Project "Booger"

[americanthunder]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Get a new one. Dorman makes them, bout $50 brand new. They crack a lot. Work looks GREAT! I keep my old paint respirators, they work great for filtering dust, even after the charcoal is dead. They seal up good and stay on your face. You can get em for $15 at HF.
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I was looking at these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C17GVI/ref=ox...
Know of a better place to get them? Looks like my cost is about 80 bucks with shipping. Thanks!

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by americanthunder

I was looking at these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Know of a better place to get them? Looks like my cost is about 80 bucks with shipping. Thanks!

rockauto.com, and I think you can get 'em without the AIR ports.

[americanthunder]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Awesome progress and looking great!! You're blazing through the yuckiest part. A little late now, but a couple of cardboard boxes flattened out covers a lot of ground. A blanket works good when there's water involved. Lets the water through but catches the crap like a coffee filter. If you're fond of that cordless drill I'd buy a cheapo corded drill for the wire wheel. Drills don't like side load. Look for the RPM on the nameplate and get the fastest one you can find. A grinder actually works best but it's a little savage. NO LOOSE CLOTHING! You can also expect yourself as well as by-standers to be tattered with little poison darts Safety glasses DEFINATELY required for anyone in the area. If you've got a shop-dog, put him in the back yard when the grinder comes out.
x3 on the manifold. I've seen cast welded with some sucsess (heat, weld, peen, heat, weld, peen, ...) but I've always brazed. I've also seen a lot of small block manifolds that don't wanna bolt up real good. Usually you can heat them (I've thrown one on the fire!) and use welding gloves while you get the bolts started.

Great information! Initially I did have a blanket underneath BUT using a red nozzle at 3000psi the stuff is even all over the house and as far away as 50'. Next time I'll build a containment!

Originally Posted by Low Elco

rockauto.com, and I think you can get 'em without the AIR ports.

RockAuto seems to list the identical part numbers for my year. Here is the link to the product on RA http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...211&cc=1029833 Noob Question...What are the AIR ports? For the emissions related air injection like my mid 80's Blazer? I dont believe mine had such a thing on it. Thanks again for your help

[jlsanborn]

Elco's right on the muny with the twist knot type. That's what I brush my teeth with. Wifey gets pissed cuz the grinder is so noisy in the bathroom tho. The GFI in there don't like it much either.

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Elco's right on the muny with the twist knot type. That's what I brush my teeth with. Wifey gets pissed cuz the grinder is so noisy in the bathroom tho. The GFI in there don't like it much either.

Must.... Not.... Make..... Joke....

AIR ports are those little screw in plug thingys. You don't need em.
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[americanthunder]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Must.... Not.... Make..... Joke....

AIR ports are those little screw in plug thingys. You don't need em.
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So they are the holes for the air pump injection..Im not seeing on dormans web site that dorman makes any others than part#674-199 and 674-201 and both of those have the holes. Called RockAuto and they said the same thing. Do you have a part# for the ones without the holes? Maybe im just not asking the right question

[jlsanborn]

Makes sense that they'd machine them for the AIR and supply plugs. That way they cover all the applications with one part number. Check the classifieds on this site. I did a quick search and my first hit was.....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...hlight=ramhorn