Fuel cell info needed

[Steve Cole]

What does your fuel cell/frame rail tank plumbing look like? Specifically, fuel return line, venting lines, etc. I have an aftermarket fuel cell between the frame rails with no plumbing installed yet,(truck was bought as a non running project)
Other than running a fuel line to the pump, and some sort of vent, and a grounding strap, what else is needed? After reading Bruce's build thread, I am more confused now.

Show me your pics! Thanks!
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[Steve Cole]

Ttt. Does someone have a diagram of what a properly vented fuel system
Looks like? My filler neck goes straight up from the tank, thru the bed wood. Total length is only about 4 inches and I don't believe the filler neck is vented. Should it be? Who else has a setup like this and what are you doing?
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[Husker]

Do a search should help.
Ron

[Steve Cole]

Did that. Was hoping for a block diagram or actual pics from other members.
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[Schralper]

some cells have vents, like my aeromotive cell.
-10 feed line @ front, -8 return, pump & sender wiring.
Vents are capped in pic, red cap is where I put the vent line.
I had to make/ install a line w/ a 360* loop in it that extends 1" below bottom of tank to help w/ any fuel slosh & to allow air in when sucking up fuel. If I was making 1000hp I'd use both vents.
If only your cap is vented, you're gonna end up w/ fuel delivery problems.

[Steve Cole]

Thanks for the reply! Two questions: do you have a pic of the line with the 360 in it? I'm having trouble visualizing that and also, what is the return line for? my fuel pump only has an inlet and an outlet.

[Schralper]

Return line is because I've got bypass regulator.
Which seems to be the way to go vs. dead head reg.
vent line, take soft or hard line any make a loop in it between top of tank & where vent line terminates just below bottom of tank. This is outside the tank.
the AL line that goes thru trunk in this pic is the vent, just put a loop in it
http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicl.../photo_06.html

[vin63]

My truck is a '63, but this may help. I'm running a fuel injection type of system that require two returns. In this photo, the left port is my vent to a filter, and the two ports on the right are my returns...all -8 AN. I'm running a -12AN from the cell to the pump and a -10AN supply to the by-pass regulator up front.

[Steve Cole]

Thanks guys, I think I have the idea. I thought that the vent had to be higher than the filler neck?

Vin63... That truck is sic!!!!

[Schralper]

the vent needs to be higher than your FILL level, so if you top off to the filler neck.......

[Steve Cole]

Ahh gotcha.. Thanks for all your help. I haven't seen the top of the tank yet so I don't even know what connections are there.

BTW... do you have a pic of your bypass regulator? Is this so you will have a pressure regulated flow of fuel to the carb?

[vin63]

Thanks. If you're doing a race-type of fuel cell, it's up to you whether you put a loop in the vent line - this was in response to an outdated rule about how long the vent line had to be. Now the rules just state it must be vented to the outside of the vehicle. This is because organizations realized that if enough fuel made its way into the vent line and settled in the loop, it could create all sorts of problems - this is particularly important if you drive the vehicle on the street (corners, sudden stops, etc.). I also run by-pass regulators at the carb with high and low returns, plus the high pressure return at the pump. Here is my dual regulator set up for my carb.

[Schralper]

well not so much "outdated rule" but aeromotive suggested the loop w/ the line terminating 1" below tank to help reduce fuel slosh.
I think if slosh is a problem I'll just toss in some safety foam.
I put a loop in mine just cuz I wanted the practice forming 1/2" hardline.

[vin63]

In my early days of racing, there was an old rule that the vent line had to be at least 24 inches long - with a fuel cell now mounted in the small confines of a trunk, it was space convenient to put a loop in the line. But, when fuel would slosh into the vent line after burnouts and hard braking at the top end, the loop would act like a catch and it would sometimes create a plug of liquid in the bottom of the loop and collapse the fuel cell, starve the engine and/or burnout the electric fuel pump. Just use a large enough vent line and make it long enough to mount to a panel, vented to the outside via a bulkhead fitting with a small filter on the other end.

Also, not sure how mounting the end of the vent line below the tank will reduce slosh of the fuel inside the cell/tank. Only baffling inside the cell/tank with do that.

[Steve Cole]

Thanks guys for all your help but Vin, I must say that your truck is waaaaayy out of my league!
I have a basically stock truck with a slightly built 350 (400-425 hp), a Holley mechanical fuel pump and some sort of aluminum fuel cell in the back. I don't know anything about "by-pass regulators at the carb with high and low returns, plus the high pressure return at the pump".

Based on what I told you about my truck, what would your recommendations be for my setup? Do I need a pressure regulator? a return line? This will be a weekend driver truck. Sorry for my ignorance, this is new territory for me.

[vin63]

Originally Posted by Steve Cole

...I have a basically stock truck with a slightly built 350 (400-425 hp), a Holley mechanical fuel pump and some sort of aluminum fuel cell in the back.

Based on what I told you about my truck, what would your recommendations be for my setup? Do I need a pressure regulator? a return line? This will be a weekend driver truck. Sorry for my ignorance, this is new territory for me.

Oh, no worries...it's better to get it right the first time. What is the output spec of your particular pump? If it puts out between 6-9 psi at less than 130 gallons per hour, you don't need to run a regulator. If you have a race style mechanical pump, you will need to run a regulator before the carb - you can run a deadhead regulator and no bypass. The reason for my bypass system is because I'm running a fuel injection type of pump that produces 48+ psi, so I need to regulate that down for a carburetor application.

[Steve Cole]

Perfect! Thanks for clearing that up for me! Got any more pics of that awesome truck?

[Schralper]

the only way to know if you're getting the fuel ya need is a fuel pressure gauge.
I've got mine mounted on cowl. Found I was sucking to hard on 3/8 line/ OE tank/ vent
w/ mild 350. Bypass reg keeps fuel cooler, no vapor lock. Just requires more line & fittings. With AN that starts to add up.

yea vin I didn't get how the loop & below was gonna make a diff but we'll see....

[Steve Cole]

Hey , you got a pic of that fule pressure gauge setup? I've never seen one mounted to the cowl before.

[el_bole]

Gentlemen great info on this thread...

Apologize if this is answered else where, if so directions please.....

I too have a cell (20 Gallons) that I recieved in a deal but I have no clue as to what size fittings I need....I was going to order a "kit" from Summit but I live in the lovely state of CA with rules up the wazzu so I was unable to have it shipped to me(smog regulations I believe).

Just like Steve Cole I have a mechanical fuel pump on a 283 SBC so not too worried about massive HP lol.....and all the gas needing to be "there" when I put my foot in...

So my question to you all is what size fittings do I need? The red caps on cell say "9x" and I measured the opening of one(all the same size) and it was a little under 1/2"....Again Like Steve forgive my newbieness I am new too at this.....

Thanks

Pics of cell to follow;