Need advice today for priming wheels, please:

[Lost81c10]

I know this probably need to go in the paint but I need advice soon.

How long and how much protection is primer alone going to be on my wheels? Thanks for your inputs.
I currently have my wheels stripped as shown below, but will not be able to properly paint them for the next two weeks as I have to go out of town tomorrow. The problem is that I need to put the wheels back on my truck as it sits on jack stands now. Needless to say I can’t just put them on without some protection.
Also, I got these three different kinds of primers (pics below), which do you recommend I use to better protect them for the next two weeks. I know I will have to sand them down again and start the project again upon my return but I want the best protection.
If I had the time now to refinish completely, would you recommend one or the other of these three or a totaly different primer? Other recommendations are welcome.
last pic is of the paint and clear that i got to paint them with. i might get the 2k clear on a rattle can as it has the hardner but we'll see.

[Jonboy]

You have them pretty much to metal now. Use the self etch primer first. spray a coat of the high build primer on and let it dry. Scuff it lightly to get the dust nibs out, and paint the wheels with the wheel paint. If you have a couple of hours, you should be able to get it done. I would mark and pull the wheel weight, though.

[ramz]

Check this post out.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=553179

[buffle]

I have been blasting and redoing wheels for many years. I have found that a zinc chromate primer holds up the best. Self etching primers work well , but over time the topcoat paint will pop. My suggestion for everyday driver wheels is the zinc.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Dude those look awsome. I would scotch bright them to make them look like Britisher stainless then clear coat them!
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[Pyrotechnic]

I don't like using rattle cans, but when I do, I use Rustoleum. Stay rust free my friends!

Rustoleum just seems to seal the surface better and last longer than other rattle can paints. Takes forever to dry but it's worth it.

[Lost81c10]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

You have them pretty much to metal now. Use the self etch primer first. spray a coat of the high build primer on and let it dry. Scuff it lightly to get the dust nibs out, and paint the wheels with the wheel paint. If you have a couple of hours, you should be able to get it done. I would mark and pull the wheel weight, though.

thanks for the reply. unfortunately i dont have the time to a complete job as of now beacuse i get out of work at 5 and need to be on the road tomorrow by 7 am and from my experience i usually find a way to over extend the simplest task. thats why i just wanted to shoot some primer on them for now just to cover them up but did not know if it would do the job for two weeks.

[Lost81c10]

Originally Posted by buffle

I have been blasting and redoing wheels for many years. I have found that a zinc chromate primer holds up the best. Self etching primers work well , but over time the topcoat paint will pop. My suggestion for everyday driver wheels is the zinc.

thanks for the info the zinc chromate primer. do you know if it is available in the rattle can form and if so do you have info on where or what brand. i tried doing a quick search but nothing came up by just zinc chromate primer. thanks.

[Lost81c10]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

Dude those look awsome. I would scotch bright them to make them look like Britisher stainless then clear coat them!
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funny you mention that because i did think about it once i cleaned them out and saw how they could look with a little more work, but i dont know how just clear coat alone would hold up compared to etching primer, build primer , paint, and clear. thanks

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Find caliper clear coat and I'm sure it will be great. The biggest issue is if the local tire Shop scratches it off the side. I'm sure three or four coats will work. Main concern of mine would be what happens when the trim rings go on
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[Jonboy]

I am not sure how the etch will hold up by itself, but that may be the most viable of the paint you have. If it was me, I would spray the etch primer, let it dry for about 10-15 minutes, and come back with the wheel paint. Then it should hold up fine.

[Lost81c10]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

Find caliper clear coat and I'm sure it will be great. The biggest issue is if the local tire Shop scratches it off the side. I'm sure three or four coats will work. Main concern of mine would be what happens when the trim rings go on
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In reference to the trim rings, i had to use 80 grit sanding wheel on my grinder to get most of the gouges from the trim on/off. That’s another part as to why i only want to temporarily protect them because i still want to prep the wheel some more before finish paint.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

I would hate to see the trim scratch the paint off.

If your looking for long term if the wheels getting a two stage paint will be more durable and powder coat even more so
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[mrhino]

If they were mine I would spray some SPI epoxy primer on them, and then in 2 weeks when you have time to finish all you would need to do is scuff with a scotchbrite pad and shoot your color and clear. IMHO That would be your best solution for your time constraints and best long term durability. That rattle can paint wont last very long.