battery draining- cant figure out why - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

bgbchevy · 03-15-2002, 03:12 PM

My battery has been going dead after every time I drive my truck. The next time I go to start it, the engine wont roll over. I had both the battery and the altenator checked, both were good. The grounds are good, nad the cables are good and tight to the battery. What could be causing my battery to drain so quickly?

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1972 Chevrolet C/20 LWB, BB 402, Tach, Bedside Toolbox, Posi, Factory AC, Factory AM/FM

meathead95 · 03-15-2002, 03:15 PM

if you had your battery checked and its good then its probably your voltage regulator going bad

Longhorn Man · 03-15-2002, 03:18 PM

Yup, they are cheap too.

------------------
'69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man
I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it.
Need to pick up the one ton Longhorn with a PONTIAC 350/350soon.
Thanks every one!

Check out The Longhorn Webite.
If you need a pic posted, E-mail me at longhornmail@yahoo.com
Andy, in Columbus Ohio

71GMC_3/4T · 03-15-2002, 03:18 PM

Pull the + battery cable. Connect a 12V test light between the post and the cable. If it lights up, you have a drain somewhere. Start pulling fuses until you find it. Make sure doors are closed or you will be troubleshooting to the dome light.

bgbchevy · 03-15-2002, 04:15 PM

I just did what 71gmc said, no drains, so That leaves the Voltage Regulator, correct??

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1972 Chevrolet C/20 LWB, BB 402, Tach, Bedside Toolbox, Posi, Factory AC, Factory AM/FM

Longhorn Man · 03-15-2002, 07:28 PM

hmmm, don't sound right to me...
Even if it was the regulater, if it is draining the battery, it would be putting a load, and it woulda showed up on the test light test.
If you did the testing right, I think your battery is shot, or REAL bad connections somewhere.

------------------
'69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man
I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it.
Need to pick up the one ton Longhorn with a PONTIAC 350/350soon.
Thanks every one!

Check out The Longhorn Webite.
If you need a pic posted, E-mail me at longhornmail@yahoo.com
Andy, in Columbus Ohio

ChevyMonkey · 03-15-2002, 10:37 PM

i had the same kinda problem, and we found out the altenator was bad and draining power, no problem we got a new but still no power, and comes to find out the dumb guys at the auto shop werent testing the battery right, so that was bad too, make sure there testing it right b4 u go buy new stuff.

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My 69Chevy C/10 Yee Boo

[This message has been edited by ChevyMonkey (edited March 15, 2002).]

bgbchevy · 03-15-2002, 11:07 PM

I took the test light, grounded it to the negative post and touched the positive cable, did I do the test right???

I've had the battery charged and tested at three different parts stores, all showed that the battery was good. I also had the altenator checked, it to was good. I guess I'll pull the regualtor tommorw unless there is something else I can check?

------------------
1972 Chevrolet C/20 LWB, BB 402, Tach, Bedside Toolbox, Posi, Factory AC, Factory AM/FM

Gordo · 03-15-2002, 11:17 PM

Just to see if it's charging in the truck, connect a volt meter accross the bat posts and take a reading before and after you start the truck. If the bat is reasonably charged up to begin with, you should have readings something like 12.5V before you start and 14.V when it's running. If you don't have a volt meter handy you can touch the center back side of the alt while it's running with a steel item, such as a screw driver, and it should be magnitized while the truck is running, if it is charging ok.

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1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi
Killingworth, Connecticut

03-15-2002, 11:25 PM

disconnet + cable hook clamp of test lite
to the cable,put test lite on the batt + term
if lite comes on you have a draw.
this is when you start pulling fuses one at a time till lite goes out.
take dome lite blub out so you can work with door open.

------------------
72BLUE C10 SWB
86BLUE K10 LWB
87RED S10 SWB
89RED S10 SWB

70c10 · 03-16-2002, 12:02 AM

I just went thru this 2 months ago. It turned out I had 3 problems. The digital clock connection was causing a slight draw constantly. The ground connection on top of passenger side core support needed to be sanded to bare metal. (This was causing my headlights to be dim). Lastly, my "brand new" battery had a dead cell in it. I paid $45 at an auto electric shop to find all this out. When I took my battery to Pep Boys for an even exchange, they tested it and it "passed" but they still gave me a new one. I haven't had a minutes trouble with it since. I hope this helps.

Hooter · 03-16-2002, 02:42 AM

Check the + wire on the starter
my truck had the same sympotms yesterday, id stop the truck and i couldnt start it up agian when it turned out that the bolt holding the wire on the starter had become very loose causing the battery to discharge and the truck not being able to start, luckily i was near a friends house and i fiexed it there

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69 custom camper/cst 10
70 monte carlo
73 chevelle 4 door
deluxe"kermit": no carpet(rubber floor) no floor, no trunk still drives
74 cheyenne super 20 454
77 fully loaded silverado
that my Grandpa gave me
1980 BMW 320i(at least it isnt Japanese)
1984 Buick skyyhwak that i won
1972 Honda ct 90 trailbike

Castlegar B.C.The great white North (Canada Aye!)
Hooter_5@hotmail.com AC/DC RULES!!!
www.castlegar.com

O'l Buck · 03-16-2002, 04:03 AM

I had that problem with my 72, only mine was the ground on the starter, a bunch of oil and dirt keeping it from grounding properly to the block. But if it is actually draining the battery, you might consider your anmmeter(if equipped). That happened on a Dodge(yuck) that my uncle once had. He spent a ton of money on the thing trying to fix it and it was the friggin' ammeter the whole time.

------------------
'72 Chevy 1/2T 4x4 shortbox stepside 350/350auto on '84
ralleys and 31/10.5s

67 Cutlass convertible
330, 3spd stick

90 GMC Jimmy
350/auto
Chad Stephens
Orleans,NE

Duallie · 03-16-2002, 05:06 AM

I went through this same problem on my beater years ago. Still had a slight draw even with all of the fuses pulled. Turned out it was the antique starter solenoid itself was sucking a constant 1/4 amp.
Just my experience.

------------------
Just as if I knew what I was doin'

*racedvl* · 03-16-2002, 10:02 AM

I am by no means an artist!!!!
But I hope this little diagram can help you out.

------------------

http://hometown.aol.com/racedvl/racedvl69index.html

Woodstock,IL.northwest of Chicago

It's not what you buy, it's what you build!!

I did not climb to the top of the food chain, to become a vegetarian.

For some pics of my truck.

69 longhorn · 03-16-2002, 10:07 AM

Damn.....I did mine backwards! I hooked between the neg cable & post.....it lit the light & i found the problem though....

*racedvl* · 03-16-2002, 10:30 AM

It will work either way.

------------------

http://hometown.aol.com/racedvl/racedvl69index.html

Woodstock,IL.northwest of Chicago

It's not what you buy, it's what you build!!

I did not climb to the top of the food chain, to become a vegetarian.

For some pics of my truck.

bgbchevy · 03-16-2002, 04:42 PM

Thanks for all the replies, still haven't been able to check it yet, I've been busy. I was doing the test wrong. SO I'll go and try it again. I'll let yall know the results when I finally find out whats wrong.

Thanks again...
Garrett

Andy4639 · 03-17-2002, 08:48 PM

I would get my old trusted volt meter out and put it on DC and crank the truck up at idle and then put red terminal to postive and black to negative and see if your charging the battery, it should red at least 12volts at idle, and some times 14 if your regulator and battery are in good shape. This will tell you that the regulator is working O.K. because it takes 12 volts to operate, and if your not see over 12 volts your not replensioning the battery while you are driving it.

------------------
Andy
71's Are for ever!!! or 67,68,69,70,72 http://geocities.com/chevy71tpi/main.html

Longhorn Man · 03-17-2002, 08:56 PM

Anything under 12.7 and your not charging. It should charge anywhere from 13.5 to about 14.5 .

------------------
'69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man
I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it.
Need to pick up the one ton Longhorn with a PONTIAC 350/350soon.
Thanks every one!

Check out The Longhorn Webite.
If you need a pic posted, E-mail me at longhornmail@yahoo.com
Andy, in Columbus Ohio

Scott>72-GMC · 01-13-2013, 12:48 AM

Posted via Mobile Device
They also make a bypass connector if u choose to get a new alternator with regulator built in
Posted via Mobile Device

03-15-2002, 03:12 PM	#1
bgbchevy Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: College Station, Texas Posts: 486	battery draining- cant figure out why My battery has been going dead after every time I drive my truck. The next time I go to start it, the engine wont roll over. I had both the battery and the altenator checked, both were good. The grounds are good, nad the cables are good and tight to the battery. What could be causing my battery to drain so quickly? ------------------ 1972 Chevrolet C/20 LWB, BB 402, Tach, Bedside Toolbox, Posi, Factory AC, Factory AM/FM __________________ 1972 Chevrolet C/20 LWB, BB 402, Tach, Bedside Toolbox, Posi, Factory AC, Factory AM/FM, cruise, Dana 60

03-15-2002, 03:15 PM	#2
meathead95 computer illiterate Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Des Moines, IA Posts: 6,440	if you had your battery checked and its good then its probably your voltage regulator going bad __________________ 72 2wd blazer 72 swb 4x4

03-15-2002, 03:18 PM	#4
71GMC_3/4T Weapons Of Construction Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Colorado, USA Posts: 1,095	Pull the + battery cable. Connect a 12V test light between the post and the cable. If it lights up, you have a drain somewhere. Start pulling fuses until you find it. Make sure doors are closed or you will be troubleshooting to the dome light. __________________ 1971 GMC 2500, 402/TH400 4.10 Daily Driver Lafayette, CO

03-15-2002, 04:15 PM	#5
bgbchevy Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: College Station, Texas Posts: 486	I just did what 71gmc said, no drains, so That leaves the Voltage Regulator, correct?? ------------------ 1972 Chevrolet C/20 LWB, BB 402, Tach, Bedside Toolbox, Posi, Factory AC, Factory AM/FM __________________ 1972 Chevrolet C/20 LWB, BB 402, Tach, Bedside Toolbox, Posi, Factory AC, Factory AM/FM, cruise, Dana 60

03-15-2002, 10:37 PM	#7
ChevyMonkey Fords Worst Nightmare Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: odessa,tx Posts: 206	i had the same kinda problem, and we found out the altenator was bad and draining power, no problem we got a new but still no power, and comes to find out the dumb guys at the auto shop werent testing the battery right, so that was bad too, make sure there testing it right b4 u go buy new stuff. ------------------ My 69Chevy C/10 Yee Boo [This message has been edited by ChevyMonkey (edited March 15, 2002).] __________________ My 69Chevy C/10 Yee Boo

03-15-2002, 03:18 PM	#3
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Yup, they are cheap too. ------------------ '69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it. Need to pick up the one ton Longhorn with a PONTIAC 350/350soon. Thanks every one! Check out The Longhorn Webite. If you need a pic posted, E-mail me at longhornmail@yahoo.com Andy, in Columbus Ohio

03-15-2002, 07:28 PM	#6
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	hmmm, don't sound right to me... Even if it was the regulater, if it is draining the battery, it would be putting a load, and it woulda showed up on the test light test. If you did the testing right, I think your battery is shot, or REAL bad connections somewhere. ------------------ '69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it. Need to pick up the one ton Longhorn with a PONTIAC 350/350soon. Thanks every one! Check out The Longhorn Webite. If you need a pic posted, E-mail me at longhornmail@yahoo.com Andy, in Columbus Ohio

03-15-2002, 11:07 PM	#8
bgbchevy Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: College Station, Texas Posts: 486	I took the test light, grounded it to the negative post and touched the positive cable, did I do the test right??? I've had the battery charged and tested at three different parts stores, all showed that the battery was good. I also had the altenator checked, it to was good. I guess I'll pull the regualtor tommorw unless there is something else I can check? ------------------ 1972 Chevrolet C/20 LWB, BB 402, Tach, Bedside Toolbox, Posi, Factory AC, Factory AM/FM __________________ 1972 Chevrolet C/20 LWB, BB 402, Tach, Bedside Toolbox, Posi, Factory AC, Factory AM/FM, cruise, Dana 60

03-15-2002, 11:17 PM	#9
Gordo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Killingworth, CT. USA Posts: 3,378	Just to see if it's charging in the truck, connect a volt meter accross the bat posts and take a reading before and after you start the truck. If the bat is reasonably charged up to begin with, you should have readings something like 12.5V before you start and 14.V when it's running. If you don't have a volt meter handy you can touch the center back side of the alt while it's running with a steel item, such as a screw driver, and it should be magnitized while the truck is running, if it is charging ok. ------------------ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi Killingworth, Connecticut __________________ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.

03-15-2002, 11:25 PM	#10
L&L BLUE 72 Guest Posts: n/a	disconnet + cable hook clamp of test lite to the cable,put test lite on the batt + term if lite comes on you have a draw. this is when you start pulling fuses one at a time till lite goes out. take dome lite blub out so you can work with door open. ------------------ 72BLUE C10 SWB 86BLUE K10 LWB 87RED S10 SWB 89RED S10 SWB

03-16-2002, 12:02 AM	#11
70c10 67-72 Addict! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: The TAX State! Posts: 7,856	I just went thru this 2 months ago. It turned out I had 3 problems. The digital clock connection was causing a slight draw constantly. The ground connection on top of passenger side core support needed to be sanded to bare metal. (This was causing my headlights to be dim). Lastly, my "brand new" battery had a dead cell in it. I paid $45 at an auto electric shop to find all this out. When I took my battery to Pep Boys for an even exchange, they tested it and it "passed" but they still gave me a new one. I haven't had a minutes trouble with it since. I hope this helps. __________________ Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads

03-16-2002, 02:42 AM	#12
Hooter My other Love Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Castlegar B.C. Canada Posts: 4,085	Check the + wire on the starter my truck had the same sympotms yesterday, id stop the truck and i couldnt start it up agian when it turned out that the bolt holding the wire on the starter had become very loose causing the battery to discharge and the truck not being able to start, luckily i was near a friends house and i fiexed it there ------------------ 69 custom camper/cst 10 70 monte carlo 73 chevelle 4 door deluxe"kermit": no carpet(rubber floor) no floor, no trunk still drives 74 cheyenne super 20 454 77 fully loaded silverado that my Grandpa gave me 1980 BMW 320i(at least it isnt Japanese) 1984 Buick skyyhwak that i won 1972 Honda ct 90 trailbike Castlegar B.C.The great white North (Canada Aye!) Hooter_5@hotmail.com AC/DC RULES!!! www.castlegar.com __________________ Castlegar B.C.The great white North (Canada Eh!) Hooter_5@hotmail.com First generation Monte Carlo club pictures of my life

03-16-2002, 04:03 AM	#13
O'l Buck Recovering Truck Driver Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Orleans, NE USA Posts: 1,883	I had that problem with my 72, only mine was the ground on the starter, a bunch of oil and dirt keeping it from grounding properly to the block. But if it is actually draining the battery, you might consider your anmmeter(if equipped). That happened on a Dodge(yuck) that my uncle once had. He spent a ton of money on the thing trying to fix it and it was the friggin' ammeter the whole time. ------------------ '72 Chevy 1/2T 4x4 shortbox stepside 350/350auto on '84 ralleys and 31/10.5s 67 Cutlass convertible 330, 3spd stick 90 GMC Jimmy 350/auto Chad Stephens Orleans,NE __________________ 67 K-20 350, SM465, Eaton rear, 4.56 no spin option 00 Dodge 2500 4x4, 24V cummins, 5 speed Chad South Central Nebraska

03-16-2002, 05:06 AM	#14
Duallie Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Nikiski, Alaska Posts: 477	I went through this same problem on my beater years ago. Still had a slight draw even with all of the fuses pulled. Turned out it was the antique starter solenoid itself was sucking a constant 1/4 amp. Just my experience. ------------------ Just as if I knew what I was doin' __________________ Just as if I knew what I was doin'

03-16-2002, 10:02 AM	#15
racedvl Account Suspended Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Woodstock, IL Posts: 7,020	I am by no means an artist!!!! But I hope this little diagram can help you out. ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/racedvl/racedvl69index.html Woodstock,IL.northwest of Chicago It's not what you buy, it's what you build!! I did not climb to the top of the food chain, to become a vegetarian. For some pics of my truck.



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03-16-2002, 10:07 AM	#16
69 longhorn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: rock island,il,usa Posts: 5,382	Damn.....I did mine backwards! I hooked between the neg cable & post.....it lit the light & i found the problem though.... __________________ http://community.webshots.com/user/hotrodhorn

03-16-2002, 10:30 AM	#17
racedvl Account Suspended Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Woodstock, IL Posts: 7,020	It will work either way. ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/racedvl/racedvl69index.html Woodstock,IL.northwest of Chicago It's not what you buy, it's what you build!! I did not climb to the top of the food chain, to become a vegetarian. For some pics of my truck.

03-16-2002, 04:42 PM	#18
bgbchevy Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: College Station, Texas Posts: 486	Thanks for all the replies, still haven't been able to check it yet, I've been busy. I was doing the test wrong. SO I'll go and try it again. I'll let yall know the results when I finally find out whats wrong. Thanks again... Garrett __________________ 1972 Chevrolet C/20 LWB, BB 402, Tach, Bedside Toolbox, Posi, Factory AC, Factory AM/FM, cruise, Dana 60

03-17-2002, 08:48 PM	#19
Andy4639 Old member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Liberty, & Garden City S.C. , U.S. Posts: 19,945	I would get my old trusted volt meter out and put it on DC and crank the truck up at idle and then put red terminal to postive and black to negative and see if your charging the battery, it should red at least 12volts at idle, and some times 14 if your regulator and battery are in good shape. This will tell you that the regulator is working O.K. because it takes 12 volts to operate, and if your not see over 12 volts your not replensioning the battery while you are driving it. ------------------ Andy 71's Are for ever!!! or 67,68,69,70,72 http://geocities.com/chevy71tpi/main.html __________________ 1971 LWB Custom, 6.0LS & 4L80E, Speedhut.com GPS speedometer & gauges with A/C. 20" Boss 338's Grey wheels 4 wheel disc brakes. My Driver Seeing the USA in a 71 Upstate SC GM Truck Club 2013,14 and 2016 Hot Rod Pour Tour http://upstategmtrucks.com/ Get out and drive the truck this summer and have some fun! It sucks not being able to hear! LWB trucks rule, if you don't think so measure your SWB! After talking to tech support at Air Lift I have found out that the kit I need is 60811. Per the measurements I gave them. Ride height of truck inside spring and inside diameter of springs.

03-17-2002, 08:56 PM	#20
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Anything under 12.7 and your not charging. It should charge anywhere from 13.5 to about 14.5 . ------------------ '69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it. Need to pick up the one ton Longhorn with a PONTIAC 350/350soon. Thanks every one! Check out The Longhorn Webite. If you need a pic posted, E-mail me at longhornmail@yahoo.com Andy, in Columbus Ohio

01-13-2013, 12:48 AM	#21
Scott>72-GMC Registered User Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: New providence ia Posts: 1,018	Re: battery draining- cant figure out why Posted via Mobile Device They also make a bypass connector if u choose to get a new alternator with regulator built in Posted via Mobile Device Attached Images

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