Points to HEI help...

[tex_waco_usmc]

I am working on a BB in a 71 and the PO converted to HEI but did it in a very bad way. Is there anyone that can provide a link to the proper way to wire in the HEI distributor so that I can make sure this is done properly?

[MARKDTN]

Easiest way is to replace the entire ignition wire from coil to the firewall bulkhead with a 10ga red wire. The existing wire is a resistance wire, so do not use it. Take the bulkhead off the fuse block, split it, and remove the existing wire and terminal. Either solder the new wire to the old terminal or get a new male "type 56" terminal and put it back. Easy.

[tex_waco_usmc]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

Easiest way is to replace the entire ignition wire from coil to the firewall bulkhead with a 10ga red wire. The existing wire is a resistance wire, so do not use it. Take the bulkhead off the fuse block, split it, and remove the existing wire and terminal. Either solder the new wire to the old terminal or get a new male "type 56" terminal and put it back. Easy.

Do you happen to know which wire on the bulkhead it is? The wiring harness is less than desirable!

[tex_waco_usmc]

Or maybe someone has a good wiring diagram for under the hood they could post up so I can make sure everything is right!
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[69GWC]

I ran mine from the fuse box on the ING fuse terminal then ran it to the HEI.
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[truckster]

If you have a starter solenoid with R and S terminals, you can also run a wire from the R (stands for "run") terminal.

[Shyguy]

I ran a 10 gauge wire from the unfused ignition terminal on the fuse block with an in-line 30 amp fuse in the '71 I had. It seemed to work great that way. I got this idea from some one's post on hear a while back.

[crazy longhorn]

I ran a 10 g wire (ign unfussed in the box), to the HEI.You can also opt for the 30 amp fuse , as mentioned (cant hurt) If you pull off the orig loom, the white/ cloth coated wire is the resistor that you remove, to add the 10 guage HEI wire. You will see that (if original), there should be a yellow wire also hooked to the cloth wire. The yellow hooks to the soleniod, to give full battery power to the ign under cranking . As far as I know , there should not be any voltage from the soleniod, after the engine starts. crazyL

[truckster]

Originally Posted by crazy longhorn

I ran a 10 g wire (ign unfussed in the box), to the HEI.You can also opt for the 30 amp fuse , as mentioned (cant hurt) If you pull off the orig loom, the white/ cloth coated wire is the resistor that you remove, to add the 10 guage HEI wire. You will see that (if original), there should be a yellow wire also hooked to the cloth wire. The yellow hooks to the soleniod, to give full battery power to the ign under cranking . As far as I know , there should not be any voltage from the soleniod, after the engine starts. crazyL

Here's a picture (borrowed from Performance Chevy) that shows the two posts. The "run" post is hot while the engine is running.

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by truckster

Here's a picture (borrowed from Performance Chevy) that shows the two posts. The "run" post is hot while the engine is running.

It looks from the pic, that the terminal is tied to the centerpost (hot running).....you guys can still show this old man a trick or 2 Best of fun, crazyL

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by crazy longhorn

It looks from the pic, that the terminal is tied to the centerpost (hot running).....you guys can still show this old man a trick or 2 Best of fun, crazyL

The R terminal will be hot after the engine starts as long as the resistance wire and the yellow wire are connected. If you run the HEI wire from the R terminal to the bat on the dizzy then you will not get the full 12 volts that it needs to perform satisfactorily. If you take the resistance wire out of the circuit then the R terminal will be hot only when the starter solenoid is engaged and it will then have 12 volts on it. once the engine starts the ignition to the dizzy will revert back to the resistance wire voltage, about 9.8 volts.

Just run the distributor wire from the ign unfused terminal on the fuse panel and 12 gauge is plenty. A fuse is not necessary.

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by tex_waco_usmc

Or maybe someone has a good wiring diagram for under the hood they could post up so I can make sure everything is right!
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Here is the stock diagram, the red arrows indicate the resistance wire that you want to remove.



here is the wire in the firewall block, It is the whitish cloth covered one that was orange/ purple when new.You can remove it and run a new wire or just rune from the Ign unfused on the fuse panel.



Here is the HEI wire if you run it from the firewall block. The old stock wires are gone and the new red wire is in place.

[TobyArnot]

Attachment 1018343

If you look closely at that colorized diagram, Cyls #1 & #2 are crossed on the engine .

[jocko]

I bought a truck with an HEI in it already. Will need to go back and use some of this info to confirm it was done correctly (based on the rest of the truck, I'd be surprised if it was). However, dummy questions for you all related to op thread:

1) did 71-72's with points distribs (i.e. all stock) have a resistor block (the old white block I used to see in older vehicles from the 50's and 60's) in the ignition circuit? Or does the resistance wire that is mentioned above just simply replace that?

2) any additional considerations when going from HEI back to points?? (other than just "do it in reverse"). Will someday restore this truck and prefer to re-install the old stock ignition, warts and all.

Thanks - sorry for my partial hi-jack. Good thread and topic tex_waco_usmc!

[truckster]

The resistance wire took the place of the resistor block. That's really all there is to it; if you go back to points, you just need to either put in a resistance wire or a resistor block (but not both).

[jocko]

thanks truckster! I always wondered about that (most my cars/trucks have been older except for a 72 I had a long time ago - and I couldn't remember if it had the block or not - didn't think it did).

[tex_waco_usmc]

Vettevet,

See this is a perfect example of why this is the best forum on the internet. I asked and received everything I needed to do the job! BTW, just wanted to let you guys know I was able to hear the BB run tonight. I dont have the harness done yet, I just removed the wire on the dizzy and ran it to the positive wire on the battery and it fired off and ran good other than a massive vacuum leak... I appreciate everything!!!!

My next question is this, does anyone have a vacuum diagram for one of these BB trucks?

[VetteVet]

Start a new thread on the vacuum Tex, and you'll get more responses. VV

I just found this pic that may help.

[tex_waco_usmc]

Thanks Vettevet I will!

[slikside]

Subscribed.
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