinking because its locked), i messed up once and did it, could tell the tires were scubbing hard on turns. any ideas?

[76k10]

Originally Posted by ratfreak8871

thats what i thought but the owners manual says not to use 4wd on dry pavement (thinking because its locked), i messed up once and did it, could tell the tires were scubbing hard on turns. any ideas?

When turning sharp in 4wd the front and rear driveshafts try to turn at different speeds, causing the tires to chirp.

[ratfreak8871]

DOH!!! That makes sense. Guess I'll have to look into a front locker, aint going thru that ordeal again. Thanks for the fast replies, you guys are great.

[Stocker]

What 76k10 said. When turning, notice the front tires travel farther than the rears. This is easy to see on dirt, mud, or snow -- the front tire tracks take a longer (outside) path compared to the rear tire tracks. Your manual is right, you should only engage 4WD when you're on a slick enough surface to allow the tires to slip instead of binding the drivetrain.

[76k10]

Originally Posted by ratfreak8871

DOH!!! That makes sense. Guess I'll have to look into a front locker, aint going thru that ordeal again. Thanks for the fast replies, you guys are great.

A locker in the front probably wouldn't have gotten your out of that situation. If your truck is laying any significant weight on the frame or axles, you're stuck. A winch or a buddy with another truck is your best chance of getting out.

[ratfreak8871]

unfortunatly all i had was a shovel but i made it thank god

[dieseldawg142]

if its a 96 1/2 ton with the stock 8.25 ifc, your out of luck. no one makes lockers for 88-98 1500s. best you can do is lock-up the rear & go 3 wheeling

[LONGHAIR]

You really don't want a "locker" (like a Detroit locker) in the front. They are harsh enough in the back, and very un-predictable in the front. You are really better off with a clutch-type "posi-traction" unit. They clutches slip enough for non-binding driving and much more "normal" steering.

[Stocker]

^^ Exactly... my "serious off-roaders" above maybe should have been "hardcore off-roaders". I was thinking rock crawlers & air lockers.

[andrewmp6]

If your going to off road it a lot i would do a solid axle swap on it.

[dieseldawg142]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

You really don't want a "locker" (like a Detroit locker) in the front. They are harsh enough in the back, and very un-predictable in the front. You are really better off with a clutch-type "posi-traction" unit. They clutches slip enough for non-binding driving and much more "normal" steering.

if it's the 8.25 ifs, nobody makes a posi trac. or limited slip, for it either. for the price & simplicity, put a detroit in the back & watch your tire pressures. been running detroit's for 30 yrs with no adverse effects at all. only thing you will probably notice is a small clunk shifting between reverse & forward, & incredible traction, so good you will only need 2wd where you needed 4 before. a properly set up detroit will outlast your truck.

[1972RedNeck]

The only thing a locker does for me is let me get stuck even worse.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by 1972RedNeck

The only thing a locker does for me is let me get stuck even worse.

The trick is to go until you are stuck.... then engage the locker and extricate yourself.

[bilfman]

I use a detroit Tru-trac in the front, it acts as an open diff in casual 4 wheelin, such as on roads with snow and ice. Still gives you control under throttle. But if you bind the front end or apply the brake, as in a brake torque, you can lock the front end, works great.

Better then a posi/clutch type diffy, because even with a posi in the situation you described, both wheels probably wouldn't have turned. Mechanical locks are for sure the best in a truck.

[dieseldawg142]

Originally Posted by bilfman

I use a detroit Tru-trac in the front, it acts as an open diff in casual 4 wheelin, such as on roads with snow and ice. Still gives you control under throttle. But if you bind the front end or apply the brake, as in a brake torque, you can lock the front end, works great.

Better then a posi/clutch type diffy, because even with a posi in the situation you described, both wheels probably wouldn't have turned. Mechanical locks are for sure the best in a truck.

a tru-trac is a great unit for a d60, (assuming thats whats in your crew bilfman), but ratfreak has a 96 1/2 ton with no options for any kind of front diff, i think he really needs to concentrate on improving traction to his rear axle, or maybe invest in a winch















his rear axle

[bilfman]

Ahh yes mine is a D60, I didn't realize they don't make them for most diffies.

[dieseldawg142]

they make 'em for pretty much any diff, except the gm 8.25 ifc. my d.driver is a 90 stepside 1/2 ton,same axles, have looked EVERY where, no luck. it's too lite duty, put a detroit in the rear & called it done. put a detroit in my crew, a detroit in my 71 jimmy, one in my 76 k5, another in my 78 3/4 ton- even had one in my 2wd 71 longhorn. price, durability, simplicity, their pretty tough to beat