thinking of manual steering

[motornut]

I've run cars bypassed but not the trucks
she wouldn't be able to even move them lol

[kustomrust82]

Originally Posted by badpontiacs

Correct me if im wrong, i have read that 67-72 manual boxes are the same as ours. I read that you need the box and pitman arm for the swap. Yes?
I have a power box with the hoses looped together, it sucks doing stopped turns but rolling is a breeze.

Heres some pictures of mine JUMBO2.

yes it does work, i have one on my truck from a 70 you have to use the 70 pitman arm, my 82 swb with a 55 chevy steering wheel turn good with the big wheel. i also have manual brakes they work fine as well, race truck!

[jumbo2]

Originally Posted by kustomrust82

yes it does work, i have one on my truck from a 70 you have to use the 70 pitman arm, my 82 swb with a 55 chevy steering wheel turn good with the big wheel. i also have manual brakes they work fine as well, race truck!

Wicked info guys thamks very much . after a day in the pick and pull I didnt see any 80 up manual steering trucks but using a 70's box with arm sould be easy'r to find

[jumbo2]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

Why?

Everything is still mechanically attached as it was. All you would have done is eliminated the boost and are using a steering ratio that is not optimized for that particular package.

I've been driving my Chevelle this way for 35 years. I would ask you to be careful about using the "s" word.... (ie, "safe")

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/fea...olet_chevelle/

K

To each there own , I was told by a box rebuilder that the man and power boxes work diffrent and I believed him . What you do with your own life is non of my business , who you voted for is non of my business , how you drive your car is non of my business , not hear to judge just share info

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Been driving like this for almost four years and the fluid still comes out clean every time I flush. The manual box does work diff sinc it has Fluid passes inside. I keep my lines hooked up but no belt. That way fluid can move freely and no hydro lock happens. The manual box will have more turns lock to lock so its easier to drive. My old mans superbee has a 16:1 manual box. Now that thing is real hard
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[jumbo2]

Originally Posted by kustomrust82

yes it does work, i have one on my truck from a 70 you have to use the 70 pitman arm, my 82 swb with a 55 chevy steering wheel turn good with the big wheel. i also have manual brakes they work fine as well, race truck!

How did you convert to manual brakes ? I would also live to know cause that was next lol seems like your a couple steps ahead of me
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[KQQL IT]

Master cylinder from a bare bones truck.
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[Pyrotechnic]

Doesn't really make sense to ditch the hydraulic assist if you aren't even going to reap the rewards of the removing the pump and the weight savings that come with it.

One very effective way to save weight and get a little more steering feel is to ditch the stock steering wheel. The stock wheel weighs about 10 pounds (checked on my bathroom scale) whereas the smaller Grant wood grip wheel I put in is about 2 pounds. I couldn't believe how heavy the stock wheel was, but it's a beast. Weight reduction was not my intention at first, the stock wheel was oozing some kind of goo out of the plastic and needed to be replaced.

The stock wheel has a heavy steel core and is covered in a ton of rubber and plastic. This turns it into a giant dampener. With the Grant wheel, I can feel more of what is being transmitted through the steering column.

Point is, I've reduced the weight of the steering system by a good 8 pounds and I still have hydraulic assist.

[cory d]

sticky wheel. mine is like that too. cleaned it then gave up after a while. dotn wash your hands after working on the truck then drive it, the grease helps

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Originally Posted by Pyrotechnic

Doesn't really make sense to ditch the hydraulic assist if you aren't even going to reap the rewards of the removing the pump and the weight savings that come with it.

One very effective way to save weight and get a little more steering feel is to ditch the stock steering wheel. The stock wheel weighs about 10 pounds (checked on my bathroom scale) whereas the smaller Grant wood grip wheel I put in is about 2 pounds. I couldn't believe how heavy the stock wheel was, but it's a beast. Weight reduction was not my intention at first, the stock wheel was oozing some kind of goo out of the plastic and needed to be replaced.

The stock wheel has a heavy steel core and is covered in a ton of rubber and plastic. This turns it into a giant dampener. With the Grant wheel, I can feel more of what is being transmitted through the steering column.

Point is, I've reduced the weight of the steering system by a good 8 pounds and I still have hydraulic assist.

I wasn't doing it for weight savings so much as to actually feel when the wheels get loose around a corner. But I'm going to run hydroboost as well so that I can keep going bigger in cams and just run a bypass steering box. The pump and such are only ten lbs as well.
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[cory d]

i did ti for fun then also calle dit weight savings. like when honda kids remove the 5 pound rear seats

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Haha
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[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by jumbo2

What you do with your own life is non of my business , who you voted for is non of my business , how you drive your car is non of my business , not hear to judge just share info

Actually, it might be. In the interest of sharing info, I ask you to read my intro thread (linked below) at your leisure.

K

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by jumbo2

What you do with your own life is non of my business , who you voted for is non of my business , how you drive your car is non of my business , not hear to judge just share info

Sorry , my post timed out. Let me try again, with "more words" this time.

My "business" might actually be relevant to your interests. I had hoped to do this without introductory comments but you seem new here so these might be necessary at this point.

1) I am helpful by nature. The internet does not always convey intent accurately so I hope you will filter my responses with this desire to be helpful in mind.

2) If you noticed my signature, I actually designed and built your truck and approximately 3.5 million very much like it. I hope that lends some credence (more so than "some guy at the auto parts store") to my responses and also hope that you can read my introductory/build thread, for your enjoyment http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 especially if you love these trucks and are intrigued with how they were built.

3) I also have been drag racing a combination very similar to yours for 35 years (big block Chevy and full frame combination). I believe there is a great amount of technology transfer between the two platforms (one of my buddies raced a naturally aspirated big block shortbox and was/is running 10.70s with it) and hope that some of my insights might be helpful to you. If you check out my Chevelle thread there may be some tricks or changes that catch your eye (Chevelle has gone 9.80s on motor). http://www.popularhotrodding.com/fea...olet_chevelle/

There. That's more what I had in mind but did not have the time or wisdom to post originally.

Now - perhaps I missed it, but how fast are you planning to go with your truck (target ET)?

K