TF Disk Brake and Frame Mounted Master Cylinder Kits

[spinned]

I have done some searching here and there doesn't seem to be a good thread on converting a TF 2nd series truck to disk brakes using vendor kits.

I am interested in converting the front end to disk. For me that means a disk brake kit for the front using GM 5-lug and a frame mounted master cylinder kit.

I guess there are varying quality for both kits. Can any of you speak from experience on quality, ease of installation and performance of these kits and where is the best place to get them?

[Russell Ashley]

I have installed both kits on my truck and I'm happy with them. I ordered both kits from Tuckers but they came directly from CPP, which is where I think most vendors get them from. I used the booster and m/c kit that uses the original brake pedal and it fit good. The installation is not difficult and requires no fabrication other than drilling some holes in the frame. The disc brake upgrade is straight forward and didn't require any fab work. I have a twelve bolt rear with drums. I totally rebuilt the brake system including all new lines, shoes, wheel cylinders, drums, springs, ETC while I was upgrading and my truck stops great with very little pedal pressure.

[GMtrucknut!!]

[GMtrucknut!!]

I also found the CPP kit very easy to install and everything fit well ,but their service on a proportioning valve that I had that was bad well not so much! Love their product but without CPPJEFF helping out with my problem I would have never recommended them again !!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Spinned,
What Russell is telling you is right on from everything I've read. The only thing I would add is to ask if you intend to install a power booster or not, because it can be done either way. On my '55.2 I will use a manual disc/drum setup cause my 283 has too radical a cam to develop the 16-18" of vacuum needed to run a booster. I don't know what your engine plans are but this MIGHT be a consideration.
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[spinned]

I don't know what your engine plans are but this MIGHT be a consideration.

Good point. I have a 60's era Chevelle 350 in my truck. I dont think it has been modified. Do you think that will generate enough vacuum?

[Dan in Pasadena]

If its stock it ought to. Have you heard it run? If its got a rumpety-rump idle then that's your clue to measure the vacuum.
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[Rude Dude]

Dan I have used vacum boosters with a radical cam all you need is a resevior for vacum or vacuum pump, it is up to your preference

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1464/overview/

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Spinned,
What Russell is telling you is right on from everything I've read. The only thing I would add is to ask if you intend to install a power booster or not, because it can be done either way. On my '55.2 I will use a manual disc/drum setup cause my 283 has too radical a cam to develop the 16-18" of vacuum needed to run a booster. I don't know what your engine plans are but this MIGHT be a consideration.
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[NEWFISHER]

Ghostrider or reids52@aol.com builds and ships the brackets for $50

[Dan in Pasadena]

Frickin awesome! Rude Dude rides to the rescue again - and for so cheap too! But seriously, this is the first I've ever heard of that but it makes perfect sense. I thought my only option was manual front discs, a hydro vac system or swapping out the cam - which I do intend to do eventually.

Where/how is this accumulator plumbed in?

Originally Posted by Rude Dude

Dan I have used vacum boosters with a radical cam all you need is a resevior for vacum or vacuum pump, it is up to your preference

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1464/overview/

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[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, so I WAS out of town when I responded earlier. Now that I'm home I searched Summit for vacuum pumps and found several.

Question: Which would I want to use? The cannister is passive and the pump is 12v activtated so I tend to assume it would be more reliable.

Can I assume these devices (either of them) would be plumbed in BETWEEN the vacuum source (intake manifold port) and the frame mounted booster? On the pump, its obviously connected to power but what "tells it" when to pump and when to stop?

[Rude Dude]

Try the cannister first many car's used them, here is how they are plumped.
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...70-99590-1.pdf

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Ok, so I WAS out of town when I responded earlier. Now that I'm home I searched Summit for vacuum pumps and found several.

Question: Which would I want to use? The cannister is passive and the pump is 12v activtated so I tend to assume it would be more reliable.

Can I assume these devices (either of them) would be plumbed in BETWEEN the vacuum source (intake manifold port) and the frame mounted booster? On the pump, its obviously connected to power but what "tells it" when to pump and when to stop?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Rudy. Sounds like having a pump AND a canister would be the most reliable setup. Not "cheap" exactly, but not as much a hassle or cost as a hydro vac installation would be on my "no holes for power steering pump brackets" camel hump heads would be.
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