Sigh, I give up - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Russell · 10-20-2003, 07:35 PM

I can't get this freaking engine to work!! She still backfires through the carb for NO reason at all.

Blue Beard · 10-20-2003, 07:53 PM

What have your tried up to this point?

**old Rusty C10** · 10-20-2003, 07:55 PM

backfire through carb huh? youve checked the lifters youve checked the timing i assume and if i remember correct youve messed with the carbuerator. I trust this is a electronic ignition so there prolly is no condensor in it and if there was it would fire out the back end..check to make sure all the ignition wires are ok and not being screwed up by touching an exhaust manifold and no wiring is getting burned or shorted check your cap and rotor ( a rotor did this to me once it was shooting spark up through its top) check your carb is getting decent gas check the valve clearancs and guides and finally check youve not got plug wires crossed

Russell · 10-20-2003, 07:58 PM

I don't think the wiring is crossed... I've done this like 10 times now... The lifters are excellent, the timing is close enough to keep the engine from backfiring through the carb, the cables look excellent, the distro and coil are good, and there is plenty of gas in the carb.... Not sure about valve clearances, and I dunno what guides are.

MylilBowTie · 10-20-2003, 09:32 PM

Start back at the starting line. Pull #1 sparkplug, bump it over until you get #1 on compression stroke, follow the #1 spark plug wire to the cap, mark the cap tower, pull the cap, see where the rotor is pointing. Should be pointing toward the tower on the cap where #1 is. If not its not set in there right. If that is okay I would move onto testing the coil and module.

What is the timing set at? How did you adjust your lifters? Where is number one on the cap?

Russell · 10-20-2003, 09:35 PM

Dunno what the timing is on it, haven't got it to idle yet. The lifters were not adjusted. I'm gonna do another compression test on it to test my stuck valve theory, If I don't find any problems I'll completely rebuild the entire ignition system with brand new cables as well

low 84 · 10-20-2003, 10:00 PM

will it run for any length of time? like more than a few seconds............. i bet your distirbutor is either 180 out or very retarded

Russell · 10-20-2003, 10:03 PM

I swapped distributers, I'm gonna rebuild the ignition system tommorow incase that is infact the case that I was not on TDC.

It was doing this before I pulled it all apart, so I'm guessing it isn't entirely ignition... If I can get it going a little better than I can adjust my valves to make sure they are in the right position... Then once it is warm I will do my timing... Thats all dependant on me getting it to run on its own...

Slonaker · 10-20-2003, 10:32 PM

Did you adjust the valves like it says on swervin's site? You can do it without starting the engine.

Slonaker

MylilBowTie · 10-20-2003, 10:48 PM

I hope if you did put new lifter in you set the valve lash and preload before you try and start it. You can have all kinda bad things happen if its not set.

Russell · 10-20-2003, 11:40 PM

I didn't put in any new lifters, the old ones were in excellent shape.

Slonaker, I'm gonna do that again tommorow just to make 100% sure that those things are set properly, and also make sure that I am TDC with my tissue, and looking at the valves... I've changed my mind, I am gonna get this beast running, and I am gonna get it running by Thursday night at the very latest.

apstguy · 10-21-2003, 01:44 AM

Carefull with that. Guy I know blew the carb right off his intake doing that.

*1FaastC10* · 10-21-2003, 02:43 AM

get a timing light, i would be that your timing is off.

*1FaastC10* · 10-21-2003, 02:43 AM

oh, and contrary to what Low84 said, if its backfiring out the carb, your timing would be advanced, not retarded. retarded timing would cause it to backfire out the exhaust.

Blue Beard · 10-21-2003, 08:13 AM

Seen strange things happen with the distributor 180 degrees off.....

AirMale · 10-21-2003, 11:33 AM

I just went through the same thing with my NEW Big block. She would idle but as soon as I put a load on her she popped. My cure was that #6 #8 valves were tightened down to much leaving the valves open...nice huh? I could of swore it was ignition but my friend the hotrod guru saved my ass

Set the rockers cold like on Swerves site.

10-20-2003, 07:53 PM	#2
Blue Beard Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Washington State Posts: 8,831	What have your tried up to this point? __________________ 1970 Chev CST 2003 Harley Fatboy 1975 Chevrolet Step Van 1956 Chev Bel Air 1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00 1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00 1978 Silverado 2005 Monte Carlo

10-20-2003, 07:55 PM	#3
old Rusty C10 Robert Olson Transport Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: recent transplant to NC USA Posts: 20,313	backfire through carb huh? youve checked the lifters youve checked the timing i assume and if i remember correct youve messed with the carbuerator. I trust this is a electronic ignition so there prolly is no condensor in it and if there was it would fire out the back end..check to make sure all the ignition wires are ok and not being screwed up by touching an exhaust manifold and no wiring is getting burned or shorted check your cap and rotor ( a rotor did this to me once it was shooting spark up through its top) check your carb is getting decent gas check the valve clearancs and guides and finally check youve not got plug wires crossed __________________ Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!!

10-20-2003, 07:58 PM	#4
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	I don't think the wiring is crossed... I've done this like 10 times now... The lifters are excellent, the timing is close enough to keep the engine from backfiring through the carb, the cables look excellent, the distro and coil are good, and there is plenty of gas in the carb.... Not sure about valve clearances, and I dunno what guides are. __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

10-20-2003, 10:00 PM	#7
low 84 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 2,144	will it run for any length of time? like more than a few seconds............. i bet your distirbutor is either 180 out or very retarded __________________ '51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's

10-20-2003, 10:32 PM	#9
Slonaker Insert Witty Text Here Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 3,415	Did you adjust the valves like it says on swervin's site? You can do it without starting the engine. Slonaker __________________ '86 Chevy C10 (Sold 04/19/13 ) Stock '01 Silverado

10-20-2003, 07:35 PM	#1
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Sigh, I give up I can't get this freaking engine to work!! She still backfires through the carb for NO reason at all. __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

10-20-2003, 09:32 PM	#5
MylilBowTie Right turn Clyde Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 2,911	Start back at the starting line. Pull #1 sparkplug, bump it over until you get #1 on compression stroke, follow the #1 spark plug wire to the cap, mark the cap tower, pull the cap, see where the rotor is pointing. Should be pointing toward the tower on the cap where #1 is. If not its not set in there right. If that is okay I would move onto testing the coil and module. What is the timing set at? How did you adjust your lifters? Where is number one on the cap?

10-20-2003, 09:35 PM	#6
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Dunno what the timing is on it, haven't got it to idle yet. The lifters were not adjusted. I'm gonna do another compression test on it to test my stuck valve theory, If I don't find any problems I'll completely rebuild the entire ignition system with brand new cables as well __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

10-20-2003, 10:03 PM	#8
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	I swapped distributers, I'm gonna rebuild the ignition system tommorow incase that is infact the case that I was not on TDC. It was doing this before I pulled it all apart, so I'm guessing it isn't entirely ignition... If I can get it going a little better than I can adjust my valves to make sure they are in the right position... Then once it is warm I will do my timing... Thats all dependant on me getting it to run on its own... __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

10-20-2003, 10:48 PM	#10
MylilBowTie Right turn Clyde Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 2,911	I hope if you did put new lifter in you set the valve lash and preload before you try and start it. You can have all kinda bad things happen if its not set.

10-20-2003, 11:40 PM	#11
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	I didn't put in any new lifters, the old ones were in excellent shape. Slonaker, I'm gonna do that again tommorow just to make 100% sure that those things are set properly, and also make sure that I am TDC with my tissue, and looking at the valves... I've changed my mind, I am gonna get this beast running, and I am gonna get it running by Thursday night at the very latest. __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

10-21-2003, 01:44 AM	#12
apstguy LED King Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 2,087	Carefull with that. Guy I know blew the carb right off his intake doing that. __________________ Tyler 1985 C10 305 w/ Bowtie OD TH700R4 3.42 LSD 202,000 miles 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 5-speed Stick 2016 Chevy Spark EV Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 Gone: 2008 VW R32

10-21-2003, 02:43 AM	#13
1FaastC10 Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Elkhart, IN Posts: 6,399	get a timing light, i would be that your timing is off.

10-21-2003, 08:13 AM	#15
Blue Beard Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Washington State Posts: 8,831	Seen strange things happen with the distributor 180 degrees off..... __________________ 1970 Chev CST 2003 Harley Fatboy 1975 Chevrolet Step Van 1956 Chev Bel Air 1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00 1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00 1978 Silverado 2005 Monte Carlo

10-21-2003, 11:33 AM	#16
AirMale Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Atlantic City, NJ Posts: 1,073	I just went through the same thing with my NEW Big block. She would idle but as soon as I put a load on her she popped. My cure was that #6 #8 valves were tightened down to much leaving the valves open...nice huh? I could of swore it was ignition but my friend the hotrod guru saved my ass Set the rockers cold like on Swerves site. __________________ 86 SWB 9.0 LITER T-400-OD 4.11 eaton-4/5 drop Best 1/4 12.51 @112mph no traction



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.