Last minute advice

[SnS C10]

Hey everyone. Tomorrow is the big day as im going to break in my 350 that I completely rebuilt. Its a stock 4 bolt main stock bore 350. Summit k1103 cam, new lifters, rs racing gear drive, performer intake, ported heads, super comp headers, flamethrower hei ignition, q jet carb. going to be using valavoline vr1 racing oil for break in.

My steps for break in. valves have already been adjusted.
Build oil pressure by turning crank drive gear
Install distributor
Fill bowl with gas
Fire it up and adjust timing quickly
Bring to 2000 rpms and flucuate from around 2000 to 2500 for 25 mimutes
Monitor oil pressure and water temp while running
Turn engine off, enjoy the moment and have a beer!

Any other pointers?
Posted via Mobile Device

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by Shaun23a11en

snip
Turn engine off, enjoy the moment and have a beer!

Any other pointers?
Posted via Mobile Device

Don't drink anything crappy like Coors or Bud or Miller.

Seriously, it sounds like you got it nailed. I've done three that way now and all are still up and running. 1989, 2004, and 2010.

Maybe one thing.
I like to leave the radiator cap off and "burp" it while I'm breaking it in.

[SnS C10]

I was gonna ask, do I need to run a thermostat? I put the housing on and remembered I forgot the thermo. No big deal I can take it off but do I need to? Also, with the valvoline vr1, do I need to run a cam break in additive since it already has sufficient levels of zinc in it?
Posted via Mobile Device

[davepl]

Keep a bucket of water and a fire extinguisher nearby. You never know... not to be pessimistic, just safe!

[quick60]

Turn the crank drive gear?

I know you can use a drill and a distributor shaft to turn the oil pump directly that way you are not rotating the crank/piston assembly.

[SnS C10]

Oh sorry quick60, yes I will br turning the oil pump with my drill to build oil pressure. Anyone know about cam additive while using vr1 oil? Thermostat installed or not?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by Shaun23a11en

Hey everyone. Tomorrow is the big day as im going to break in my 350 that I completely rebuilt. Its a stock 4 bolt main stock bore 350. Summit k1103 cam, new lifters, rs racing gear drive, performer intake, ported heads, super comp headers, flamethrower hei ignition, q jet carb. going to be using valavoline vr1 racing oil for break in.

My steps for break in. valves have already been adjusted.
Build oil pressure by turning crank drive gear
Install distributor
Fill bowl with gas
Fire it up and adjust timing quickly
Bring to 2000 rpms and flucuate from around 2000 to 2500 for 25 mimutes
Monitor oil pressure and water temp while running
Turn engine off, enjoy the moment and have a beer!

Any other pointers?
Posted via Mobile Device

I'd leave out the "adjust timing quickly" myself. I like to start them and bring them up to break in speed and then tweak the distributor by ear while it's breaking in to make it run smoothest. After the cam is broke in is when I let the RPM drop and adjust the timing with a light.

As you're holding the 2k RPM, a tweak to-and-fro of the distributor will smooth it out noticeably one way or the other. You'll likely have to adjust your engine speed down a bit once it smooths out and you've found the sweet spot.

Also, myself, as soon as cam break in in complete, I dump the oil and filter for fresh stuff.

[SnS C10]

That sounds like a good idea. I was worried about starting it and letting it idle for a minute setting the timing. Your way sounds much better and safer for the engine
Posted via Mobile Device

[bobs409]

Have a house fan in front of rad incase it tends to over heat during break in. Also, some hearing protection. An engine running at 2k is quite loud even outdoors.

[bk2life]

Originally Posted by Shaun23a11en

using valavoline vr1 racing oil for break in.

Bring to 2000 rpms and flucuate from around 2000 to 2500 for 25 mimutes

id save the good oil for after you dump the "break in oil".. always add extra break in oil/additives, especially on new cam install.

bringin up the RPMs is great, looks like you have everything worked out well.

X2 on the cooling fan in front of the radiator.

finally if you have any type of coated headers id pull them off for the initial cam break in. why? your headers will get red hot and it discolors and or kills that nice shiny silver coating..

[PanelDeland]

I suggest reading thru the cams break in instructions.They should be about what you're planning but you can never be too sure.

[dlh760]

As others have said always run a break in additive when breaking in a new cam. As far as the thermostat goes you can break it in without one and it won't hurt anything may even help it stay a little cooler while breaking in , just make sure you put one in after its broke in for driving purposes. Dan.
Posted via Mobile Device

[SnS C10]

Okay everyone, I fired the beast this morning. It was popping out of the exhaust a carb a little too much so I was forced to shut it down. Rechecked timing, and adjusted and this time it started and ran smooth. I fluctuated rpms from 1800 to 2300 for about 7 minutes and noticed a burning smell. Right thru a plug wire. So I had to shut down for a few minutes. I put another wire on, fired back up and ran it for another 15 minutes. temp got t0 220 with a fan blowing to the radiator. I had a strange oil leak coming from passenger side front of engine. There are two threaded holes to the right of the timing cover, across from harmonic balancer. Oil was leaking from that hole, more when I gave it a lot of gas. So, while running, my oil pressure started at 40 psi and by the time engime was about20 minutes in and 220 degrees , it was 30 psi at 2000 rpms. Im sure it should have been higher but I lost pressure from that threaded hole, not sure what its for? Other than that, engine and gear drive sounded great.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Tx Firefighter]

Put a 3/8-16 by 3/4 inch long bolt in that hole. It's supposed to be plugged by a bolt to keep from leaking oil.
Posted via Mobile Device

[bk2life]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Put a 3/8-16 by 3/4 inch long bolt in that hole. It's supposed to be plugged by a bolt to keep from leaking oil.

yeap X2 on that advice.

thats the hole you can use to hold the fuel pump rod up when changing fuel pumps.

after you ran it, did you shut it off and do anything else?

just curious to how the new motor is doing now

[mixermike]

Your oil pressure is fine. It is always higher on a cold engine and comes down a little as the engine warms up.
Posted via Mobile Device