65 Short Step driver build

[Bomp]

Thats turning into one sweet ride man. Going to keep Watchin

[1enick72]

hanks to a tip from Alan I ordered my front fenders from a local hot rod shop last week. I should pick them up tomorrow or wednesday. I have been held with having the wrong headers. I didn't like the painted headers with the paint pealing and flaking off so I bought polished stainless ones. They looked great on the stand but they would not clear the engine mounts perches. It took a while to get them exchanged but I finally got them. Instead of the polished stainless I now have ceramic coated. I will post some more pictures tomorrow.

[1enick72]

Well it's definately not tomorrow but I finally got the engine bay and front end back together. Got most of my wiring comepleted at least to crank it over but I have found a fuel line leak at the pressure regulator. I'll have time to take it apart tomorrow night, I'm sure it's just an o-ring or something very simple. Here are a couple pictures for now. It took a little work to make some new power steering lines and figure out what to do with radiator hoses. The radiator is 1 3/4" and the engine side they are both 1 1/4". I opted to use the polished stainless pipe with adaptors on the ends that allow you to use most any size.

[Solo2002]

man that looks sweeet

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by 1enick72

I cut off the old sending unit and then found the spot where the new level sensor needed to sit and be level. Clamped it in place and weld a couple spots on each end. The wire is really still like house wire so I ran the extra up the tube and coiled it around. Carful when welding since both parts are very thin, holes in your pick up tube would not be good. I checked mine with air pressure when finished. Here are some more pictures, not sure if they will help much or not.

Do you remember what newer sending unit you used?
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[1enick72]

The sending unit came with my new dash/gauge unit. They are sold on eBay, if you contact the seller you can buy just the sending unit.

[LostMy65]

Thanks,
Who's the seller on ebay?
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[aggie91]

Originally Posted by 1enick72

I'm new at the body and paint scene and was under the understanding that I still had to use another primer. I was told at the paint supply place that after sanding everything to bare metal than spray with epoxy. After the the epoxy primer is on go ahead and start any body work that needs to be done, prime seal and paint. I just used the epoxy primer on mini bike tins I was working on so I could get a feel for how it was to spray. After sitting for a number of days I sanded everything, so I know what you mean about the muscle. I still sprayed with standard primer and blocked again before paint. Is this wrong or do people re-prime because the the epoxy primer is so hard to work?

You can spray paint directly to the epoxy after scuffing it. Most of the time the parts are not "straight" enough with out priming with a high build primer and blocking out. I have been lucky enough a few times to spray my final color on parts with only the epoxy underneath. Your paint supply store gave you good advice and they can be a great resource for you.

By the way, I like the build and your idea to keep it a driver while working on it.
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[1enick72]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Thanks,
Who's the seller on ebay?
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-65-66-CHE...3a2a51&vxp=mtr

[1enick72]

Got my new fenders fitted tonight, what a pain in the A$$. I understand now why everybody hates re-pop parts. Install, check, remove, grind, recheck and repeat. Got my fender extensions sanded down to metal so I can spray them with epoxy primer tomorrow.

I haven't been able to drive it since installing the new LT1. The o ring that connects the fuel pressure regulator to the return line leaks. The o ring kit from GM has been discontinued and they are unavailable from the aftermarket world. After much searching I found the GM kit and it is on the way, can't wait .

[1enick72]

[Solo2002]

Looking good
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