Engine swap

[TCLARK]

I'm replacing my I6 with a V8 in a '72 SWB 2wheel drive. Some people say I have to get V8 frame mounts.I also heard I can use the I6 frame mounts ( drill the bottom hole out ). Are the engine block mounts the same? Thanx for any help !

[brad_man_72]

They are different, you can even mount them on the wrong side. Pretty sure any of the mounts will work just fine. You might have clearance issues if running a hei.
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[RenoKeene]

Might as well use the v8 mounts as they are cheap and plentiful.
Ever go to Cosmo's restaurant in Cookville? My daughter Lindsey is the manager.

[TCLARK]

Originally Posted by RenoKeene

Might as well use the v8 mounts as they are cheap and plentiful.
Ever go to Cosmo's restaurant in Cookville? My daughter Lindsey is the manager.

Just trying to save a dollar or two..........if all it takes is a drill bit and a couple of bolts, I know there are a lot of V8 mounts around or I can order them for $50 or so plus shipping for $30. I drive by Cosmo's every day on the way to work, I tried it maybe once, I use to go there when it was Bud's.

[TCLARK]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

They are different, you can even mount them on the wrong side. Pretty sure any of the mounts will work just fine. You might have clearance issues if running a hei.
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I am running HEI.......may have to switch to small distributor. Is there a clearance issue with the V8 mounts?

[SS Tim]

The stands and mounts are different as is their location on the frame. Here is a link to help get you started. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=442919

Also, if you are runnning a manual trans. with bell housing mounts the crossmember is engine family and location specific.

[TCLARK]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

The stands and mounts are different as is their location on the frame. Here is a link to help get you started. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=442919

Also, if you are runnning a manual trans. with bell housing mounts the crossmember is engine family and location specific.

I am running a manual from the I6....I thought the bellhousing would bolt up with the 350. I have seen the link you sent before. Thanx.

[SS Tim]

Yes, the trans. bellhousing will bolt to the engine. Problem is the I-6 trans. mounts are a little more than 3.8" aft of the V-8 location. The manual trans. crossmembers are application specific (I-6 or SBC or BBC) as are the clutch and shift linkages. If you want to locate the engine in the correct factory position changes and parts are required. If simply getting it to fit cheap is the concern you have a number of issues to deal with as one board member did. He stuffed in a big block then went through three sets of headers that wouldn't fit because the engine was in a non-stock location.

The easiest change over will be to use the V-8 stands in the V-8 location and an automatic transmission. If you must have a manual a tailshaft supported trans. will be easier than duplicating the factory V-8 installation and location.

[Tx Firefighter]

The easiest and cheapest way is to drop it right back in place on the six cylinder stands. It bolts straight in. That leaves your entire driveline where it currently is and won't require moving crossmembers, swapping shift linkage, modifying driveshaft length.

Yes, it's a couple of inches further back than a factory small block would have set, but it works and works well. You can fully use your HEI doing it this way. There will be enough clearance that you can easily fit your hand between the cap and the firewall.

If it causes you heartburn that it's not factory, you're gonna need to drag the transmission and all it's associated stuff forward to bolt it to the small block on the factory small block stands. Your current trans crossmember is riveted in place top and bottom and is a real bugger to get out. You're gonna spend money doing driveshaft mods and such too. You just have to decide if you are OCD enough to go to that trouble to have it factory "correct".

This isn't stuff I've just read about or heard somewhere. It's stuff I have personally done multiple times. If it were my truck, I'd drop it right onto the six cylinder stands. Doing it this way, it's a nice one day job and it's inexpensive. And, I'm one of the most OCD guys on here. The results of doing it the "right" way don't justify the hassle in my eyes.

[1972BackInBlackC10]

what tx firefighter said is true, my 350 is sitting in my truck with the I6 stands it all works, but dont plan on using any valve covers that are taller than factory they wont fit, im not 100 percent on this but i do belive putting your 350 in with the I6 stands will give you more options for headers, i have a set on my truck right now that are for a late 80's camaro when i tried using the v8 stands the headers hit on the crossmember and wouldnt bolt up heres a couple pics of the valve cover and the motor

first pic is of the pass side valve cover with no clearance, driver side wasnt much better, second pics gives you a better idea of how tall they are, last two are the factory valve covers and idea of how the headers fit

[Hubscrub]

i have two v8s sitting in the inline mounts does fine for me, i do run 4wd fan shrouds though because the factory 4wd v8 were mounted back that was originally. the only problem i have is i miss my 6cyl

[TCLARK]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

The easiest and cheapest way is to drop it right back in place on the six cylinder stands. It bolts straight in. That leaves your entire driveline where it currently is and won't require moving crossmembers, swapping shift linkage, modifying driveshaft length.

Yes, it's a couple of inches further back than a factory small block would have set, but it works and works well. You can fully use your HEI doing it this way. There will be enough clearance that you can easily fit your hand between the cap and the firewall.

If it causes you heartburn that it's not factory, you're gonna need to drag the transmission and all it's associated stuff forward to bolt it to the small block on the factory small block stands. Your current trans crossmember is riveted in place top and bottom and is a real bugger to get out. You're gonna spend money doing driveshaft mods and such too. You just have to decide if you are OCD enough to go to that trouble to have it factory "correct".

This isn't stuff I've just read about or heard somewhere. It's stuff I have personally done multiple times. If it were my truck, I'd drop it right onto the six cylinder stands. Doing it this way, it's a nice one day job and it's inexpensive. And, I'm one of the most OCD guys on here. The results of doing it the "right" way don't justify the hassle in my eyes.

Thanx man, that's what I wanted to hear. I'm not worried about factory correct in this thing, it's a '67 GMC/Auto cab & bed on a '72 Chevy/Manual frame. I just had a healthy 350 out of my Blazer and wanted to replace the I6. The 350 w/Quadrajet can't be any harder on gas than this I6 w/Monojet. It should be a fun drive with a car 4speed.