1970 C30 resto-mod-oration

[hgs_notes]

I'm guessing you mean the shaft that the steering wheel is on is pulling out and not the whole column. There must be a part missing at the bottom end of the column. I think there is supposed to be a collar or spring clip that holds the bottom. But I also think the upper bearing should hold it in place also. If you take the steering wheel off there should be another nut under there that is over the upper bearing. The whole thing mught be shot and need replaced though.

Now if the whole thing is moving in and out, there are 2 boults under the dash that tighten down to clamp the column to the dash and there is also a small bracket on the firewall under the hood that is bolted to the firewall and has a strap type clamp on it to hold the bottom end of the column.

As for rain leaks, might need to see if the caulking in the drip rail is gone and its rusted out there. Fairly common problem for severely rusted cabs.

Not surprised with the lack of power. That small block may run smooth, but many of them were smog motors swapped in from mid 70's or later trucks and were gutless. Plus its trying to move 2 trucks down the road with a huge aerodynamic profile. It also depends on the axle gearing. Good luck man. I think you're going to need it.

[RatRod68]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

I'm guessing you mean the shaft that the steering wheel is on is pulling out and not the whole column. There must be a part missing at the bottom end of the column. I think there is supposed to be a collar or spring clip that holds the bottom. But I also think the upper bearing should hold it in place also. If you take the steering wheel off there should be another nut under there that is over the upper bearing. The whole thing might be shot and need replaced though.

This is exactly what my problem is. I am debating on going with a tilt auto column from later model, but I don't know which ones will work.

As for rain leaks, might need to see if the caulking in the drip rail is gone and its rusted out there. Fairly common problem for severely rusted cabs.

Got it. I'll check this weekend. I'm hoping to get this fixed ASAP.

Not surprised with the lack of power. That small block may run smooth, but many of them were smog motors swapped in from mid 70's or later trucks and were gutless. Plus its trying to move 2 trucks down the road with a huge aerodynamic profile. It also depends on the axle gearing.

I would say you're correct. The carb looks to be a smog setup that has all been blocked off (with sticks. yes, wooden sticks) and there is an EGR blockoff plate, and the alternator was from a later model.


Good luck man. I think you're going to need it.
meh, it could be worse, I could've paid more

Since my pops does so many restorations on these old trucks, original parts are usually pretty easy to come by, if I don't want show quality stuff. Since this truck will be getting a repower, and a different body, I'm not going to dump a lot of money into those parts of the truck. Want to get it to a safe, dry, warm, comfy, and cool looking work truck. Most of the stuff on this one will be hand-me-downs, but I will focus serious attention to under the skin. The frame, suspension, and steering will be in better shape.

I do have a 465 trans in the 68 C20 that dad took the cab from, so I may snag that and use the one in this truck as a boat anchor.

[RatRod68]

Alright, last night i finally remembered to measure the thing...

Wheelbase is 153ish inches, and the wedge is 15ft long.

Other than that, it has just been sitting. Been working on the Explorer getting it ready for Harlan.

[hgs_notes]

Thanks for the info. I was thinking about this while on the road today. If I build mine to haul a car I think I'll use some large sway bars and air bags to help stabilize it. Rear disc brakes would be a plus too.

[RatRod68]

definitely would need sway bars and airbags would make things real nice. I'll likely go with a late model diesel leaf spring setup and a set of helper bags.

[RatRod68]

finally got the garage workable, so it was time to start wrenching this weekend. The 1 ton hasn't been running for some time now. The reason was unknown, as it ran when i parked it last month. Turned out a bad ground in the dash killed the battery. Put my new battery on (the one on it already belonged to my pops) and the ol pig fired right up. I pulled it up on a pair of oil change ramps to get a good look underneath this thing. The cab is toast. Everything that looks good is only because it is a thick coat of Bondo. Both doors have lots of rust, the floor is toast, along with both inner fenders, fenders, and back of the cab. My dad has an extra 68 cab, which i will likely buy off him to replace this one. I will just use newer style cab lights, rather than the ones on here.

[RatRod68]

Didn't go wheeling this weekend, decided to let the season o out with no breakage. An awesome year for sure. I'm stoked to actually tear into the big truck and get it looking a little more sinister


What i did do this weekend was pretty cool IMO. I started notching the frame in my buddy's 95 Jetta. He is air bagging it and the axle and tierod would hit the frame, so I fixed it. Took a couple pics

Before



After


finishing it up today (Hopefully) and will work on getting further on the c30.

[RatRod68]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Could you post more pics of the wedge bed? My next truck project is an extended wheelbase flatbed and I was thinking of making it a tilt flatbed, but maybe a wedge bed like this would be better. I'm also wondering if it would handle the weight of my Jimmy once it's done. It says its a C-30, but I think it was rebuilt heavier for the lumber company that used it for years.

Hey buddy, are these 19.5's?

[RatRod68]

Well, I finally had some time, and worked on this ol gal. She had been sitting on ramps for about 2 weeks and I was tired of it looking pitiful. First thing that happened was a good pressure washing. All the gunk from underneath finally came off. This thing has/had a SERIOUS fluid leak. I don't know if it is the engine or transmission, or a combination of everything, but holy cow. There was

I then moved on to the shady wiring and replacement of the instrument cluster. I only have a pic of before, but i will take one of the after today.

Here is one more pic of the old cluster...


I had an extra complete factory harness and fuse panel, so i pulled the entire old one out, and went to work. The only problem with the harness was the tail lamp pin was melted. I removed the pin and wiring from the old fuse panel, and replaced the rotten one with it. While redoing everything, I also busted the headlight switch...

Once I finished the under dash harness, I went to the harness that runs along the firewall under the hood. This is where things got interesting... I was using this http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=185856 to do everything, but i noticed there were a few differences in my harness than what was listed. This did help me more than I ever imagined though. I replaced the push button start deal with the correct color wiring and locations, but I still have a few issues that I need to do some more research on.

After getting everything wired, I took the truck back out to my pops. The heater now works, and the blower motor is working as well. The truck starts up with the ignition switch now, and the ciggerette lighter works.

Now for the bad...
Here are the issues I am now trying to figure out

1.) The truck was running fine, then just died. It had fuel, it was cranking over just fine, but wouldn't fire. I checked the wire to the coil (running HEI), and it was connected, but still not firing. I rolled the truck backwards, and popped the clutch, and it fired right up and ran fine for the rest of the trip (about 30-35 miles total, made it 25 before it just died all the sudden)

2.) The headlight switch is now busted, so I dont know if I have head lights, high beams, instrument lights, or parking lamps. All the turn signals work, so I assume once I replace the switch, I will be ok.

3.) The turn signal lights and high beam light on the instrument cluster are on at all times when the truck is on. I have no idea what the heck this is...

4.) No reverse lights. I don't know if they are wired up correctly from the cab to the rear of the truck. I don't know where the wires are supposed to attach at the transmission, so this is another issue I will be researching

5.) yellow wire to starter is not connected. I have no idea where this goes on the starter solenoid, so I haven't hooked it up yet.

6.) Unkown blue wires on the harness with a plug and 2 relays. I am thinking this has to do with A/C, but something else that is going to require some searching.

That wraps up this weekend and all the good and bad that has happened. The transmission/drivetrain is still making those aweful noises, so that is an issue as well, but not wiring related. Likely be taking a break on the gal for a bit though. I have axle swaps and a roll cage to build for the explorer and Ranger, along with body work to do on Nasty. Going to be a busy winter...

[hgs_notes]

I don't know what the tire size is on that truck. I believe they are just stock size 1 ton wheels though. I could have the mother in law check for me. It's in Idaho, I'm in MN.

The problem with your high beam and blinker lights being on might be because the harness you used was for a non-gauge cluster. There is a difference in the wiring harness between them. Your neutral safety switch may be worn. Headlight switches are pretty easy to get. I have about 4-5 extra right now if you need one. The yellow wire to the starter might not be needed. If the truck has an HEI dizzy then you don't need it.

Hope this helps.

[RatRod68]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

I don't know what the tire size is on that truck. I believe they are just stock size 1 ton wheels though. I could have the mother in law check for me. It's in Idaho, I'm in MN.

The problem with your high beam and blinker lights being on might be because the harness you used was for a non-gauge cluster. There is a difference in the wiring harness between them. Your neutral safety switch may be worn. Headlight switches are pretty easy to get. I have about 4-5 extra right now if you need one. The yellow wire to the starter might not be needed. If the truck has an HEI dizzy then you don't need it.

Hope this helps.

No big deal on the wheels. I just like that size of wheel and tire on these trucks. Not too big, not too small. I think the ones on this truck are too small, but i think they are from a 73-91(i think) c/k30

When you say a non-gauge cluster, what does that mean?

Where is the neutral safety switch? I may have not hooked it up...

If you wouldn't mind parting ways with one, I'd be happy to get it from ya. I'd need the rod and the knob as well though. I can paypal you the money as a gift.

It has an HEI Dizzy. My dad moved the truck the other day, and it started right up with no problem. I'm not sure what the issue was on friday.

Thanks so much for the help man. I'm so used to Ford Ranger/Explorer stuff, all this is new to me. I'm picking up on it though!

[hgs_notes]

A non gauge cluster means it just has the 3 holes for speedo, and gas gauge and blank middle. Full gauges are the one that have the gauges along the bottom, oil, temp, etc. The harness is different because a non-gauge cluster has idiot lights. The reason I think you are having this problem is because way back in the day I tried to swap a full gauge cluster into my truck and had similar problems with mine because of the harness differences.

Neutral safety switch has to be hooked up for it to work. Mine is an automatic so it is on the steering column under the dash, on the top side right by the firewall. Not sure where they put it on a manual tranny. If the wires are loose or corroded or the switch is wore or out of adjustment (they adjust side to side) then you might have intermittant problems like you are having. Its a possibility anyway. Since you have an HEI, the yellow wire isn't needed. It was used on the OEM dizzy. I'll PM you for the switch.

[RatRod68]

The harness is from a 72. Did they have the 3 guage cluster in 72? Is there anything I can do to convert the non-guage harness to a guage harness?

[hgs_notes]

The extra gauges were an option for all years. As for changing the harness, maybe. You can pull the wires from the plug into the cluster and rearrange them, which means using a wiring diagram and tracing wires. OR, you find someone, like me for instance, that may have a harness sitting in his garage attic.

[RatRod68]

but i just added and fixed this harness!

[RatRod68]

could i have plugged the instrument cluster plug in upside down?

[hgs_notes]

They only fit one way I think. I'll look at one of my harnesses and write down thw wire color and terminal position so you can compare it.
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[RatRod68]

thanks brother

[RatRod68]

I got some pictures of the ol gal Monday, but forgot to post them.

Here is the new-to-me instrument cluster from Jenn.

[RatRod68]

Got the other cab. It needs a good amount of work as well, but its in better shape than the cab already on. Might start the swap this weekend, depending on weather.

[hgs_notes]

Good deal. You getting it sandblasted to see how good it REALLY is? What the $#%& was that hole in the dash for?

[RatRod68]

i doubt it. i'll likely just weld in new panels for the bad spots and call it good. This truck won't ever be a show truck or anything, so all i really need it to do is be a 10/10 truck. (look good from 10 feet away or 10 mph down the road. lol)

As for the hole, I think the PO before my pops used it for a CD player or something. No clue. I'll just cut the section out of a scrap truck he has and weld it in.