Radiator leak. What are my best options?

[Mister-B]

It isn't much of a leak YET. What is the best option with these trucks. Brand new replacement? Get this one repaired? Junk yard?

What did you end up paying for your suggestion?
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[Ironangel]

I made multiple repairs to my original radiator until I happen to catch "Teeitup" one of parting out venders here at right time when he happened to have a like new 3-core radiator for $100...My truck had a single core originally. The previous owner had soldered a 20-30 degree elbow to the lower outlet...the new radiator didnt have the elbow. My truck has the 350. So I guess I'm saying if you have the $400, buy a new one or, repair the one you have and keep your eyes open for a good deal on new or nearly new one...

[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

I made multiple repairs to my original radiator until I happen to catch "Teeitup" one of parting out venders here at right time when he happened to have a like new 3-core radiator for $100...My truck had a single core originally. The previous owner had soldered a 20-30 degree elbow to the lower outlet...the new radiator didnt have the elbow. My truck has the 350. So I guess I'm saying if you have the $400, buy a new one or, repair the one you have and keep your eyes open for a good deal on new or nearly new one...

$400? I saw a few online brand new for like $165
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[Littletony]

I would by a new one. The last one I bought was a stock replacement 4 row one from Advance for under 200. Or you can buy one from ebay for under 200 like this one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=321046944804

[Tx Firefighter]

Have the thing repaired. Most radiator shops charge 50 bucks for a full clean and rod job as well as repairing leaks. Then you're left with a much better unit than the Chinese stuff you see for the low prices out there.

[special-K]

The radiator situation can take you round and round. Buying new can be the cheapest and easiest way to go...BUT,you end up with a much lower quality part than the original Harrison. It will never last s long as the original. Do you need it to last this long? Does it matter to you that you retain original equipment? I have had them rodded and even re-cored. You can spend more on a re-core than a new radiator,but I have yet to buy a new replacement. I have always had one to have checked and swap or had one that is repairable. I have a very good radiator man who people bring their stiff that there is no replacement for. He is "the man" when it comes to radiators. He has suggested getting a new one to me when looking solely at cost. He has been doubtful a radiator would survive a rodding. If you go ahead then find it's shot you still pay. So,like I said,you can go roundy round. The question is,"Just how corroded is your original radiator and,if it is bad,can you find a better OEM?" If you were doing a job for a customer I'd think you'd tend to go replacement for cost and reduced chance of come-back.If you love your truck and want to keep it as original and high quality as possible you'll repair/replace/rebuild with OEM.

[stsalvage]

Originally Posted by Littletony

I would by a new one. The last one I bought was a stock replacement 4 row one from Advance for under 200. Or you can buy one from ebay for under 200 like this one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=321046944804

with any radiator but alum you really need to do it more then copper and brass is use distill water no menarals just look at your water heart all the white stuff around them copper pipes alum get eaten up in a heart beat and clog it up

[stsalvage]

Originally Posted by special-K

The radiator situation can take you round and round. Buying new can be the cheapest and easiest way to go...BUT,you end up with a much lower quality part than the original Harrison. It will never last s long as the original. Do you need it to last this long? Does it matter to you that you retain original equipment? I have had them rodded and even re-cored. You can spend more on a re-core than a new radiator,but I have yet to buy a new replacement. I have always had one to have checked and swap or had one that is repairable. I have a very good radiator man who people bring their stiff that there is no replacement for. He is "the man" when it comes to radiators. He has suggested getting a new one to me when looking solely at cost. He has been doubtful a radiator would survive a rodding. If you go ahead then find it's shot you still pay. So,like I said,you can go roundy round. The question is,"Just how corroded is your original radiator and,if it is bad,can you find a better OEM?" If you were doing a job for a customer I'd think you'd tend to go replacement for cost and reduced chance of come-back.If you love your truck and want to keep it as original and high quality as possible you'll repair/replace/rebuild with OEM.

this guy knows his parts about 7 years ago i bought 2 Modines 4 core radiators out the door for 200.00 a peace.they where the same quilty as Harrison that made them for GM.For the same radiator today you pay 350 to 400.Even tho you save to day with the alum radiators you end up paying later.My brass and copper radiators hold up really well.they seem to be able to sit long times with out having problems

[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by special-K

The radiator situation can take you round and round. Buying new can be the cheapest and easiest way to go...BUT,you end up with a much lower quality part than the original Harrison. It will never last s long as the original. Do you need it to last this long? Does it matter to you that you retain original equipment? I have had them rodded and even re-cored. You can spend more on a re-core than a new radiator,but I have yet to buy a new replacement. I have always had one to have checked and swap or had one that is repairable. I have a very good radiator man who people bring their stiff that there is no replacement for. He is "the man" when it comes to radiators. He has suggested getting a new one to me when looking solely at cost. He has been doubtful a radiator would survive a rodding. If you go ahead then find it's shot you still pay. So,like I said,you can go roundy round. The question is,"Just how corroded is your original radiator and,if it is bad,can you find a better OEM?" If you were doing a job for a customer I'd think you'd tend to go replacement for cost and reduced chance of come-back.If you love your truck and want to keep it as original and high quality as possible you'll repair/replace/rebuild with OEM.

Good advice. I think I'll stick with a stock radiator. Hell, it's lasted this long. Must be made well.

There ARE exceptions though. The stock windshield washer pump motor on these trucks is garbage. Mine was out when I bought the truck. Bought a 2010 replacement reproduction part off a 71, and it was bad too. The guys here told me they weren't made well, and to get a washer bottle with a motor built in it off an S10. Did that, and it works very well, holds more fluid, and is easy access if the motor goes out
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[special-K]

The problem with the washer pumps on these trucks is not only do they suck,they blow. Seriously,they suck and they blow!
Mounting the pump onto the tank performs much better. I think every truck I've had has had a bad washer pump.